<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?>
<rss version="2.0"
	xmlns:content="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/content/"
	xmlns:wfw="http://wellformedweb.org/CommentAPI/"
	xmlns:dc="http://purl.org/dc/elements/1.1/"
	xmlns:atom="http://www.w3.org/2005/Atom"
	xmlns:sy="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/syndication/"
	xmlns:slash="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/slash/"
	>

<channel>
	<title>Metal Roofing Contractors : Metal Roofing Cost</title>
	<atom:link href="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/feed/" rel="self" type="application/rss+xml" />
	<link>http://metal-roofing-contractors.com</link>
	<description>Metal Roofing Contractors :  Metal Roofing Cost : Metal Roofing Systems Explained 601 750 2274</description>
	<lastBuildDate>Sun, 19 May 2013 11:07:02 +0000</lastBuildDate>
	<language>en-US</language>
	<sy:updatePeriod>hourly</sy:updatePeriod>
	<sy:updateFrequency>1</sy:updateFrequency>
	<generator>http://wordpress.org/?v=3.5.1</generator>
		<item>
		<title>Your Questions About Roofs</title>
		<link>http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/your-questions-about-roofs-37/</link>
		<comments>http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/your-questions-about-roofs-37/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sun, 19 May 2013 11:07:02 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>bob mcalister</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Topics]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/your-questions-about-roofs-37/</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Sharon asks… How do I get rid of squirls between the roof and the celing? the made a hole next [...]]]></description>
				<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div class="pocd-faq">
<div class="question">
<div class="asker">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/plugins/pageonecontentdynamo/headshots/Sharon.png" width="80" height="80" /></p>
<p class="name">Sharon asks…</p>
</div>
<div class="pocd-content">
<h2>How do I get rid of squirls between the roof and the celing?</h2>
<p>the made a hole next to the gutter and got in between the celing and the roof (where the insulation is) I  got afew of those rodent sonic repelers that  ARE SUPOSE TO DRIVE THEM CRAZY BUT I STILL HEAR  THEM .I can not use chemicals since i run a day care and is dangerous for the kids&#8230;.PLEASE HELLLLLP!</p>
</div>
</div>
<p><span id="more-1251"></span>
<div class="answer">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/bob.png" /></p>
<h3>bob mcalister answers:</h3>
<p class="pocd-content">The outside of the building I live in has siding made of cedar planks (its an old building) and every year we get squirrels setting up a nest in the walls after they chew through the outer wall.</p>
<p>We have to call a professional pest control company and they come out and mount traps near the hole to catch the squirrels then they patch the hole. You&#8217;ll most likely have to do the same.</p>
<p>Until you can get the money together to call one of these pest control companies you may need to move the sonic devices into the roof space. I think the reason they&#8217;re not working is because the sounds aren&#8217;t penetrating through the drywall along your ceiling into the roof space, so the squirrels don&#8217;t hear it. The sounds are bouncing off the walls and ceilings of the rooms in your house, which works against rodents completely (i.e. Have made holes through the inner drywall and can creep around at night or while no one is there) inside the house. </p>
<p>Try placing the sonic devices in the roof space. There should be an access panel in the ceiling (in a hallway or garage) that leads to the space. Your home may not have a formal attic (with floors and storage room) but the access panal is supposed to be somewhere in the place so that homeowners and contracters can install new isulation and/or run additional electrical lines from above without having to tear up the walls.</p>
<p>Like I said we gets squirrels in our building all the time and I talk with the guys that come out to set up the traps. I mentioned to the guy that when I ride my bike down the street the squirrels I see in the road instead or running away they actually run toward me and across my path like they have a deathwish and want to get run over. He told me that squirrels have a natural instinct to first charge at a threat before turning tail and running off. They&#8217;re even more aggressive if the threat approaches their nest, and he once had a squirrel jump right at his face the moment he stuck his head into an attic to get at a nest.</p>
<p>So BEFORE you open the access panel in the ceiling keep one of the devices ON and in your hand when you get up on the ladder to reach for the panel. Open it just a crack (about 1/2 an inch) and put the device close to it so that the sound starts going into the roof space, with any luck you&#8217;ll hear scampering away from you and the panel as they try to get away from the sound. Raise the panel slowly until you can get the device just inside. Make sure the device&#8217;s speaker is face up, so that the sound waves can bounce off the roof and reverberate through as much of the space as possible. If the speaker is placed facing a particular direction it may not be very effective, and will be completely useless if it falls (or is knocked over) and the speaker is directed into the insulation. </p>
<p>This might be enough to get the squirrels out, then all you have to do is patch the hole in the outer wall, but before you do that you might want to have someone crawl up there with a flashlight and make sure that there&#8217;s not a set of babies that are too young to move on their own. One of the nest we had actually had 4 baby squirrels that needed to be pulled out of the wall because they were only a few weeks old and only the mother was able to leave the nest and get caught in the traps.</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="pocd-faq">
<div class="question">
<div class="asker">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/plugins/pageonecontentdynamo/headshots/Sandy.png" width="80" height="80" /></p>
<p class="name">Sandy asks…</p>
</div>
<div class="pocd-content">
<h2>How much to add a pitch roof on 800 sq ft home?</h2>
<p>My flat roof isn&#8217;t inclined at all, so water pools up there and leaks into the ceiling and then into my dining room. How much would it be to change the home into a pitch roofed home? Should I just claim it on the homeowners insurance?</p>
</div>
</div>
<p><!--more-->
<div class="answer">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/bob.png" /></p>
<h3>bob mcalister answers:</h3>
<p class="pocd-content">Sorry, but we simply can&#8217;t give you an estimate because none of us has nearly enough information.<br />
It depends on where you live.<br />
It depends on what kind of roof you want to have added.</p>
<p>A simple pitched roof built on trusses, with conventional asphalt shingles, will be the fastest and cheapest to add.</p>
<p>You can probably claim the leak damage on your insurance and then use that money to help pay for a different roof system.  It won&#8217;t pay all of it, though.<br />
Consider making sure the new roof is well insulated, and add insulation on top of the existing flat roof.  That would make you eligible for the energy efficiency improvement tax credit (talk to your accountant to get the details)</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="pocd-faq">
<div class="question">
<div class="asker">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/plugins/pageonecontentdynamo/headshots/Lizzie.png" width="80" height="80" /></p>
<p class="name">Lizzie asks…</p>
</div>
<div class="pocd-content">
<h2>How can I properly ventilate a hip roof with continuous soffit vents, but no ridge vent?</h2>
<p>I have a hip roof with a continuous soffit vent on three sides, but no ridge vent.  It has an 8-foot ridge that runs back into a gable roof that runs perpendicular to it.  There is about 10&#8242; of ridge vent in the gable roof, as well as a gable vent on one end.  Is this providing enough ventilation for the 16&#8242;x24&#8242; hip roof?</p>
</div>
</div>
<p><!--more-->
<div class="answer">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/bob.png" /></p>
<h3>bob mcalister answers:</h3>
<p class="pocd-content">You need to install 2 roof vents spaced equally to ventilate the attic.</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="pocd-faq">
<div class="question">
<div class="asker">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/plugins/pageonecontentdynamo/headshots/Charles.png" width="80" height="80" /></p>
<p class="name">Charles asks…</p>
</div>
<div class="pocd-content">
<h2>What kind of paint works best on roof shingles?</h2>
<p>I want to paint my roof white, so that it reflects the summer heat.  I understand this can make a whopping big difference in energy costs when you live in a southern climate!  (I&#8217;m at 36 degrees north latitude.)  </p>
<p>I actually have two questions:   what kind of paint would work best?    And what is the best method for applying this paint?  </p>
<p>Any other roof painting tips are welcome!</p>
</div>
</div>
<p><!--more-->
<div class="answer">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/bob.png" /></p>
<h3>bob mcalister answers:</h3>
<p class="pocd-content">It is a waste of time to paint your roof white. I have lived in houses with both white and black roofs in Southeast  Texas and there is no difference in the bill.  For best results insulate the house better</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="pocd-faq">
<div class="question">
<div class="asker">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/plugins/pageonecontentdynamo/headshots/Donna.png" width="80" height="80" /></p>
<p class="name">Donna asks…</p>
</div>
<div class="pocd-content">
<h2>I have brown mildew spots all over the roof lining of an old restored car?</h2>
<p>The roof lining is white but not sure whether faux or real leather. Don&#8217;t know how I can get it off. I want to get rid of the brown stains and kill the mould spores too. Help.</p>
</div>
</div>
<p><!--more-->
<div class="answer">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/bob.png" /></p>
<h3>bob mcalister answers:</h3>
<p class="pocd-content">You can kill the mold and mold spores with white vinegar.  Just wipe the roof lining down with white vinegar (undiluted) on a paper towel.  Allow to dry completely.</p>
<p>After the vinegar has dried, &#8220;paint&#8221; the entire lining with white liquid shoe polish.  You might have to actually pour the shoe polish into a small bowl and use a foam paint brush to do this, since liquid shoe polish applicators won&#8217;t work if held upside down.  </p>
<p>Paint two coats, if needed, but allow the first coat to completely dry before applying a second coat.</p>
<p>Your roof lining will look brand, spanking new.</p>
<p>Make sure you don&#8217;t allow the car to get damp inside again, tho, or the mildew will return.</p>
<p>.</p>
</div>
</div>
<p><small>Powered by Yahoo! Answers</small></p>
]]></content:encoded>
			<wfw:commentRss>http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/your-questions-about-roofs-37/feed/</wfw:commentRss>
		<slash:comments>0</slash:comments>
		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Your Questions About Roofing</title>
		<link>http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/your-questions-about-roofing-5/</link>
		<comments>http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/your-questions-about-roofing-5/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sat, 18 May 2013 11:07:03 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>bob mcalister</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Topics]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/your-questions-about-roofing-5/</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Charles asks… What should I know before roofing a 10&#215;10 storage shed? I have never attempted roofing before. Is there [...]]]></description>
				<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div class="pocd-faq">
<div class="question">
<div class="asker">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/plugins/pageonecontentdynamo/headshots/Charles.png" width="80" height="80" /></p>
<p class="name">Charles asks…</p>
</div>
<div class="pocd-content">
<h2>What should I know before roofing a 10&#215;10 storage shed?</h2>
<p>I have never attempted <strong>roofing</strong> before. Is there anything I need to know before starting? I plan to use a Timberland shingle like our house.</p>
</div>
</div>
<p><span id="more-1250"></span>
<div class="answer">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/bob.png" /></p>
<h3>bob mcalister answers:</h3>
<p class="pocd-content">Start off with your 15# felt.  Run a row across the bottom of the roof and continue up the roof. Overlap each row 6 inches. You don&#8217;t need to worry about caulking or anything.  If water gets underneath your roofing material, you&#8217;ve got a leak anyway. Just do a good job with the installation and don&#8217;t worry about the underlayment (unless it&#8217;s damaged or wet or soft). Your first row of shingles will require two layers making sure you offset the seams. Work your way up the roof making sure the shingle edges on ajoining rows don&#8217;t come within 12 &#8221; of each other (Stagger the seams). The starter row should overhang 1-1/2 inches off the plywood. The sides should overhang the same (assuming steel facia). When you get to the top, don&#8217;t use the field shingles for the ridge row. You need to order the proper amount of ridge row. This is a thinner shingle that will bend easier than the field shingle. The very last ridge shingle will have two exposed nails that you can caulk if you&#8217;d like.<br />
Points that need to be cleared up:<br />
1. Your shingles are Timberline, not Timberland<br />
2. You dont need 2 squares, you need 3 bundles( 1 square) plus one more bundle for the waste for a total of 4 bundles of field shingles. See if you can find an open bundle of ridge accessories as you won&#8217;t need a whole bundle.<br />
3. Don&#8217;t caulk anything except any vents that you install.<br />
4. Ice and Water shield doesnt stop ice dams from forming, it helps stop leaks once they do form. Since your not heating your shed, you won&#8217;t need Ice and Water shield.<br />
5. Your shingles don&#8217;t have tabs&#8230;Four nails per shingle.</p>
<p>Good Luck and do not fall !!</p>
<p>Mike</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="pocd-faq">
<div class="question">
<div class="asker">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/plugins/pageonecontentdynamo/headshots/Ruth.png" width="80" height="80" /></p>
<p class="name">Ruth asks…</p>
</div>
<div class="pocd-content">
<h2>What is average cost of roofing insurance in indiana?</h2>
<p>I am thinking of starting my own <strong>roofing</strong> business, but I would like to know what I should be expecting to pay in insurance before I start doing my budget. I have little experience in finance and would like to carefully scrutinize the numbers before getting too invested. Before contacting agencies, I would like to have some idea of what they charge.</p>
<p>Thanks!</p>
</div>
</div>
<p><!--more-->
<div class="answer">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/bob.png" /></p>
<h3>bob mcalister answers:</h3>
<p class="pocd-content">General liability for a one man shop, is probably going  to run you around $1500 a year, if you do NO flat roofs or hot tar.  </p>
<p>Workers comp for roofers, runs 25% of payroll, or $2500, whichever is HIGHER. </p>
<p>Both of those are AUDITABLE, so be sure to compare both the premium, AND the actual rate they are charging you.</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="pocd-faq">
<div class="question">
<div class="asker">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/plugins/pageonecontentdynamo/headshots/George.png" width="80" height="80" /></p>
<p class="name">George asks…</p>
</div>
<div class="pocd-content">
<h2>How do you cut asphault shingle roofing?</h2>
<p>Im curious what is the best way to cut asphault shingle <strong>roofing</strong>? Im using a utility knife right now but its not coming out even! I need to know what gives it that perfect cut with no imperfections!<br />
Thank you everybody! Im doing a job today in central california if this rain lets up! have a good day!</p>
</div>
</div>
<p><!--more-->
<div class="answer">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/bob.png" /></p>
<h3>bob mcalister answers:</h3>
<p class="pocd-content">A straight edge helps. They also sell knives made for roofing material. Cut from the back side. I am sure you are going through a lot of utility blades.</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="pocd-faq">
<div class="question">
<div class="asker">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/plugins/pageonecontentdynamo/headshots/Paul.png" width="80" height="80" /></p>
<p class="name">Paul asks…</p>
</div>
<div class="pocd-content">
<h2>How do I go about starting a roofing company?</h2>
<p>My boyfriend has done <strong>roofing</strong> this past year and found that it is something that he really enjoys doing. The thing is he wants to be his own boss, how do we make it happen&#8230;&#8230;</p>
</div>
</div>
<p><!--more-->
<div class="answer">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/bob.png" /></p>
<h3>bob mcalister answers:</h3>
<p class="pocd-content">Go to http://www.score.org/ and in the upper left hand corner, enter your zip code.  On the next screen, you will get information on the nearest SCORE chapter.  Call them and arrange for a free meeting with a SCORE counselor to discuss starting your roofing company..</p>
<p>SCORE is a nonprofit association dedicated to entrepreneur education and the formation, growth and success of small business nationwide. SCORE is a resource partner with the U.S. Small Business Administration (SBA).</p>
<p>SCORE has 389 chapters in locations throughout the United States and its territories, with 10,500 volunteers nationwide. Both working and retired executives and business owners donate time and expertise as business counselors.</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="pocd-faq">
<div class="question">
<div class="asker">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/plugins/pageonecontentdynamo/headshots/James.png" width="80" height="80" /></p>
<p class="name">James asks…</p>
</div>
<div class="pocd-content">
<h2>Can I use roofing nails to hang drywall?</h2>
<p>I have a <strong>roofing</strong> nail gun and a box of long <strong>roofing</strong> nails.  Are they much different than drywall nails?</p>
</div>
</div>
<p><!--more-->
<div class="answer">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/bob.png" /></p>
<h3>bob mcalister answers:</h3>
<p class="pocd-content">Yes, they are very different &#8211; Drywall Nails are thin and threaded to prevent it from pulling out. Roofing nails have a large head to prevent liquid from getting into the nail hole, since they lay flat there is little chance to pull out &#8211; so less precaution is taken to prevent this. Drywall nails carries the weight of the drywall, in the least. Roofing nails don&#8217;t.<br />
Roofing nails are designed to be covered by a thick coat of tar(not water soluable). Drywall nails are disigned to be covered by a thin coat of plaster ( water soluable).<br />
I would not use roofing nails to hang Drywall. Plus don&#8217;t forget the obvious one, Drywall has a thickness that most roofing nails do not have to support.<br />
In the end, you will be expecting roofing nails to support a weight that they were not designed to do and lack the threads necessary to do this. With this larger head it is also probable they will crush the drywall in that area ( cause cracks) promoting weakness of strength. It will not hold long at all. The strength of the roofing nail head comes from the thick coat on top of it &#8211; applying pressure to hold  This is not the same concept to hold drywall.</p>
</div>
</div>
<p><small>Powered by Yahoo! Answers</small></p>
]]></content:encoded>
			<wfw:commentRss>http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/your-questions-about-roofing-5/feed/</wfw:commentRss>
		<slash:comments>0</slash:comments>
		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Your Questions About Metal Roofing Colors</title>
		<link>http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/your-questions-about-metal-roofing-colors-6/</link>
		<comments>http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/your-questions-about-metal-roofing-colors-6/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 17 May 2013 11:07:03 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>bob mcalister</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Topics]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/your-questions-about-metal-roofing-colors-6/</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Betty asks… Anyone know what is the best paint to paint a galvanized metal roof &#8230;? that has been painted [...]]]></description>
				<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div class="pocd-faq">
<div class="question">
<div class="asker">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/plugins/pageonecontentdynamo/headshots/Betty.png" width="80" height="80" /></p>
<p class="name">Betty asks…</p>
</div>
<div class="pocd-content">
<h2>Anyone know what is the best paint to paint a galvanized metal roof &#8230;?</h2>
<p>that has been painted before and has a bit of rust? I think some of the &#8216;galvanized&#8217; chemical has worn off and I&#8217;m not sure what kind of primer and paint is the best.</p>
</div>
</div>
<p><span id="more-1249"></span>
<div class="answer">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/bob.png" /></p>
<h3>bob mcalister answers:</h3>
<p class="pocd-content">You&#8217;ve got to get all the old paint and primer off first. A good stripper will do that. The next step is to sand the metal with 120 grit wet or dry paper, keeping the surface wet while sanding (no electric sander here&#8212;BZZZZZZZTTTT). When all the rust is gone, wash and dry the metal and immediately put on a coat of primer for whatever finish you will be using (oil based for oil paint or laquer for laquer based paint. After that dries, then you put on you color coats, preferably several thin coats. If it looks like you need a heavier coat when you painting, don&#8217;t do it now, put t on after it dries. You may want to put on 2 or 3 light coats and then scuff the surface with 200+ grit finishing paper then lay on some more color coats. Sand again with even finer grade sandpaper and then rub it out with compound. After you&#8217;re done this step, put a coat of car wax or polish on it.That should give you a nice finish on your project that will protect it for years to come. Good luck.</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="pocd-faq">
<div class="question">
<div class="asker">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/plugins/pageonecontentdynamo/headshots/Thomas.png" width="80" height="80" /></p>
<p class="name">Thomas asks…</p>
</div>
<div class="pocd-content">
<h2>Where is adelaide cane i find a cheap paint job?</h2>
<p>I have a Ford Festiva, the body of the car had some dents and scratches. The car itself is is a very faded old silvery gray colour but the replaces door and boot (hatch) are a very new clean white. Is there anywhere in adelaide that can spray the other parts of the car white?</p>
</div>
</div>
<p><!--more-->
<div class="answer">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/bob.png" /></p>
<h3>bob mcalister answers:</h3>
<p class="pocd-content">My daughter has a &#8217;92 Honda Accord that has less than 100,000 miles on it but we paid next to nothing for so this was the perfect idea solution to her black weather faded car. There were some spots on the hood that were dented and we were unable to locate a hood replacement. I tool care of those areas with bondo and then primer. There were also some areas on the roof that bare metal showed and those got some primer. The problem is that the areas that had primer put on are dull and the rest of the vehicle is shiny. I have only done one coat so perhaps this will remedy itself? Everything else looks amazing&#8230;.no orange peel, etc. I just wish I could figure out what to do with the primer area. Any suggestions from anyone??<br />
I have a Ford Festiva, the body of the car had some dents and scratches. The car itself is is a very faded old silvery gray colour but the replaces door and boot (hatch) are a very new clean white. Is there</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="pocd-faq">
<div class="question">
<div class="asker">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/plugins/pageonecontentdynamo/headshots/Donald.png" width="80" height="80" /></p>
<p class="name">Donald asks…</p>
</div>
<div class="pocd-content">
<h2>What color shutters would look best on my home?</h2>
<p>I have a white cottage style house with a front porch. I am thinking either black, tan, blue or red. Not green. What would look best?</p>
</div>
</div>
<p><!--more-->
<div class="answer">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/bob.png" /></p>
<h3>bob mcalister answers:</h3>
<p class="pocd-content">What color is the roof?  Many people don&#8217;t take the roof color into account when choosing outside color palettes and then wonder why something looks off.</p>
<p>If the roof is a cool color like blue or a blue/gray, then stick with a color in the same &#8220;neighborhood&#8221;.  It&#8217;s it&#8217;s brown, go with a variety of that type of color.  Paint the front door a fun, welcoming color and add some planters with some plants in for more color and don&#8217;t forget some metal!  A new mailbox, light, planter something with a little metallic thing to it.</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="pocd-faq">
<div class="question">
<div class="asker">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/plugins/pageonecontentdynamo/headshots/Helen.png" width="80" height="80" /></p>
<p class="name">Helen asks…</p>
</div>
<div class="pocd-content">
<h2>How do I fix a ceiling that is bubbling?</h2>
<p>the ceiling in a corner of a room has been bubbling and staining.  i went into the attic to discover that it is right next to the chimney.  the roof is not leaking but the chimney might be creating moisture for the ceiling.  do i need some sort of vapour barrier?</p>
</div>
</div>
<p><!--more-->
<div class="answer">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/bob.png" /></p>
<h3>bob mcalister answers:</h3>
<p class="pocd-content">I had a similar problem with a roof leak and what I ended up doing was waiting for a sunny day and then going into my dark attic and looked for any light. There was a small crack along the edge of the vent pipe, so I caulked it from the outside and haven&#8217;t had any problems since then. If you get a hard driving rain storm then sometimes chimney areas will leak because of the design of metal flashing. Is the  brick&#8217;s mortar sound and not crumbling. You may have to get on the roof and inspect the caulking around the chimney. Try to get the leak resolved before you fix the drywall because it will continue to be a problem, thus causing you time and money. If it is a small amount of moisture accumulating due to condensation, try laying down some insulation to absorb it. The thing to do with the drywall is to cut out the bubbling and damaged sections with a utility knife. Scrap any loose debris. Then use a stain blocker like &#8216;Zinsser Cover Stain&#8217; or &#8216;Kilz&#8217; and put a couple of coats on the effected area. Use mineral spirits for clean up. When its dry. Skim coat the damaged ceiling and wall with drywall compound. You may have to do 2 to 3 coats before your done. Sand lightly between coats. Your last coat should be a light one, and sand it to a smooth finish. Apply a flat latex wall primer over your work. Paint it with the colors of your choosing</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="pocd-faq">
<div class="question">
<div class="asker">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/plugins/pageonecontentdynamo/headshots/Nancy.png" width="80" height="80" /></p>
<p class="name">Nancy asks…</p>
</div>
<div class="pocd-content">
<h2>Alright so I am going to make my first model house. I want to know what I can do get the different floors to?</h2>
<p>Move in  a different direction. Like moving the second to the left, and then the third to the right, ok??? How do I do that? I need something cheap, easy and inexpensive if there is such a thing. Also where is a good store to get paint and accessories for making model houses? I mean like not craft  paint but <strong>colors</strong> for like houses exteriors and interiors, because I want it to look as real as possible.</p>
<p>     What are the best woods to use? I ws thinking of using plywood for the flooring, but I was wondering if there was anything better. And when I am choosing for the walls, what are the best woods, adn what size and kind of nails should I use, because I don&#8217;t want the wood to split because I used the wrong nail.</p>
<p>     I am sorry if I sound like someone who has no idea what she is talking about, but that is probably  because I don&#8217;t!!</p>
</div>
</div>
<p><!--more-->
<div class="answer">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/bob.png" /></p>
<h3>bob mcalister answers:</h3>
<p class="pocd-content">Quick answers:-<br />
1. Floor move in different directions, either cut grove in wall or if you are using 2 panels of plywood to form the grove. Ie. Form vertical outside walls/plywood -3 directions by glueing to a base of 1st floor; internal walls cut short to underside of 2nd floor glue to exterior. Cut 2nd floor exactly to lay lossely on top of internal 1st floor 3 -walls. Finally, glue the 3 nos. Of 2nd floor internal walls to the exterior wall sitting on top of the loose 2nd floor. There, you have formed a sliding 2nd floor similar to a drawer grove design. All you have to do is to form a removal 4th wall.<br />
2. Paint &#8211; it&#8217;s a model house with minimum quantity of paint. (don&#8217;t buy a whole big can- find the smallest). If your base is wood- use wood paint. Metal paint has oil base &amp; may stain the other side of the surface- becareful. Go to a DIY store to buy the paint. Use primary colours red, blue, yellow, white &amp; black to mix &amp; form other colours to save cost. Some pastel and poster colurs can be painted to wood. To match the colour of the natural material, get a sample of the material ie roof tile, mix the paint on to it untill it matches the natural colour.<br />
3. Base material can be plywood (heavy) or foam board (foam sandwich bwt 2 white paper board). The latter is lighter for you to carry the model around. Balsa wood is an option but a bit soft &amp; not so durable. Try the local Art-Hobby shop.<br />
4. Wood choice- use foam board &amp; lay wood laminates (Any designs from DIY shop) on it&#8217;s surface.<br />
5. No nails, just glue preferable a slow setting type (white pvc type) not yu-hoo so that you have more time to adjust the panel settings before the glue sets. When it dries, the glue is tranparent.<br />
Good luck.</p>
</div>
</div>
<p><small>Powered by Yahoo! Answers</small></p>
]]></content:encoded>
			<wfw:commentRss>http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/your-questions-about-metal-roofing-colors-6/feed/</wfw:commentRss>
		<slash:comments>0</slash:comments>
		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Your Questions About Metal Roofing Prices</title>
		<link>http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/your-questions-about-metal-roofing-prices-7/</link>
		<comments>http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/your-questions-about-metal-roofing-prices-7/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 16 May 2013 11:07:02 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>bob mcalister</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Topics]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/your-questions-about-metal-roofing-prices-7/</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Ruth asks… where can i find how much new mobile homes are? all the websites won&#8217;t tell prices? anyone can [...]]]></description>
				<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div class="pocd-faq">
<div class="question">
<div class="asker">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/plugins/pageonecontentdynamo/headshots/Ruth.png" width="80" height="80" /></p>
<p class="name">Ruth asks…</p>
</div>
<div class="pocd-content">
<h2>where can i find how much new mobile homes are? all the websites won&#8217;t tell prices?</h2>
<p>anyone can help me with this? location is north carolina.<br />
wrangler sw&#8212; i looked at websites that are local, they won&#8217;t even tell the <strong>prices</strong>, here in my hometown.</p>
</div>
</div>
<p><span id="more-1248"></span>
<div class="answer">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/bob.png" /></p>
<h3>bob mcalister answers:</h3>
<p class="pocd-content">The websites won&#8217;t state how much the homes are, because the same home will be different prices in different parts of the country.  A $60,000 home in North Carolina, will run $120,000 outside of Detroit&#8230; And it&#8217;s the same identical home.  This is because of the housing markets in those different regions.  Also, there are many many different options you can get with your home&#8230;</p>
<p>You are going to have to go shopping.</p>
<p>Now&#8230; First, there are different kinds of homes for sale at mobile home dealerships&#8230;. There is the &#8216;traditional&#8217; mobile home.  (The overall quality of the homes produced industry wide, are much better than they were 20 years ago, but there are some things to watch out for).  Another type of home you may see at a dealership, is the &#8220;modular&#8221; home &#8212; this type of home is designed to have the steel transport frame removed once it has reached the home site, whereas the traditional mobile home, the steel frame is part of the structure, and has to stay in place.  You need to keep this in mind, if placing the home on a basement, as it affects the &#8216;actual&#8217; ceiling height.  If you had poured cement walls to 8ft&#8230; Expecting to get an 8ft ceiling in the basement, you&#8217;d get a shock&#8230;. Lol&#8230;. The frame alone would take about a foot of that space.</p>
<p>Okay&#8230; What to look for in a manufactured home&#8230;.</p>
<p>1:  Structure&#8230;Walls&#8230;Many homes come with only 7ft exterior walls&#8230;. Usually, these have shorter doors&#8230; More about that later.  Whenever possible, you want to look at homes with the full 8ft exterior walls, these are usually, the better built homes.<br />
The only load bearing walls in a manufactured home, are the exterior walls, and, in a double- or triple-wide, the marriage walls.  (those are the walls where the halves, or thirds, come together&#8230; All other interior walls are just decoration&#8230; They do not carry any of the weight of the roof)  This fact is important to know, because some of the lesser quality homes try to pass themselves off as good quality homes by saying they have &#8220;2&#215;4 load bearing walls&#8221;&#8230; And most folks would think that meant ALL the walls were made of regular house studs&#8230;. They are NOT.  In a home with that kind of description, the interior walls are actually made up of 1 /12&#8243; x 1 1/2&#8243; studs&#8230; Leaving you with very thin walls, which noise passes thru very easily.<br />
What you want to look for are homes with 2&#8243;x6&#8243; exterior walls, and standard wall studs on the interior walls.</p>
<p>2. Roofing:  Many manufacturers, even tho they may use shingles, will use a &#8216;lower grade&#8217; of shingle&#8230; What you want is a name brand with a minimum of a 25 year expected life on it  (Owens Corning, Certainteed&#8230; Both are good brands)  UNDER the shingles, you want at least 15 lb felt paper&#8230; 30lb is better&#8230; Unfortunately&#8230; Some of the lower quality homes do not even use felt paper&#8230; Instead, they use a two-ply brown paper&#8230; With wax on it&#8230; It&#8217;s no heavier than your local grocery store paper bag.  Think about that.  For the roof decking&#8230; 7/16&#8243; OSB (oriented strand board &#8211; also known as &#8216;wafer board&#8217;) is common, tho, you can upgrade to a full 3/4&#8243; with many manufacturers.<br />
By all means stay away from any homes with rolled sheetmetal roofing, and metal siding.  This type of home is closer to the &#8216;old&#8217; definition of what you would see in a &#8216;trailer&#8217; home.  If you just absolutely must have the metal roofing&#8230; You should know that &#8216;rumbling&#8217; is common&#8230; It is SUPPOSED to make noise.  The metal roof has to be able to expand and contract, with the temperature change, and therefore, it is noisy in the wind&#8230;.DO NOT put anything on top, to weigh it down, to try to stop the wind noise!  You run the risk of causing problems with leaks, from the metal stretching, and/or tearing, at the seams, or other locations, because of the extra weight.<br />
Inside the Attic&#8230;.ALL manufactured homes make use of &#8220;engineered&#8221; trusses.  The weight load has been calculated, and the trusses have been built to carry that minimum load&#8230;but there are different ways to achieve that.  So.. Do not simply let the salesman tell you the home has an &#8216;engineered&#8217; truss&#8230; They ALL have that&#8230;. That&#8217;s like going to a hardware store, and buying a hammer&#8230; That has a &#8216;handle&#8217;&#8230;. Of course it does&#8230; They ALL have handles, lol.  Some of these manufacturers use smaller timber, to make their trusses&#8230;. They may be using only 1 1/2&#8243; square lumber to make these trusses.  Yes&#8230; The overall truss is rated to carry the weight&#8230; But the individual components can be pretty weak.  The better quality homes use full &#8217;2&#215;4 studs&#8217; to make their trusses.  The result is stronger roof&#8230; It not only carries the weight required of it, but it is stronger overall&#8230; It will not come apart, as easily as one made of smaller components.<br />
Attic vents&#8230;.many homes come with the very simple &#8216;ridge vent&#8217;.  This can be a cardboard like product&#8230;(naturally, that doesnt hold up as well)&#8230; Or it could be a product that looks like a Scotchbrite cleaning pad.  A lot of &#8216;stick-built&#8217; homes are even using this particular type of ridge vent.  Then, under the eaves, you will have vented soffets.  Other manufacturers, offer an electric fan, that will pull the heated air out of the attic space.  This type of fan runs off of a thermo switch, and is a low voltage fan.  It will use about the same electricity as a light bulb, and turns on, when it senses the heat build up in the attic.</p>
<p>3. Siding &#8212; go with vinyl siding, or, &#8216;Hardiboard&#8217;.  Some of the newer homes are offering &#8216;Hardiboard&#8217; as an option for siding.  The &#8216;Hardiboard&#8217; (brand name) is a cement product, that looks like wood plank siding.  Obviously, it is resistant to bugs, and lasts an extremely long time.  Some homes use &#8216;Hardiboard as exterior trim.  The vinyl siding actually comes in two thicknesses.  There is a cheaper product about 30 mil thick, and the better quality at around 45 mil.  Just goto your local home supply store, and ask to see a sample of what they have in stock&#8230;. Most of these stores carry the heavier vinyl&#8230; Then, when you are shopping you can compare the feel of them.  The thinner vinyl is much more susceptible to breaking, than the heavier vinyl.  There are many styles of vinyl siding&#8230; And the actual &#8216;style&#8217;, or pattern, is not going to affect the quality, as much as the thickness of the vinyl.  The better quality vinyl comes with a minimum of a 15 year warranty, provided, you keep it cleaned as instructred.<br />
Under the siding &#8212; some homes offer wood sheathing as a standard, and some as an option &#8212; keep that in mind when comparing prices.  The better quality homes will come with 7/16&#8243; OSB sheathing.  The lesser quality will come with &#8216;blackboard&#8217;, or just a thin layer of foam sheet insulation.  This affects the strength of the walls, and the insulating properties.</p>
<p>4: Floors &#8212; Most manufactured homes come standard these days with a 5/8&#8243; OSB subfloor.  Some manufacturers offer actual 3/4&#8243; plywood.  The big factor here, between these two products is how long they can be expected to last, and what happens to them if they get wet.  Plywood tolerates getting wet better than OSB.  The OSB will be ok, if you dry it off right away&#8230; But if you let water set on it for any length of time, it WILL warp.  Many homes come with particle board flooring&#8230; This is usually smoother on the surface than OSB, and allows vinly flooring to lay directly on it, with no underlayment.  Again&#8230; If it gets wet&#8230;. You need to dry it immediately.<br />
The floor studs need to be AT LEAST 2&#215;6 floor joists&#8230; Many of the newer homes are offering 2&#215;8 joists&#8230; The larger the stud you can get, the better off you are.</p>
<p>5.  Floor covering &#8212; you can, of course find all kinds of floor coverings out there&#8230; From the traditional rolled vinyl flooring, and carpet, to laminate flooring, wood flooring&#8230;even ceramic tiles.<br />
For the vinyl floors.. You want a heavy grade of vinyl floor&#8230;.the thinner stuff tears too easily, and does not last as long.  &#8220;Armstrong&#8221; makes a lot of vinyl flooring for manufactured homes, and is usually a good choice in vinyl.<br />
For carpeted floors&#8230; You want a good foam pad under the carpet&#8230; At least 5/8&#8243; thick&#8230;. 3/4&#8243; if you can get it.  The carpet itself should have a good backer, and heavy thread, or loop, count.  Quick test&#8230; If you can poke an inkpen tip thru the carpeting, without disturbing the fiber or backing&#8230;. Its a low quality, lol.<br />
For laminate floors&#8230;. Laminate flooring comes in many styles these days&#8230; From actual wood veneers and plywood backing to HPL (High Pressure Laminate &#8212; like the stuff on the countertops) with MDF (Medium Density Fiberboard) backing.  &#8220;Pergo&#8221; is a well known brand name&#8230;. Even with that.. You have to be careful of what you are getting.  Most of the &#8216;snap fit&#8217; laminated flooring comes with an MDF core, or backer&#8230; MDF is very stable&#8230; As long as it stays moisture free&#8230; Notice, I said &#8220;moisture&#8221;&#8230; Let alone actually getting &#8216;wet&#8217;.  There are a whole list of do&#8217;s and don&#8217;ts for installing flooring with MDF core.  I would rather have the wood veneer, or heavy vinyl flooring, myself, than the HPL laminated flooring.  If youre looking for the wood flooring&#8230; Make sure it is either glued, or tongue nailed&#8230;. Do not accept anything that is &#8220;face&#8221; nailed (this means nailed thru the top of the board, straight down&#8230;. These nails WILL back out, and you run the risk of cutting any bare feet that are walking on them)<br />
Ceramic, marble, manufactured marble, etc&#8230; Tiles are about the best you can get for long lasting flooring.  Of course, in a manufactured home, that has to be transported, and then set-up&#8230; You can expect some mortar cracks that will need to be repaired.  Some of which may not appear for up to a year, as the home settles.  I like certain kinds of tile, myself, but not all kinds&#8230; This is really a matter of personal preference.  But any of the heavy tile will last a good long time.</p>
<p>6.  Frame &#8212; As I mentioned at the top of this post&#8230; &#8216;modular&#8217; homes are made to have the steel frame removed once they get to the home site&#8230;. Therefore, the floor joists actually have rim joists and boards, like homes constructed on site, or &#8216;stick built&#8217; as they are called.  Any frame that is going to stay under the home, as with most mobile homes&#8230;. Needs to be a heavy gauge steel&#8230; Believe it or not&#8230; Some companies try to save money by putting a weaker frame under a home.  This WILL result in problems down the road.</p>
<p>7.  Plumbing &#8212; this is probably one of the fastest ways to tell what the overall quality of the home is going to be like&#8230;.if you see &#8216;grey&#8217; tubing with a copper band at the fittings or joints&#8230;. That&#8217;s a bad sign.  While the tubing is acceptable, and does the job&#8230;. It will cost YOU more money later, to make any repairs, or changes.  Qwest brand fittings are made of the same kind of plastic, and are compression fittings&#8230; They will cost you TWICE as much, at least, as any other type of fittings.  Those copper bands are &#8216;crimped&#8217; into place with a $100 crimping tool&#8230; Looks like a big pair of bolt cutters&#8230;.so, you can either spend $100 on a crimping tool, or buy overpriced compression fittings.<br />
The better quality homes will have cpvc plumbing (this is a cream colored plastic&#8230; Actually quite popular in &#8216;stick built&#8217; homes  too.)  The cpvc is easy to repair, and maintain, and lasts a long time&#8230; As long as you don&#8217;t let it freeze, lol.<br />
Copper pipe is often found in older &#8216;stick built&#8217; homes&#8230;but the cpvc has become the plumbing standard over the recent years.<br />
Shut off valves, and supply lines to fixtures&#8230; If you look under a sink, or at the toilet&#8230; You SHOULD see a shut off valve.  I recommend a shut off valve for EVERY supply line, under EVERY sink.  Even if this is an &#8220;upgrade option&#8221; &#8212; do it&#8230;. It means that if you ever have to fix a leaky faucet&#8230; You can leave the water on to the rest of the house, while you fix that one&#8230;rather than having to shut off the water to the WHOLE house&#8230;.lol&#8230; The women and children will very much appreciate this fact, as the bathrooms will still work, while the problem fixture is being worked on, lol.<br />
Now&#8230; Some manufacturers will have an ENTRY SUPPLY shut off valve.  This one valve will turn off the water to the whole house.  Some manufacturers do NOT offer this valve&#8230; If you buy a home without one&#8230; PUT ONE ON!  These valves can sometimes be found UNDER the home (as is the case with most homes with the tubing), or it will be located IN the home&#8230; Usually near the washer hook-ups, or hot water heater.<br />
When your home is installed&#8230;. Make sure your supply line is insulated, with heat tape applied to the length of it.  The better quality homes will ALREADY have an electrical outlet under the home, near the supply inlet.</p>
<p>8.  Windows &#8230;. Here, you want to see vinyl &#8216;double hung&#8217; windows&#8230;.with insulating glass panes.  If the home has aluminum windows&#8230; That&#8217;s a lesser quality home.  Whether the window has &#8220;battens&#8221; or &#8220;mullions&#8221; in it, is only a preference in looks, and does not alter the quality of the window any.  If you buy a home with vinyl windows&#8230; Do NOT use oil to lubricate them&#8230; The oil will break down the plastic.  Do not even use silicone sprays&#8230; As they also contain oil.  Instead&#8230;. Lubricate vinyl windows and doors with WAX.  Johnson&#8217; furniture wax is an excellent vinyl lubricant, and I used to carry a can with me all the time, when servicing mobile homes.</p>
<p>9.  Interior Amenities&#8230; Appliances, tubs, etc&#8230; GE, is a very popular brand with a lot of manufacturers.  It&#8217;s a good brand too, and comes with its own warranty.<br />
Bathtubs, showers, etc&#8230;. Many of these in the homes today, are made of acrylic.  This is a heavy plastic.  As long as it is supported properly, this isnt a problem.  Some homes offer &#8216;garden tubs&#8217;, or even &#8216;spa tubs&#8217;.<br />
Sinks&#8230;whenever possible, look for metal sinks&#8230;even in the bathrooms&#8230; They last longer.  Some companies use plastic sinks in the bathrooms, to save money.<br />
Cabinets &#8230;. This is another area, that some companies like to &#8216;glitz&#8217; up a home&#8230; That is&#8230; They put in a cabinet that LOOKS pretty&#8230; But is actually, weaker structurally, than others.  First thing to look at, is the cabinet door&#8230; What is it made of?  The better homes will have a wood door frame, with wood veneer in the center panel&#8230; An expensive cabinet, will have raised panels, or the very expensive, will have actual solid wood panels.  The cheaper quality (whether they charge less for it or not) cabinet door will be a particle board core, with a paper-like surface.  The same applies for the &#8216;face frame&#8217; of the cabinet&#8230;. The face frame is the wood that the doors are screwed into, that you see between the doors, etc&#8230; The better quality cabinet will have actual wood (normally oak is very popular here)&#8230; The lesser quality cabinet will have an mdf product with that same type of paper surface.<br />
Trim throughout the home&#8230; This is usually the same kind of product as the cabinets&#8230;.the lesser quality homes will have an mdf core trim, wrapped in paper.  The better homes will have either an actual wood trim that has been &#8216;fingerjointed&#8217; together, with a wood veneer, or thermoplastic coating.  Just ask to see a sample of the trim, and flip it over and look at the back of it.<br />
Interior Walls &#8230; MOST manufacturers, will use a 3/8&#8243; inch sheetrock, with a vinyl coating (like a wall paper, over the entire sheet).  This type of wall cover has a flat trim strip over the joint of each sheet, called a &#8216;batten&#8217;.  This has the matching pattern on it.  A lesser quality home&#8230; Will actually use paneling!  But ONLY paneling.. As a wall cover.  This was quite popular with a lot of older mobile homes.  Today&#8230; It is common to see a &#8216;family room&#8217;, or &#8216;great room&#8217; with &#8216;finished drywall&#8217; &#8212; that is, they apply joint compound, and tape to the seams, and sand them.  Then, many manufacturers will apply a texture pattern to the wall&#8230; &#8220;knock-down&#8221;, or &#8220;orange-peel&#8221; is fairly common.  This texture is sprayed onto the walls with a hopper gun, like many ceiling textures.  Most of the &#8220;good quality&#8221; homes will at least offer this type of wall cover as a standard for their large common rooms.  The best quality homes will have 1/2&#8243; sheetrock, finished, throughout the entire home.<br />
Ceilings &#8212; the older &#8216;trailers&#8217; all had an &#8216;insulated&#8217; tile as the ceiling of choice.  These days it is more common to see a &#8216;popcorn&#8217; or &#8216;plaster&#8217; texture.  These finishes are really, just a matter of taste&#8230;. The &#8216;popcorn&#8217; texture is sprayed on with a hopper gun&#8230;as is some of the &#8216;plaster&#8217; type textures&#8230; Some of the &#8216;plaster&#8217; texturing is done with a foam paint roller, that has the pattern cut into it.  The &#8216;plaster&#8217;&#8230; Is actually just wall joint compound.<br />
Now, some homes offer &#8217;rounded&#8217; corners, as a feature&#8230; This is actually a plastic moulding that is staped to the corner, and mudded in&#8230; Then painted over.  This is really a matter of taste&#8230; And  not an indicator of overall quality.  The &#8216;square&#8217; corners are usually made of the standard metal corner beading.  Both of these items are found in &#8216;stick-built&#8217; homes too.<br />
Interior doors&#8230; You can find the flat surfaced doors, or, becoming more common, the &#8216;six panel&#8217; doors.  Actually, both are made of the same product usually, so its a matter of preference&#8230; But take a moment to look at the hinges&#8230;.The better quality homes will have 3 house-type hinges on each door.  The lesser quality homes will have 2, or sometimes 3, of a different kind of hinge.  The better hinge has two full hinge plates&#8230; The lesser quality hinge, will be made so that one half, will close into the other half&#8230; The metal is thinner too.<br />
Door Knobs&#8230; The cheapest homes will use plastic knob sets&#8230;. Stay away from those.  The more common quality homes will have knobsets like you would see in the hardware store.  E-Z set is a good common brand of knobsets and locks found in a lot of manufactured homes, and hardware stores.<br />
Entry doors &#8230;. The better quality home will have a FULL size steel door (80&#8243; tall &#8212; a lot of mobile homes only have 78&#8243; high doors, and are a royal pain to find replacements for, lol)  Storm doors are becoming an &#8216;option&#8217; with more and more manufacturers, these days.  But  look for that 80&#8243; steel entry door.  That&#8217;s a good sign.  Now.. Most companies, will put a cheaper door on the back&#8230;. Most of the time, it&#8217;s not a steel door&#8230; Sometimes it has a window, sometimes not.  These doors often enter at the utility room&#8230;. Which.. As many homes as Ive worked on over the years&#8230;. This is the most commonly used door, with families, lol&#8230; So&#8230; Opt for the better door here if you can.</p>
<p>10.  &#8220;Zoning&#8221; and Heavy appliance units &#8212; air conditions, furnaces, water heaters&#8230;. Don&#8217;t skimp on these items.  By federal law&#8230; All homes are required to have a &#8220;data plate&#8221; located somewhere in the home.  Many times, this is located on the backside of a kitchen cabinet door.  On the data plate, you should find the home manufacturer, the model number, and serial number&#8230; And&#8230; What &#8220;zone&#8221; it was made for.  There are two kinds of &#8216;zones&#8217;&#8230; The first relates to temperature.  Naturally, a home going to an area with more winter, or colder winters, require slightly more insulation than those in a nicer climate.  The second &#8216;zone&#8217; refers to winds.. And how much wind penetration the home can stand up to.  The homes sold in your area, MUST meet the minimum requirements&#8230; This will also be stated on the data plate&#8230;. It will most likely look like a map of the US. With the zones shaded into it.  You CAN order a home with a higher zone rating then what is commonly offered in your area.  SOME manufacturers AND/OR dealerships will offer homes made for the higher zone ratings.  Ive been to a few dealerships across the country, that, as a matter of course, ordered the extra insulation, and wind zone packages, and they were standard features of their homes.  They simply offered better homes than the other dealers in the area.  Keep the zones in mind, when you are comparison shopping.  Also, many manufacturers offer only a 30 gallong hot water heater, as their standard option&#8230; You want at least a 40 gallon.  Rheem is a poplar brand.  Whether it is gas or electric, depends on you.   (Some electric companies will offer you a bonus, if you use an &#8216;all electric&#8217; home&#8230;be sure to check with your utility company for that)<br />
Same goes for the furnace/central air system&#8230; Do not settle for a unit that is not large enough to properly heat or cool your home.<br />
Floor vents are another quick indicator of the overall quality of a home&#8230;. The lesser quality homes will have all the vents right down the middle of the home.  The better quality homes will have the vents along the perimeter walls.<br />
When you have the home set-up&#8230; Make sure that when they install the air conditioning&#8230; That they run the drain tube to the OUTSIDE of the home&#8230; Do NOT let them simply drop it thru the floor, to under the house.  This will cause a moisture buildup, that will cause problems for you later.  (Same goes for a dryer vent&#8230; It needs to run OUTSIDE the home, not under it).</p>
<p>Now, there are other options you can get with a home&#8230; Fireplaces, skylights, etc&#8230;. These are just &#8216;add-ons&#8217;, and are not a good indicator of quality.  ALL manufacturers that offer &#8216;finished&#8217; drywall rooms&#8230; Will put a PRIMER on it, whether it is mixed in with the texture or you get smooth walls.  But it is ONLY primer&#8230;it WILL get dirty fairly quickly, and WILL NOT clean up well.  It is ONLY primer.  If you want the rooms to have actual PAINT&#8230; That will cost you extra, if they will even agree to do it.  You should PLAN on painting the walls (at least&#8230; And ceilings when you can) after the first year of ownership.</p>
<p>Some dealerships offer a complete package deal&#8230; Setup, land, everything included&#8230; Others charge for each stage of the process&#8230;. So be sure to get that information too.  </p>
<p>Financing &#8212; Watch Out here&#8230; You can get hit with hidden costs and fees, and high interest rates&#8230;. Compare the financing the dealership offers you, with a mortgage from your bank.  Oh, and don&#8217;t think you can simply stop making payments on the home, if you have problems with your dealership, later on&#8230;.the home mortgage is NOT the same company as the dealership&#8230; The dealer already has his money&#8230; And if you fail to keep up payments, while trying to resolve problems with a dealership&#8230; You WILL lose your home.  It is better to keep making the payments&#8230; And goto the manufacturer, if you cannot get your issues settled to your satisfaction with the dealer.  A dealer that becomes known as a &#8216;problem&#8217;, will get dropped by the better quality manufacturers.</p>
<p>Finally&#8230;. Most manufacturers offer a variety of home types, based on price range&#8230;. Much like the big car manufacturers do&#8230;.you can buy a Chevy, Pontiac, or Cadillac&#8230; Or Ford, Mercury, or Lincoln&#8230; Each with a common frame, and different choices in trim and options, to accomodate the budget.  The trick when comparing homes&#8230; Is to look at the overall quality of the home you are looking at.  </p>
<p>Pay close attention to the details, and don&#8217;t let a salesman rush you into anything, hehehehe&#8230;  Insist on taking pamphlets, floor plans, and any other information they have (and yes, they will have it all printed up, already), with you, to comparison shop&#8230; Do NOT be afraid to ask why one home is different from another&#8230;.even on the same dealer&#8217;s lot.  </p>
<p>I know this is a long post&#8230; I hope those that read it, benefit from it.  Ive spent many years working on mobile homes, and to be frank&#8230; There are some manufacturers that I turned down for service contracts.  I knew they were trouble, hehehe.</p>
<p>Happy Shopping!</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="pocd-faq">
<div class="question">
<div class="asker">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/plugins/pageonecontentdynamo/headshots/David.png" width="80" height="80" /></p>
<p class="name">David asks…</p>
</div>
<div class="pocd-content">
<h2>My 1100 square foot house needs a new roof? About how much is reasonable? What features should I consider?</h2>
<p>My house was built in 1979.  I bought it in1993.  Some of the shingles are starting to turn up around the edges.</p>
</div>
</div>
<p><!--more-->
<div class="answer">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/bob.png" /></p>
<h3>bob mcalister answers:</h3>
<p class="pocd-content">If you do not have a contractor in your area with a lot of metal roofing experience, stay with asphalt shingles; and use the &#8220;heaviest&#8221; available to you. The weight stated on the label is the weight per &#8220;square” (100 Sq, Ft.). The building Code also requires some form of Ice and water shield, if you live anywhere the average daily temperature in January is 25 degrees F, or less. This must be installed so that the top of the ice &amp; water shield is 24&#8243; or more inside of any exterior wall (measured horizontally to the inside edge of the wall).</p>
<p>Also be sure that new flashing is installed wherever it is needed. See if your local Building Department requires a permit.</p>
<p>With roofs, as with most home improvement projects, the best price is NOT the way to determine who to hire. Talk to past customers, and not just the happy ones. The best references come from people who were not satisfied, but the contractor came back to fix the problem; no matter how small.</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="pocd-faq">
<div class="question">
<div class="asker">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/plugins/pageonecontentdynamo/headshots/Sandy.png" width="80" height="80" /></p>
<p class="name">Sandy asks…</p>
</div>
<div class="pocd-content">
<h2>Avg cost of home building in Mississippi?</h2>
<p>I&#8217;m looking to build a home in near Sataria,MS. I have my own land to build on, that I will be clearing myself . I want something with a good amount of space 2500-3000 sqft. ,vaulted cielings, and a <strong>metal</strong> roof<br />
i&#8217;m trying to get a good estimate. I can also use VA loan.</p>
</div>
</div>
<p><!--more-->
<div class="answer">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/bob.png" /></p>
<h3>bob mcalister answers:</h3>
<p class="pocd-content">I don&#8217;t live in your area, but I think prices in both my area and yours are comparable. A friend of mine recently built a rather nice house (vaulted ceilings, three levels including walk out basement, good quality materials used, energy efficiency made a priority) and it cost no less than 190,000. He was able to do a little of the work himself, but not much.</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="pocd-faq">
<div class="question">
<div class="asker">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/plugins/pageonecontentdynamo/headshots/Steven.png" width="80" height="80" /></p>
<p class="name">Steven asks…</p>
</div>
<div class="pocd-content">
<h2>What is the best way to buy small amounts of precious metals in coin form?</h2>
<p>Going to invest in this, instead of government &#8220;IOU&#8217;S&#8221; in the form of paper money&#8230;.</p>
</div>
</div>
<p><!--more-->
<div class="answer">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/bob.png" /></p>
<h3>bob mcalister answers:</h3>
<p class="pocd-content">Well, there are a couple of ways to do it.</p>
<p>One is to go to a local coin shop, and buy from them, or you could buy on-line.</p>
<p>Either way, you want to pay the least over &#8220;spot&#8221; that you can for the amount you&#8217;re going to spend.  I checked one of the big on-line sellers, and their markup over spot for 1/10 ounce gold bullion coins is 65%, and it&#8217;s 45% for the 1/2 ounce coins.</p>
<p>What that means is that if you buy half ounce gold coins from them, the price needs to go to nearly $2500/ounce (in 2012 dollars) before you break even.  It would need to go up to nearly $2700/ounce on the 1/10 ounce coins.</p>
<p>Unfortunately, a lot of people got sucked in back in the 1980&#8242;s during the last run-up in precious metals.  The people who bought at the top of the market _still_ haven&#8217;t made their money back, because the price of precious metals goes down when the economy is better (and before you start thinking &#8220;But it&#8217;s different this time&#8211;there&#8217;s no way the economy is going to get better, and the dollar may collapse&#8221;, that&#8217;s _exactly_ what was being said in 1980.  I&#8217;m old enough to remember it.)</p>
<p>If the places you&#8217;re getting your information from are only talking about the potential for gold to &#8220;go through the roof&#8221;, then you&#8217;re only getting half the picture&#8211;and that&#8217;s a bad way to choose your investments.</p>
<p>I&#8217;m not saying you shouldn&#8217;t buy any gold or silver (I&#8217;ve got some of both), but don&#8217;t make it your only investment, and really know what you&#8217;re doing before you pull the trigger.</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="pocd-faq">
<div class="question">
<div class="asker">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/plugins/pageonecontentdynamo/headshots/Mark.png" width="80" height="80" /></p>
<p class="name">Mark asks…</p>
</div>
<div class="pocd-content">
<h2>How to install aftermarket fog lights in 07 yukon base model?</h2>
<p>I want to install fog lights to a 07 yukon its the base model. The bumper has the fog light knock outs so how would i wire them in? anyone have a diagram of the wiring for them? would there be a harness already there for the fog lights to which i could tap into or would i have to do some other kind of wiring? help plz i would rather do them myself than have some crap mechanic mess with that new truck and dealership <strong>prices</strong> r through the roof. any help thxs in advance</p>
</div>
</div>
<p><!--more-->
<div class="answer">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/bob.png" /></p>
<h3>bob mcalister answers:</h3>
<p class="pocd-content">Its really quiet easy.</p>
<p>You&#8217;ll need a switch, and a relay capable of 15 apms per each output. They sell them at radio shack.</p>
<p>DIrect battery power to terminal 30, and the terminal accross from that, goes to the body or frame, (Whatevers metal) </p>
<p>There should be 3 terminals left over, there will be 2 output terminals, these go to power for each foglight. The remaining 1 terminal, when power is applied to it, the relay energizes, and the lights come on. Run a wire from a switched power fuse in the fuse block, to a switch you want to use for your fog lights, then to that terminal.</p>
<p>And your done.</p>
<p>Messege me on yahoo if you need further instruction, this is a little vauge. I can send you some diagrams, though, they wont be specific to your car, you will need some common sense.</p>
</div>
</div>
<p><small>Powered by Yahoo! Answers</small></p>
]]></content:encoded>
			<wfw:commentRss>http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/your-questions-about-metal-roofing-prices-7/feed/</wfw:commentRss>
		<slash:comments>0</slash:comments>
		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Your Questions About Roofs</title>
		<link>http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/your-questions-about-roofs-36/</link>
		<comments>http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/your-questions-about-roofs-36/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 15 May 2013 11:07:03 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>bob mcalister</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Topics]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/your-questions-about-roofs-36/</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Ken asks… Flat roof replacement,is bitumen used as flashing? What type of insulation is best when replacing a flat roof? [...]]]></description>
				<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div class="pocd-faq">
<div class="question">
<div class="asker">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/plugins/pageonecontentdynamo/headshots/Ken.png" width="80" height="80" /></p>
<p class="name">Ken asks…</p>
</div>
<div class="pocd-content">
<h2>Flat roof replacement,is bitumen used as flashing? What type of insulation is best when replacing a flat roof?</h2>
<p>Our end unit 1940&#8243;s row house has an old leaking bitumen roof . The water entry point can not be found so a replacement seems the way to go. A roofer suggested a replacement using Firestone 180, 1/2 inch fiberboard insulation covered with fiberglass base sheet, bitumen for flashing and fibered aluminum coating on wall coping .  It&#8217;s all Greek to be but fiberboard insulation and flashing material ? Should I be concerned?</p>
</div>
</div>
<p><span id="more-1247"></span>
<div class="answer">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/bob.png" /></p>
<h3>bob mcalister answers:</h3>
<p class="pocd-content">We use kingspan insulation, marine grade plyboard , 3/4 inch, and yes you can use bitumen as flashing. I hope i am not being condescending, but the flashing is the bit that goes from the roof and a little way up the wall and is then &#8220;pointed&#8221; into the bricks, thus forming a water-proof barrier.</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="pocd-faq">
<div class="question">
<div class="asker">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/plugins/pageonecontentdynamo/headshots/Mark.png" width="80" height="80" /></p>
<p class="name">Mark asks…</p>
</div>
<div class="pocd-content">
<h2>How do you brush the roof of your mouth without cutting yourself?</h2>
<p>I was brushing the roof of my mouth today with my hard bristle tooth brush because {obviously} it helps to remove odor causing bacteria that can hide up there, and I cut myself up really badly was bleeding all over, and now it hurts just to eat or open my mouth.</p>
<p>So how do you brush the roof of your mouth where all of the gum tissue is?</p>
</div>
</div>
<p><!--more-->
<div class="answer">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/bob.png" /></p>
<h3>bob mcalister answers:</h3>
<p class="pocd-content">- hey little dude !</p>
<p>- 1 doesn&#8217;t really have 2 brush the roof of his mouth but is 1&#8242;s gonna do it, use a soft bristle tooth brush so that U don&#8217;t cut yourself.<br />
- all the oder causing bacteria doesn&#8217;t stick 2 the roof of 1&#8242;s mouth, but on 1&#8242;s tongue instead.<br />
- there R special toothbrush for that.  (for brushing 1&#8242;s tongue)</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="pocd-faq">
<div class="question">
<div class="asker">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/plugins/pageonecontentdynamo/headshots/William.png" width="80" height="80" /></p>
<p class="name">William asks…</p>
</div>
<div class="pocd-content">
<h2>How do you repair a dent on the roof of an RV?</h2>
<p>I bought a 1983 Pace Arrow last year to fix up, and got quite a bit accomplished just by searching google. My next project is the roof. There&#8217;s no serious issues with it, no leaks (already re-sealed it), the only issue I&#8217;m left with is a big dent above the living room to the right of the AC unit. I&#8217;ve read about people completely having to replace their <strong>roofs</strong> because of dents, or cut out the dented area and apply steel sheets to fix the issue. If possible I would rather have a quick fix that would be easier than replacing it, and not include having to cut a giant hole in the roof. Anyone know of anything helpful for my situation?</p>
</div>
</div>
<p><!--more-->
<div class="answer">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/bob.png" /></p>
<h3>bob mcalister answers:</h3>
<p class="pocd-content">I think you need to contact any roof company. Http://www.interstateroof.com/ go this website. Visit here hope you can get Suggestion your problem may be solved.</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="pocd-faq">
<div class="question">
<div class="asker">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/plugins/pageonecontentdynamo/headshots/Lisa.png" width="80" height="80" /></p>
<p class="name">Lisa asks…</p>
</div>
<div class="pocd-content">
<h2>How much does the average roof sles person make a month?</h2>
<p>I was offered a job selling <strong>roofs</strong>, how much do these salesman typically make on an average month?</p>
</div>
</div>
<p><!--more-->
<div class="answer">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/bob.png" /></p>
<h3>bob mcalister answers:</h3>
<p class="pocd-content">Hi<br />
What you are talking about is a job as a sales person right?<br />
In my experience these guys are high pressure, promise the earth and the product can be got elsewhere for a fraction of the price. If you are OK with the thought of ripping off pensioners then go for it.</p>
<p>Of course I could be completely wrong and have been approached by a genuine ethical company, but I doubt it.</p>
<p>Cheers<br />
Bill</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="pocd-faq">
<div class="question">
<div class="asker">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/plugins/pageonecontentdynamo/headshots/Mandy.png" width="80" height="80" /></p>
<p class="name">Mandy asks…</p>
</div>
<div class="pocd-content">
<h2>What are average costs of installing a sedum roof?</h2>
<p>I would like to install a sedum (green) roof on what is now a flat surface, what is the approximate cost per square metre, that is for both the sedum mats and installation/preparation?<br />
Note: the question is for cost in the UK.</p>
</div>
</div>
<p><!--more-->
<div class="answer">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/bob.png" /></p>
<h3>bob mcalister answers:</h3>
<p class="pocd-content">Every roof will be a different price.  Ask yourself;<br />
What size is the roof?<br />
What are the dimensions?<br />
Rooflights -sizes?<br />
What lengths are gutter falls?<br />
What lengths are abutments?<br />
What lengths are parapet or upstands?<br />
First floor or 14th floor?<br />
Access &#8211; thru house or around pathway or back gate, 15m from lorry drop off?<br />
What&#8217;s your postcode?</p>
<p>Then tell all that to these people and ask for a price&#8230;  Www.Green-roofing.co.UK</p>
</div>
</div>
<p><small>Powered by Yahoo! Answers</small></p>
]]></content:encoded>
			<wfw:commentRss>http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/your-questions-about-roofs-36/feed/</wfw:commentRss>
		<slash:comments>0</slash:comments>
		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Your Questions About Vinyl Siding Cost</title>
		<link>http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/your-questions-about-vinyl-siding-cost-5/</link>
		<comments>http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/your-questions-about-vinyl-siding-cost-5/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 14 May 2013 11:07:01 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>bob mcalister</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Topics]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/your-questions-about-vinyl-siding-cost-5/</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Betty asks… How much would it cost to replace vinyl siding on a 1600 sq foot house? bob mcalister answers: [...]]]></description>
				<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div class="pocd-faq">
<div class="question">
<div class="asker">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/plugins/pageonecontentdynamo/headshots/Betty.png" width="80" height="80" /></p>
<p class="name">Betty asks…</p>
</div>
<div class="pocd-content">
<h2>How much would it cost to replace vinyl siding on a 1600 sq foot house?</h2>
</p>
</div>
</div>
<p><span id="more-1246"></span>
<div class="answer">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/bob.png" /></p>
<h3>bob mcalister answers:</h3>
<p class="pocd-content">About    $3,500</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="pocd-faq">
<div class="question">
<div class="asker">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/plugins/pageonecontentdynamo/headshots/George.png" width="80" height="80" /></p>
<p class="name">George asks…</p>
</div>
<div class="pocd-content">
<h2>Can I use cement boards instead of plywood boards for exterior walls under siding?</h2>
<p>I would like to make my exterior walls more resistant against water and termites, so I would like to put cement boards instead of plywood boards before installing new <strong>vinyl</strong> <strong>siding</strong>. It costs a bit more but I think it would be worth it.</p>
</div>
</div>
<p><!--more-->
<div class="answer">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/bob.png" /></p>
<h3>bob mcalister answers:</h3>
<p class="pocd-content">It would cost double the amount of plywood .The nails won t hold good in just the cement board.When nailing into the cement board you may pound through the cement board if there is no wood support under it, but  other than that there is no reason you couldn t.  In other words I wouldn t suggest it. GL</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="pocd-faq">
<div class="question">
<div class="asker">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/plugins/pageonecontentdynamo/headshots/Sandy.png" width="80" height="80" /></p>
<p class="name">Sandy asks…</p>
</div>
<div class="pocd-content">
<h2>Which is cheaper vinyl siding or redo the cedar shakes on my house?</h2>
<p>There is almost 2,000 square feet to cover on my house.  I don&#8217;t know if it would be better for me to do <strong>vinyl</strong> <strong>siding</strong> or just replace the cedar shakes that I have on my house.  Does anyone know how much it would <strong>cost</strong> for each one?  I&#8217;m in Ohio.</p>
</div>
</div>
<p><!--more-->
<div class="answer">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/bob.png" /></p>
<h3>bob mcalister answers:</h3>
<p class="pocd-content">Vinyl Siding would be ALOT cheaper than cedar shakes. Vinyl is also cheaper to install than cedar shakes. Cedar shakes will take twice if not 3 times longer to install.</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="pocd-faq">
<div class="question">
<div class="asker">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/plugins/pageonecontentdynamo/headshots/Joseph.png" width="80" height="80" /></p>
<p class="name">Joseph asks…</p>
</div>
<div class="pocd-content">
<h2>how much does it cost to remove new water management, remove stucco and install vinyl siding?</h2>
<p>I own a home that was built in 60&#8242;s.  It is leaking from stucco through the cracks when we have rain with wind.  Felt paper has been dried out and has holes and there is no plywood sheeting.  How much will it <strong>cost</strong> for me to remove stucco, do water management(new felt paper, plywood, maybe add water management pad, and install <strong>vinyl</strong> <strong>siding</strong>?</p>
</div>
</div>
<p><!--more-->
<div class="answer">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/bob.png" /></p>
<h3>bob mcalister answers:</h3>
<p class="pocd-content">Sex</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="pocd-faq">
<div class="question">
<div class="asker">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/plugins/pageonecontentdynamo/headshots/Donna.png" width="80" height="80" /></p>
<p class="name">Donna asks…</p>
</div>
<div class="pocd-content">
<h2>Is it wise to get major home improvements (vinyl siding and doors) done by taking a lien out on my house?</h2>
<p>I am considering doing a much needed repair on my home. It costs 23,000. The company will finance us using affordable monthly payments. What is the danger in this. Will <strong>vinyl</strong> <strong>siding</strong> boost my property value. I have the original aluminum <strong>siding</strong> on my house now and it looks horrible.</p>
</div>
</div>
<p><!--more-->
<div class="answer">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/bob.png" /></p>
<h3>bob mcalister answers:</h3>
<p class="pocd-content">Be careful, better to take a home improvement loan.<br />
Contractors sometime will try to take your house if you miss one payment and interest rate may be lot higher.<br />
If you can save some money and do little at a time would be better.<br />
Also made sure to get 3 or more quotation from other venders.</p>
</div>
</div>
<p><small>Powered by Yahoo! Answers</small></p>
]]></content:encoded>
			<wfw:commentRss>http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/your-questions-about-vinyl-siding-cost-5/feed/</wfw:commentRss>
		<slash:comments>0</slash:comments>
		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Your Questions About Metal Roofs For Houses</title>
		<link>http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/your-questions-about-metal-roofs-for-houses-10/</link>
		<comments>http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/your-questions-about-metal-roofs-for-houses-10/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 13 May 2013 11:07:02 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>bob mcalister</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Topics]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/your-questions-about-metal-roofs-for-houses-10/</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Thomas asks… does my metal roof need closures? I just had a new cabin built and it has a metal [...]]]></description>
				<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div class="pocd-faq">
<div class="question">
<div class="asker">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/plugins/pageonecontentdynamo/headshots/Thomas.png" width="80" height="80" /></p>
<p class="name">Thomas asks…</p>
</div>
<div class="pocd-content">
<h2>does my metal roof need closures?</h2>
<p>I just had a new cabin built and it has a <strong>metal</strong> roof, from the attic i can see outside where the <strong>metal</strong> is corrigated at the bottom of the roof (by the over hang) when i told the builder that i was worried about bugs etc getting into the attic, he said he doesnt use the foam closures, he said  he puts some type of tape in there and the bugs can&#8217;t get in, i find that hard to believe because i can see light through it.</p>
</div>
</div>
<p><span id="more-1245"></span>
<div class="answer">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/bob.png" /></p>
<h3>bob mcalister answers:</h3>
<p class="pocd-content">Here in N.C. When I put metal roofing on,I try to cover any ventilation hole with fiberglass screen wire,using staples to hold it in place.If I feel as though,one layer will not be enough to do the job,I will double the layer.From your question,if the places you are looking through is close to any place where water can get into my house,the builder should be held responsible for any water damage to your home.But if it&#8217;s only way out in the overhang,this is what I would do for it,because it allowes air into the attic.</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="pocd-faq">
<div class="question">
<div class="asker">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/plugins/pageonecontentdynamo/headshots/David.png" width="80" height="80" /></p>
<p class="name">David asks…</p>
</div>
<div class="pocd-content">
<h2>Is it wrong to fill bamboo poles with cement?</h2>
<p>We installed bamboo fencing on our garden to add height to our outdoor wall. when rain falls, the poles get filled with water. We thought of placing an improvised <strong>metal</strong> roofing on it as what we see on other <strong>houses</strong>&#8216; fencing but we thought it will make the fence&#8217;s look a lot awful. So we decided to fill each poles with concrete. will this do harm to the quality of the poles? Is it wrong to fill bamboo poles with cement?</p>
</div>
</div>
<p><!--more-->
<div class="answer">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/bob.png" /></p>
<h3>bob mcalister answers:</h3>
<p class="pocd-content">Filling them with cement or like material will keep any moisture trapped in there and also weight them down. Fill them with lightweight expanding foam and after it is completely dry you can cut away the excess so it looks the same</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="pocd-faq">
<div class="question">
<div class="asker">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/plugins/pageonecontentdynamo/headshots/Charles.png" width="80" height="80" /></p>
<p class="name">Charles asks…</p>
</div>
<div class="pocd-content">
<h2>What are the pros and cons of a steel roof, and how would you waterproof the inside to reduce condensation?</h2>
<p>I have a steel roof on my house, with a plastic sheeting as waterproofing, however the condensation runs down the sheet and drips onto the upstairs ceiling.</p>
</div>
</div>
<p><!--more-->
<div class="answer">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/bob.png" /></p>
<h3>bob mcalister answers:</h3>
<p class="pocd-content">It sounds like a shockingly bad roof! Sheet metal is often used because it comes in large pieces and can be quickly/easily assembled. And steel, aluminium or zinc will last for decades, if not centuries! But metal roofs are quite sophisticated these days. In your case the warm, moist air from your house is meeting the cold surface of the roof, rapidly reaching its &#8216;dew point&#8217; and condensing as water. </p>
<p>If you insulate your roof, you need to make sure the insulation is waterproofed, otherwise it will get wet too and stop being effective. Normally a roof structure would also have a vapour barrier of some sort, to stop damp air reaching the roof structure in the first place.</p>
<p>So it is not just a case of sticking some insulation up there. I would also suggest you get an expert, such as a builder, to sort out the problem.</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="pocd-faq">
<div class="question">
<div class="asker">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/plugins/pageonecontentdynamo/headshots/Susan.png" width="80" height="80" /></p>
<p class="name">Susan asks…</p>
</div>
<div class="pocd-content">
<h2>Bank of America won&#8217;t refinance our house although we have a first and second mortgage with them now.?</h2>
<p>Our property is a unique home, made of steel with a <strong>metal</strong> roof, finished out normally inside with 2&#215;4 walls, etc on 10 acres, but because there are no homes similar in the area that have sold in the last 6 months, they won&#8217;t refinance.  It appraised <strong>for</strong> $200,000. We&#8217;re only asking <strong>for</strong> $116,000?  What has changed ?  They have our 1st and 2nd now.  They say it has nothing to do with our credit rating, it&#8217;s fine.</p>
</div>
</div>
<p><!--more-->
<div class="answer">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/bob.png" /></p>
<h3>bob mcalister answers:</h3>
<p class="pocd-content">Welcome to recession!  Sorry to say, but real estate has practically kicked the bucket, and barely anyone can re-finance anymore.</p>
<p>Welcome to the new America!</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="pocd-faq">
<div class="question">
<div class="asker">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/plugins/pageonecontentdynamo/headshots/Betty.png" width="80" height="80" /></p>
<p class="name">Betty asks…</p>
</div>
<div class="pocd-content">
<h2>need to install gutters whats the best type?</h2>
<p>we need to install gutters on our roof but the roof is <strong>metal</strong>. what is the best type of gutter <strong>for</strong> a <strong>metal</strong> roof. we do have snow blockers up so the snow won&#8217;t damage the gutter. also where the house and garage meet its a valley and when it rains the rain comes off there like putting to fire engine hoses up there. really not sure any gutter could handle the amount or force plus it definelty would over shoot the gutter what can we do</p>
</div>
</div>
<p><!--more-->
<div class="answer">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/bob.png" /></p>
<h3>bob mcalister answers:</h3>
<p class="pocd-content">RainTrax  is the best gutter ever made. View it on the net.  It is vinyl  5 inch with rubber seals on all of its fittings.  This is a very superior product.  It is for the self installer.  These are defenitely a lifetime gutter,  Not some kind of plastic junk sold by Lowes or Home depot.  </p>
<p>Menards handles that gutter. </p>
<p>On an overshoot of a gutter,  this is not a huge problem because it is temporary  and the ground around can handle a temporary dousing of water.  </p>
<p>Its that constant rain that is the culpret and needs to be drained off with a gutter so its doesnt saturate the ground around the foundation.  </p>
<p>Its very common for a huge downpour to overload a gutter.</p>
</div>
</div>
<p><small>Powered by Yahoo! Answers</small></p>
]]></content:encoded>
			<wfw:commentRss>http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/your-questions-about-metal-roofs-for-houses-10/feed/</wfw:commentRss>
		<slash:comments>0</slash:comments>
		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Your Questions About Roofing Shingles</title>
		<link>http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/your-questions-about-roofing-shingles-4/</link>
		<comments>http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/your-questions-about-roofing-shingles-4/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sun, 12 May 2013 11:07:03 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>bob mcalister</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Topics]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/your-questions-about-roofing-shingles-4/</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Ruth asks… How to fix roof shingles in my house due to roof leakage? I saw this morning that my [...]]]></description>
				<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div class="pocd-faq">
<div class="question">
<div class="asker">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/plugins/pageonecontentdynamo/headshots/Ruth.png" width="80" height="80" /></p>
<p class="name">Ruth asks…</p>
</div>
<div class="pocd-content">
<h2>How to fix roof shingles in my house due to roof leakage?</h2>
<p>I saw this morning that my roof shingle is a little off now. I think it is because of roof leakage. What should I do about it?</p>
</div>
</div>
<p><span id="more-1244"></span>
<div class="answer">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/bob.png" /></p>
<h3>bob mcalister answers:</h3>
<p class="pocd-content">Maybe you should fix it</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="pocd-faq">
<div class="question">
<div class="asker">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/plugins/pageonecontentdynamo/headshots/Mark.png" width="80" height="80" /></p>
<p class="name">Mark asks…</p>
</div>
<div class="pocd-content">
<h2>Where can I purchase roofing shingle tabs by the truck load?</h2>
<p>I live in east Texas and have a driveway off the main road that is over one half mile long and about fifteen feet wide. I want to lay down <strong>roofing</strong> shingle tabs instead of paving the drive with asphalt or pouring concrete but I am having a difficult time finding them. Where can I purchase these by the truckload and have them delivered?</p>
</div>
</div>
<p><!--more-->
<div class="answer">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/bob.png" /></p>
<h3>bob mcalister answers:</h3>
<p class="pocd-content">Paving your road with asphalt shingles? You live in East Texas all right. Yippee-ki-yi-yay.</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="pocd-faq">
<div class="question">
<div class="asker">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/plugins/pageonecontentdynamo/headshots/Robert.png" width="80" height="80" /></p>
<p class="name">Robert asks…</p>
</div>
<div class="pocd-content">
<h2>Why are the majority of domestic buildings and homes shingled with dark colored roof shingles?</h2>
<p>It seems to me that a lighter colored roof shingle would attract less heat making it cheaper to cool.</p>
</div>
</div>
<p><!--more-->
<div class="answer">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/bob.png" /></p>
<h3>bob mcalister answers:</h3>
<p class="pocd-content">Half the nation reaches -10 degree F at least one a year. In winter those black shingles absorb more heat in the cold. In the northern parts of the US it is beneficial to have black shingles. </p>
<p>Also most good shingles are made of tar, which is black unless treated to be another color. Tar is used because it doesn&#8217;t freeze and it is cheap. A fiberglass or vinyl shingle would pull together in the cold and crack apart. Wood isn&#8217;t as strong, cost competitive wood shakes would only survive a couple years.   </p>
<p>Between those two black shingles have gone everywhere. Because it is what people are familiar with.</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="pocd-faq">
<div class="question">
<div class="asker">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/plugins/pageonecontentdynamo/headshots/Helen.png" width="80" height="80" /></p>
<p class="name">Helen asks…</p>
</div>
<div class="pocd-content">
<h2>How to distinguish asbestos roof shingles ?</h2>
<p>how do i distinguish asbestos roof <strong>shingles</strong> from other <strong>shingles</strong>?<br />
by smell, touch, feel, sight, label or etc???</p>
</div>
</div>
<p><!--more-->
<div class="answer">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/bob.png" /></p>
<h3>bob mcalister answers:</h3>
<p class="pocd-content">The fibers can easily be identified under a microscope.  Check with an old roofer &#8211; he&#8217;ll tell you if it&#8217;s asbestos just by looking&#8230; Otherwise, If you know the year the roof was put on, you may be able to reasonably rule out asbestos.  </p>
<p>You can probably get free asbestos testing from the city, but it can lead to VERY expensive abatement.  If you don&#8217;t have to mess with it don&#8217;t.</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="pocd-faq">
<div class="question">
<div class="asker">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/plugins/pageonecontentdynamo/headshots/Sharon.png" width="80" height="80" /></p>
<p class="name">Sharon asks…</p>
</div>
<div class="pocd-content">
<h2>Is there a product that I can apply to my asphalt roof shingles that will make the last longer ?</h2>
<p>I live in an area of extreme heat in the summer that is hard on the roofs <strong>shingles</strong>.</p>
</div>
</div>
<p><!--more-->
<div class="answer">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/bob.png" /></p>
<h3>bob mcalister answers:</h3>
<p class="pocd-content">Not likely. If anyone made such a product, even if it was a scam, it would be sold in Home Centers, and I have never seen anything.</p>
</div>
</div>
<p><small>Powered by Yahoo! Answers</small></p>
]]></content:encoded>
			<wfw:commentRss>http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/your-questions-about-roofing-shingles-4/feed/</wfw:commentRss>
		<slash:comments>0</slash:comments>
		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Your Questions About Metal Roofing Shingles</title>
		<link>http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/your-questions-about-metal-roofing-shingles-5/</link>
		<comments>http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/your-questions-about-metal-roofing-shingles-5/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sat, 11 May 2013 11:07:02 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>bob mcalister</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Topics]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/your-questions-about-metal-roofing-shingles-5/</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Linda asks… Is there a good site to find information on Market Studies? I&#8217;m trying to do a market study [...]]]></description>
				<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div class="pocd-faq">
<div class="question">
<div class="asker">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/plugins/pageonecontentdynamo/headshots/Linda.png" width="80" height="80" /></p>
<p class="name">Linda asks…</p>
</div>
<div class="pocd-content">
<h2>Is there a good site to find information on Market Studies?</h2>
<p>I&#8217;m trying to do a market study on the number of <strong>roofing</strong> <strong>shingles</strong> sold per year in the USA. Does anyone have an idea were I can find this information?</p>
</div>
</div>
<p><span id="more-1243"></span>
<div class="answer">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/bob.png" /></p>
<h3>bob mcalister answers:</h3>
<p class="pocd-content">These search terms have been highlighted: roofing shingles sold per year<br />
Page 1<br />
Construction, Demolition, and Industrial Waste Research<br />
Summary<br />
May 2006<br />
Waste Characterization Studies<br />
USEPA<br />
• Characterization of Building-Related Construction and Demolition<br />
Debris in the US<br />
USEPA June 1998<br />
Study looked at C&amp;D generated in the country and summarized the waste<br />
management practices for this waste stream. The methodology was to<br />
combine Census Bureau data (construction and demolition permits and<br />
construction value) on construction industry activities and point source waste<br />
assessment data. The study found per capita generation to be 2.8 lb per<br />
person per day. 43%c of waste from residential sources and 57 % from<br />
nonresidential. Building demolition account for 48%, renovations account for<br />
44% and 8% from construction sites.<br />
California<br />
• Statewide Waste Characterization Study<br />
December 2004<br />
Cascadia Consulting Group<br />
A waste sort was completed using a stratified random sampling methodology.<br />
Waste was sampled from a number of subgroups to develop a waste<br />
composition profile for each stratum. In the C&amp;D area, the data reflects the<br />
total amounts of these material types disposed, regardless of activity<br />
generating the material. The amounts listed in the C&amp;D material class<br />
cannot be used as an estimate of the total amount of C&amp;D material disposed<br />
in CA.<br />
Wisconsin</p>
<p>http://dnr.wi.gov/org/aw/wm/condemo/index.htm</p>
<p>• 2003 waste characterization study<br />
The study showed that C&amp;D comprise 28.7% of wastes landfilled in WI or<br />
850,000 tons per year. Leading C&amp;D waste streams are untreated wood,<br />
roofing shingles, and rock, concrete and brick combined.<br />
Complete report found at</p>
<p>http://www.dnr.state.wi.us/org/aw/wm/publications</p>
<p>Page 2<br />
Ohio<br />
Waste Characterization summary—little info on NonMSW<br />
Missouri<br />
Missouri Waste Composition Study<br />
Iowa<br />
Pennsylvania<br />
www.dep.state.pa.us/dep/deputate/airwaste/wm/recycle/Waste_Com/Exec_<br />
Sum.pdf<br />
2001 MSW characterization study completed by RW Beck using waste<br />
generation indicators such as population, employment, number of<br />
households, average municipal waste disposal rates collected from<br />
communities delivering their waste to facilities that hosted sorts. Residential<br />
and commercial sectors were targeted. Findings related to C&amp;D include wood<br />
was 5.8% of the waste stream and other C&amp;D was 4.8%.<br />
Florida<br />
www.dep.state.fl.us/waste/quick_types/publications/shw/recycling/candd/CD<br />
%20report%205-8.pdf<br />
• C&amp;D Debris Recycling Study: Final Report<br />
Florida Department of Environmental Protection.<br />
Volume based composition study sponsored by the Florida Center for Solid<br />
and Hazardous Waste Management found that dimensional wood (44%),<br />
cardboard (11%), gypsum wallboard (8%), and roofing shingles (6%)<br />
account for over 2/3 of C&amp;D debris by volume. Weight based studies are<br />
underway. In 1998, FL generated 25 million tons of MSW and C&amp;D<br />
accounted for 5.9 million tons or 25% of the total. Large fractions of C&amp;D,<br />
especially from transportation are not included in the total. Total amount of<br />
C&amp;D generated is estimated at 9.4 million cubic yards. 36% of this was<br />
recovered and reused or recycled into:<br />
o Crushed concrete and brick for road construction, drainage<br />
o Concrete, block, masonry, and other clean debris used as borrow pit<br />
fill<br />
o Concrete brick washout used to make onsite containing walls and bins<br />
o Reusable building supplies such as lumber and whole bricks<br />
o Remanufacture of wood chips into engineered wood<br />
o Wood fuels used in co-generation plants and industrial boilers<br />
o Horticultural mulches made from natural woody material<br />
o Dyed, decorative mulches made from construction debris wood<br />
o Wood chips used as bulking agents in biosolids, compost, animal<br />
bedding<br />
o Planks and other dimensional lumber sawn from whole trees<br />
Page 3<br />
o Corrugated cardboard containers<br />
o Metals (Steel, aluminum other nonferrous)<br />
o Recovered screened material for approved uses<br />
o Processed C&amp;D debris used as daily cover<br />
Florida statutes have few substantive provisions that promote C&amp;D debris<br />
recycling. These include that C&amp;D debris must be separated from other MSW<br />
during disposal, and an exemption from solid waste permitting for clean<br />
debris used as fill. Disincentives include restriction on the amount of C&amp;D<br />
recycling that can be applied to the recycling goal, definition and regulation<br />
of covered materials, which excludes most C&amp;D, and that C&amp;D disposal is<br />
cheap as liners are not required at landfills.<br />
A number of options exist for government to promote the recycling and reuse<br />
of C&amp;D:<br />
o Open market for C&amp;D debris collection<br />
o Enact a “Recyclable Construction and Demolition Debris bill<br />
o Require C&amp;D to be processed before disposal (MA)<br />
o Require liners for C&amp;D disposal facilities<br />
o Provide sales tax exemption for recycling equipment<br />
o Provide grants to local governments to improve C&amp;D debris recycling<br />
o Provide low interest loans to recycling businesses<br />
o Provide grants directly to private recycling companies</p>
<p>http://www.floridatrend.com/issue/default.asp?a+4198&#038;s=l&#038;d=11/1/2000</p>
<p>• Dumped On<br />
Florida Trend article, November 2000.<br />
Publications<br />
• Waste Age<br />
http://www.wasteage.com/ : articles available<br />
• Trend Setters: Recovering C&amp;D</p>
<p>http://wasteage.com/mag/waste_trend_setters_recovering/index.html</p>
<p>Communities in California have instituted several C&amp;D recovery policies and<br />
practices. Many of them are summarized. E.g. In Atherton contractors are<br />
required to submit a Recycling and Waste Reduction Form to the town&#8217;s<br />
Building Department when applying for a building or demolition permit. The<br />
form estimates recyclable and disposable materials quantities that the<br />
project will produce, and the contractor is required to post a cash deposit of<br />
$50 for each ton of recyclable material, equaling no less than $5,000.<br />
• Reduce And Recycle That Rubble<br />
Page 4</p>
<p>http://wasteage.com/mag/waste_reduce_recycle_rubble/index.html</p>
<p>At the Regional Collection Center (RCC) project&#8217;s end, more than 30 tons of<br />
concrete and cement block were separated for reuse as fill material by a local<br />
business. More than 2.5 tons of scrap wood were collected and recycled by<br />
Andrew Pallet Co., Des Moines. The Alter Scrap Metal Co., also of Des<br />
Moines, received 1.25 tons of scrap metal (ferrous/nonferrous) from the RCC<br />
project. Finally, more than a half a ton of cardboard was collected and later<br />
recycled by a local processor.<br />
MWA staff later calculated that their hauling and disposal budget was cut by<br />
more than one-third due to recycling.<br />
For more information on MWA&#8217;s Build It! SMART (Save Materials And Recycle<br />
Today) program, contact: Kevin Officer, Environmental Specialist, MWA, 521<br />
E. Locust St., Des Moines, Iowa 50309-1911. (515) 244-0021. Fax: (515)<br />
244-9477. Other contacts are also available in the article.<br />
• Recycling C&amp;D in the Flight for Landfill Space</p>
<p>http://wasteage.com/mag/waste_recycling_cd_flight/index.html</p>
<p>Some landfills also do recycling for their own interest. Some examples are<br />
listed. “When the company opened its new C&amp;D landfill in Dothan, it<br />
immediately installed a large grinder on-site and instructed workers to<br />
separate most of the incoming wood and process it into boiler fuel. Metal and<br />
clean old corrugated cardboard (OCC) also are separated. The remaining<br />
waste is run through the grinder for a 6-to-1 volume reduction before<br />
heading for the landfill.”<br />
• C&amp;D Recycling Report</p>
<p>http://wasteage.com/mag/waste_guides_19/index.html</p>
<p>May 01, 2004, Waste Age, BY REBEKAH A. HALL<br />
The National Association of Demolition Contractors (NADC), Doylestown, Pa.,<br />
has published “Demolition Industry Promotes C&amp;D Recycling” to encourage<br />
the development of a national construction and demolition (C&amp;D) recycling<br />
policy. The paper details how different states deal with C&amp;D waste and<br />
highlights current barriers to recycling the material. To order a free copy,<br />
visit www.nadc.org (note, the homepage currently is<br />
http://www.demolitionassociation.com , but I couldn’t find this report) or call<br />
(800) 541-2412.<br />
• Moving and Shaking</p>
<p>http://wasteage.com/mag/waste_moving_shaking/index.html</p>
<p>Oct 1, 2005 12:00 PM by Michael R. Taylor<br />
Page 5<br />
Some examples of forces affecting the growth of the C&amp;D recycling industry<br />
in some states<br />
• Tackling C&amp;D Waste:</p>
<p>http://wasteage.com/mag/waste_tackling_cd_waste/index.html</p>
<p>Dec 1, 2005 12:00 PM BY STEPHEN URSERY<br />
An article about C&amp;D recycling ordinance of San Diego and Chicago’s effort to<br />
reach 50% recycling by 2007.<br />
• Waste News</p>
<p>http://www.wastenews.com/headlines.html</p>
<p>Short summaries are available, to read the articles a subscription required.<br />
• Recycling Today Magazine<br />
Registration required (free)</p>
<p>http://www.recyclingtoday.com/categories/subcategory.asp?CatID=7</p>
<p>• Construction &amp; Demolition Recycling<br />
http://www.cdrecycler.com/magazine : articles available.<br />
• State of the Industry</p>
<p>http://www.cdrecycler.com/articles/article.asp?ID=4844&#038;AdKeyword=C%26</p>
<p>D+recycling<br />
Four major challenges C&amp;D industry faces this year: Disposal Ban in<br />
Massachusetts (the ban covers concrete, asphalt, brick, wood, metals and old<br />
corrugated containers), Changing the definition of Solid Waste in Florida<br />
(they plan to remove C&amp;D from the solid waste definition), Revision to Ohio’s<br />
C&amp;D regulation, Issue about gypsum wallboard made from flue gas de-<br />
sulphurization (recycling is a problem because it contains mercury and EPA<br />
made a “bad rule because it was overprotected” which “is killing the C&amp;D<br />
recycling opportunity”).<br />
• MSW Management http://www.gradingandexcavating.com/msw.html<br />
Articles available.<br />
• BioCycle</p>
<p>http://www.jgpress.com/biocycle.htm</p>
<p>Some articles are free, but most of them require subscription.<br />
Organizations<br />
www.floridacenter.org<br />
(4/5/2006)<br />
Page 6<br />
• Implementing Deconstruction in Florida: Materials Reuse Issues,<br />
Disassembly Techniques, Economics and Policy<br />
Charles Kibert, 6/00, #00-05 (2,114 Kb, 112 pages).</p>
<p>Http://www.floridacenter.org/publications/Kibert.pdf</p>
<p>• Recommended Management Practices for the Removal of Hazardous<br />
Materials from Buildings Prior to Demolition<br />
T. Townsend, 8/04, #0232009-04 (1.3 Mb, 65 pages).</p>
<p>Http://www.floridacenter.org/publications/Demo_Guide_04_FINAL.pdf</p>
<p>(2004).<br />
• Contamination of Sediments in Street Sweepings and Stormwater<br />
Systems: Pollutant Composition and sediment Reuse Options<br />
Johan Leibens, 1/01, #00-10. (940 Kb, 73 pages)</p>
<p>http://www.floridacenter.org/publications/leibens00-10.pdf</p>
<p>• Disposal and Reuse Options for Used Sandblasting Grit Timothy<br />
Townsend, 5/97, #97-8 (summary only, 13 Kb, 4 pages). For more<br />
information on this subject, please visit Dr. Townsend&#8217;s solid waste page.</p>
<p>Http://www.floridacenter.org/publications/exec_97-8.pdf</p>
<p>• Synopsis of Report: Building for the Future: Strategies to Reduce<br />
Construction and Demolition Waste in Municipal Projects<br />
Bette K. Fishbein, June 1998.<br />
The article identifies strategies that have been used around the country to<br />
reduce C&amp;D waste during design, construction, and demolition phases of<br />
municipal building projects. The strategies include reusing existing buildings,<br />
extending building lifetime through effective maintenance, designing<br />
buildings to accommodate new functions and technologies, incorporating<br />
durable, reusable materials into design plans, and deconstructing buildings<br />
rather than tearing them down.<br />
Http://www,informinc.org/buildfor future.php<br />
Other States/Cities/Counties<br />
Construction Waste<br />
General<br />
• Great Lakes Pollution Prevention Roundtable<br />
Sector Sources: Construction and Demolition<br />
Page 7<br />
List of and links to conferences, funding opportunities, documents, expert<br />
contacts, and questions.<br />
• Construction and demolition Recycling<br />
Institution Recycling Network, Wastemiser, waste management<br />
List of resources on C&amp;D including sample specifications for C&amp;D recycling.<br />
• Recycling Construction and Demolition Wastes: A Guide for<br />
Architects and Contractors<br />
April 2005 by Mark Lennon, Institution Recycling Network<br />
Document provides detailed info on C&amp;D recycling including “nuts and bolts”,<br />
barriers and response, waste management plans, cases studies, and new<br />
products from C&amp;D.<br />
Excellent reference—not fully printed out.<br />
USACOE<br />
• Concepts for Reuse and Recycling of Construction and Demolition<br />
Waste<br />
USACERL Technical Report 97/58 June 1999<br />
The report identifies primary opportunities, constraints and means to diver<br />
C&amp;D debris from the solid waste stream, evaluates C&amp;D material recycling<br />
technologies and materials, identifies construction materials from existing<br />
facilities that may be more directly salvaged or reused without substantial<br />
alteration or reprocessing, and developed guidelines that project managers<br />
can use to organize a construction project recycling program.<br />
SWANA Website E-Library<br />
• The Challenge of C&amp;D: A Diversion Ordinance for Your Toolbox<br />
Young, Rufus C., Esq., Burke, Williams, &amp; Sorenson, LLP, San Diego, CA.<br />
Model C&amp;D recycling ordinance is provided based on California state law and<br />
regulations.<br />
• Recycling of Decommissioned CCA-Treated wood into Value-Added<br />
Engineered Wood Products<br />
Shupe, Todd F. And Chung Y. Hse<br />
Research on the recycling of CCA-treated wood for production of structural<br />
flakeboard was examined and a ratio of 50% treated wood with 50%<br />
untreated wood was the optimum combination for this use.<br />
• Life Beyond the Landfill<br />
Page 8<br />
Dugan, Kevin H., Collier County Solid Waste Management Department,<br />
Naples, FL<br />
Collier County has adopted a policy of diverting all C&amp;D material from its<br />
Class I landfill to prolong its useful life. Concrete material is used to build<br />
artificial reefs.<br />
• Operation of a Construction and Demolition /debris Processing<br />
System in /St. Lucie County, FL: A Case Study<br />
Grothe, Eric J., Vann, Kevin N., and Leo J. Cordiero<br />
The processing facility utilizes screens, conveyors, an air separator, manual<br />
sorting stations, and rotary shear grinder to process and recover recyclable<br />
materials. The county also plans to mine the existing landfill to regain<br />
capacity and deliver recyclables. 70 to 80 % of the total C&amp;D waste stream<br />
is recycled through the processing operation. The landfill life is estimated to<br />
double to 45 years and 50% of its volume will be recovered. A mobile<br />
screening system is used in the landfill recovery. Wastes not separated or<br />
sorted at the processing facility are ground and disposed of in the C&amp;D<br />
landfill.<br />
• Processing Construction and Demolition Debris as a Business<br />
Larochelle, Leo R. And Byron Philbrick<br />
This article describes the Environmental Resource Return Corp (ERRCO) C&amp;D<br />
processing facility in Epping, NH. The facility includes multiple picking<br />
stations, shredders, floatation tanks and screens. 600 tons per day is<br />
processed.<br />
Washington State<br />
www.metrokc.gov/dnrp/swd/construction-recycling/calculate.asp<br />
• Cost-Effectiveness of Jobsite Recycling<br />
Provides guidelines for construction waste recycling at the jobsite. Recycling<br />
fees are generally less than disposal in King County, WA.<br />
Www.metrokc.gov/drnp/swd/construction-recycling/specs-plans.asp<br />
• King County Solid Waste Division<br />
• Design Specifications and Waste Management Plans. Provides<br />
information on project design to promote recycling. Refers to example design<br />
specifications, waste management plans, and subcontractor agreements.<br />
California</p>
<p>http://www.ciwmb.ca.gov/lglibray/CandDmodel/Instruction/SB1374.htm</p>
<p>Page 9<br />
California adopted a law in 2002 to promote the diversion of C&amp;D wastes from<br />
landfills through developing a model ordinance and requiring counties to provide<br />
annual progress reports on the diversion of C&amp;D wastes. Their website provides the<br />
model ordinance (to divert 50 to 75% of the waste) and ordinances from counties<br />
and cities that have developed and adopted the ordinances. The programs are<br />
primarily<br />
The website provides a guide for jurisdictions on how to develop a C&amp;D ordinance.<br />
• California Integrated Waste Management Board Model Construction<br />
and Demolition Diversion Ordinance</p>
<p>http://www.ciowmb.ca.gov/lglibrary/canddmodel/modelord.doc</p>
<p>50-75% of the waste tonnage from a construction, demolition or renovation<br />
project shall be diverted from disposal. Projects on which this is required<br />
can include the cost of the project, the square footage; the program is based<br />
on a diversion deposit and a Waste Management Plan. The Waste<br />
Management Plan must be submitted with the volumes/amounts to be<br />
diverted, the hauler, the facilities, the expected diversion rates, and the<br />
amount to be disposed. The plan must be approved before a<br />
building/demolition permit is issued. The diversion deposit can be based on<br />
an amount of waste, square footage, project cost, fixed amount, etc. It is<br />
returned when reporting shows the plan has been met. Onsite practices and<br />
enforcement are also addressed in the model ordinance.<br />
A number of jurisdictions have developed ordinances and these are on the<br />
web page. These include Atherton, Berkeley, Castro Valley, Cotati, Fortuna,<br />
Half Moon Bay, La Habra, Laguna Hills, Palo Alto, Oakland, /Sacramento, San<br />
Francisco, San Jose, Santa Monica, Santa Rosa, and Willits. Counties include<br />
Contra Costa, and San Mateo. Other sample ordinances are also included.<br />
Discussion with Greg Dick of CIWMB (916 341-6489) indicates that all<br />
jurisdictions in CA must recycle 50 % of all solid waste or the state takes<br />
enforcement action. C&amp;D recycling compliance was given time extensions,<br />
but this will soon be up. He indicated that each county establishes a baseline<br />
and then must report the amount of recycling done each year as a result of<br />
the implementation of their ordinance. Alameda County in the Bay area has<br />
established a recycling rate of 75% and provides additional technical<br />
assistance to the municipalities in their county.<br />
• Chapter 8.58 Construction and Demolition Debris Diversion Program.<br />
City of Glendale, CA.<br />
Www.ci.glendale.ca.us/gmc/8.58.asp<br />
City of Glendale<br />
Page 10<br />
Building and demolition permits require a diversion rate of 50 percent for all<br />
covered projects. Plan must be submitted along with a fee and diversion<br />
security deposits, which is returned upon plan compliance.<br />
North Carolina<br />
• Do It Yourself Construction Recycling<br />
Guidance from Mecklesburg County, NC.<br />
Www.charmeck.org/Departments/LUESA/Solid+Waste/Construction+Recyclin<br />
g/.<br />
• Become an Accredited Professional in Construction and Demolition<br />
Waste Management and Recycling<br />
www.wgba.org/artman/publish/article_378.shtml<br />
Wastecap training program for 5/2/06.<br />
Iowa<br />
Construction Waste Assessment: A Case study of the South Central Iowa Solid<br />
Waste Agency Environmental Center. January 2004. Compared construction waste<br />
recycling rates with those of USEPA study conducted in a 4 county area in IA.<br />
Considered barriers to recycling—lack of available markets, distance from<br />
processors, and cost of landfilling is cheaper than recycling. Found source<br />
reduction as most efficient.<br />
Minnesota<br />
• Information on C&amp;D recycling in MN from MOEA.<br />
Www.moea.state.mn.us/res/V_9/barriers.cfm<br />
• C&amp;D Waste: Reduce, Reuse, and Recycle<br />
www.moea.state.mn.us/greenbuilding/waste.cfm<br />
Describes C&amp;D recycling opportunities including the Minnesota Sustainable<br />
Design Guide, recycling markets directory, construction waste reduction<br />
opportunities, model deconstruction policy, and other resources.<br />
• Construction and Demolition Landfill Recovery/Reuse Site Model<br />
MNTAP website: www.mntap.umn.edu<br />
Based on cooperative venture in Becker and Clay Counties in 2003. Provides<br />
a four-step model for landfills.<br />
Massachusetts<br />
Page 11<br />
• Mass. Ban on C&amp;D Too Be Implemented</p>
<p>http://recyclingtoday.texterity.com/recyclingtoday/200510/templates/pagevi</p>
<p>ewer?pm<br />
Article on proposed ban on certain C&amp;D wastes in MA on 10/05.<br />
• Looking for a Big Bargain?<br />
Parade Magazine: www.parade.com<br />
Describes materials exchange programs and their benefits.<br />
Connecticut<br />
• Construction and Demolition Waste</p>
<p>http://www.dep.state.ct.us/wst/recycle/candd.htm</p>
<p>Description of C&amp;D waste, legal classifications, disposal options, list of fact<br />
sheets.<br />
Wisconsin<br />
• Wastecap WI<br />
Call with Shannon Delaney, Outreach Specialist. She described WasteCap as<br />
a nonprofit funded by state grants, memberships and service charges. They<br />
provide construction and demo recycling services for all types of construction<br />
and demolition. They are effective as they reduce the cost for the builder and<br />
contractors as compared to disposal. As of April 11, 2006, the Governor of<br />
WI requires that all state building or construction must incorporate recycling.<br />
• WasteCap Wisconsin Construction and Demolition Waste<br />
Management Services<br />
Describes WasteCap’s services for planning, t3echnical and education<br />
assistance for construction and demolition projects. This includes<br />
monitoring, measures, and documentation of efforts. Results of some<br />
projects are provided such as Harley-Davidson Products in Milwaukee, WI<br />
where there was a 76% recycling by weight and disposed costs reduced by<br />
40%.<br />
• Rethinking Debris<br />
The Industry: Construction and Demolition Waste Reduction and<br />
Recycling Tips<br />
Article from WI DNR states that WI prohibits some metals, glass containers,<br />
and cardboard from landfills and encourages recycling of four other materials<br />
Page 12<br />
from the C&amp;D waste streams—wood, drywall, paper, and metals.<br />
Suggestions are provided on how to prevent generation of these wastes and<br />
better manage the wastes generated. Short case studies provided.<br />
Illinois<br />
• Construction and Demolition Site Recycling Directory</p>
<p>http://www..epa.state.il.us/small-business/construction-debris/</p>
<p>This website provides basic information on C&amp;D debris management in IL.<br />
Recycling is encouraged and technical guidance is provided in the document<br />
available from Illinois EPA.<br />
• Illinois Waste Management and Research Center<br />
Green Development and Construction Program</p>
<p>http://wmrc.uiuc.edu/main_sections/tech_assist/green_development.cfm</p>
<p>Provides info on technical assistance provided by WMRC including Green<br />
Building, C&amp;D recycling, how to develop a program—specifications of Section<br />
01010 Project Sustainability Goals and Section 01505 Construction Waste<br />
Management. Green Building links are included.<br />
Chicago, IL<br />
• http://www.newrules.org/environment/chicago.html<br />
Comprehensive summary of relevant rules, with links to City of Chicago<br />
website. Rules were approved on 12/15/04 requiring C&amp;D recycling. 25% of<br />
all materials by weight must be recycled after 3/1/06. This increases to 50<br />
% on 1/1/07. Contractors must submit info demonstrating their compliance<br />
in order to obtain their certificate of occupancy as determined by the Dept. Of<br />
Environment. Fines are also provided for.<br />
• City of Chicago C&amp;D Best Management Practices</p>
<p>http://egov.cityofchicago.org/webportal/COCWebPortal/COC_ATTACH/ConstB</p>
<p>estMgmtPractices2.pdf<br />
This includes site cleanliness, construction site recycling, and best<br />
management practices.<br />
Vermont<br />
• Reducing Vermont’s Construction Waste</p>
<p>http://www.anr.state.vt.us/dec/wastediv/recycling/CandD.htm</p>
<p>Page 13<br />
Websites with information to prevent and reduce waste generated during<br />
construction. These include: Planning for Waste Reduction, Jobsite Case<br />
Studies, C&amp;D Reports, VT Green Building Network, and Contract<br />
Specifications.<br />
USEPA<br />
• Building Strategies: Strategies for Waste Reduction of C&amp;D Debris<br />
from Buildings<br />
USEPA-530-F-00-001, June 2000.<br />
Provides general info on C&amp;D recycling, information on model programs, and<br />
some case studies such as an apartment building, corporate headquarters,<br />
and office tower.<br />
• RCRA in Focus: Construction, Demolition, and Renovation<br />
EPA-530-04-005 September 2004<br />
Document provides basic info on C&amp;C management including identifying<br />
hazardous waste and waste reduction techniques, applicable environmental<br />
laws, and contacts.<br />
Waste Streams<br />
• Street Sweepings—see Hiway Recycling fact sheet on C&amp;D for link to specs.<br />
General<br />
• MnDOT Waste Products in Highway Construction<br />
April 1993<br />
Information on fly ash reuse is provided.<br />
• MPCA. Solid Waste Utilization—Standing Beneficial Use<br />
Determinations<br />
www.pca.state.mn.us/waste/swutil/sbud.html<br />
Provides a list of MN standing beneficial uses—wood, newspaper, glass, latex<br />
paint, porcelain fixtures, crumb rubber, tire shreds, tire chips, concrete,<br />
bituminous, coal combustion slag, fly ash, foundry sands, uncontaminated<br />
by-product limes, MOSS and tear off shingle scarp and the conditions under<br />
which they may be reused.<br />
Gypsum<br />
• National Gypsum Company Wallboard Calculator</p>
<p>http://www.nationalgypsum.com/resources/wbcalculator.html</p>
<p>Page 14<br />
Online program to calculate the amount of wallboard needed for a project by<br />
dimensions.<br />
• Street Sweepings—see Hiway Recycling fact sheet on C&amp;D for link to specs.<br />
• Agricultural Gypsum</p>
<p>http://www.alliedcustomgypsum.com/ACGmark_agriculture.htm</p>
<p>This website by Allied Gypsum describes two products they have that use<br />
recycled gypsum for agricultural uses. Benefits of gypsum use are described<br />
and links are given for amounts of gypsum needed.<br />
• Beneficial Use of Solid Waste in Maine</p>
<p>http://useit.umaine.edu/materials/gypsum/beneficial_uses.htm</p>
<p>March 2006.<br />
This article reviews how recycled gypsum can be combined with new gypsum<br />
to create new wallboard. It also goes over how recycled gypsum alone can be<br />
turned into new wallboard. Other uses for gypsum include castings in the<br />
medical field and supplements in lakes and food for human or animal<br />
consumption.<br />
• Gypsum Drywall<br />
2006.</p>
<p>Http://www.cdrecycler.com/categories/detail.asp?SubCatID=87&#038;CatID=7</p>
<p>This website put out by Construction and Demolition Recycling has a variety<br />
of links about the recycling and reuse of gypsum.<br />
• Wallboard (drywall) Recycling<br />
December 2004</p>
<p>http://www.ciwmb.ca.gov/ConDemo/Wallboard/</p>
<p>This article by California construction and demolition reviews problems,<br />
economics, waste prevention, reuse, and existing markets for recycled<br />
drywall. It covers these topics fairly well and is a very informational article.<br />
• Gypsum</p>
<p>http://minerals.usgs.gov/minerals/pubs/commodity/gypsum/gypsumcs04.pd</p>
<p>f<br />
January 2004.<br />
This article was written about how much gypsum is mined each year by the<br />
U.S. And countries around the world. It gives information on amounts mined,<br />
what they were used for, and some recycling options. The article has a lot of<br />
numbers for informational values.<br />
Page 15<br />
• Innovative Gypsum Recycling Program- Now in England</p>
<p>http://www.agcmass.org/emplibrary/MassRecycler%203.14.06v.3.doc</p>
<p>Gypsum Recycling America is now accepting new gypsum wallboard and<br />
scrap for their Cambridge, Massachusetts facility. GRA will give competitive<br />
pricing schemes to contractors, disposal contractors, owners, and builders<br />
along with anyone interested in diverting new gypsum scrap away from the<br />
landfills.<br />
• Innovative Recycling and Marketing Gypsum Wallboard from C and D<br />
Waste Stream</p>
<p>http://www.dep.state.fl.us/waste/quick_topics/publications/shw/recycling/In</p>
<p>novativeGrants/IGYear7/fullprop/St.LucieProposal_05-06.pdf<br />
2005.<br />
This grant application form from the Florida Department of Environmental<br />
Protection goes over requests for grant dealing with the recycling of gypsum.<br />
The money from the grant will go to buying equipment to help with the<br />
recycling of gypsum. The process of recycling the gypsum is covered in good<br />
detail.<br />
• Emissions Factor Gypsum Manufacturing</p>
<p>http://www.epa.gov/ttn/chief/ap42/ch11/bgdocs/b11s16.pdf</p>
<p>The EPA reviews the sales of gypsum and goes over some of the policies that<br />
gypsum manufactures must follow regarding emissions from their facility.<br />
The process of how gypsum products are made is shown.<br />
• Waste Matters</p>
<p>http://www.nord.ca/services/swr/waste_matters/october_2005.pdf</p>
<p>October 2005<br />
The Regional District of North Okanagan is partnering with other<br />
organizations to build an environmental education centre. This article talks<br />
about the plans for this centre, but the important part of the article is the<br />
insert about gypsum recycling program. Okanagan recently banned any<br />
recyclable gypsum products from their landfills and expects more than 600<br />
tons of gypsum will be diverted to a recycling facility in Vancouver.<br />
• Gypsum Wallboard Recycling and Reuse Opportunities in the State of<br />
Vermont</p>
<p>http://www.p2pays.org/ref/23/22738.pdf</p>
<p>August 2000<br />
Page 16<br />
This report focuses on construction and demolition waste, particularly<br />
gypsum waste. The report talks about recycling gypsum and some<br />
alternative uses which include livestock bedding, cement production, flea<br />
powder, grease spill absorbent, and many more.<br />
• Waste Management at the Construction Site</p>
<p>http://www.pathnet.org/si.asp?id=1069</p>
<p>The paper discusses problems involved with construction and demolition<br />
waste created in the U.S. Gypsum involved in building is starting to be<br />
recycled, but many people do not recycle due to the price of new gypsum<br />
being so low.<br />
• Gypsum and Drywall Recycling</p>
<p>http://www.recycle.net/Minerals/gypsum/index.html</p>
<p>June 2006<br />
The website recyclers&#8217; world has many links to recyclers of gypsum and<br />
drywall products along with equipment that is needed to recycle gypsum<br />
products and gypsum recycling associations.<br />
• National Gypsum to Recycle Waste Wallboard</p>
<p>http://www.national-gypsum.com/about/news/2005/news170.html</p>
<p>January 2005<br />
National Gypsum Company has agreed to buy wallboard waste collected from<br />
new construction sites in Massachusetts and New Hampshire. After this<br />
program has started new programs are in going to hopefully be in the works.<br />
• New West Gypsum Recycling</p>
<p>http://www.nwgypsum.com/english/home.htm</p>
<p>2003<br />
New West Gypsum Recycling is a worldwide company with the headquarters<br />
located in Canada that deals specifically with recycling gypsum products.<br />
They have a good website that explains the entire recycling process from<br />
start to finish and tells a little about the equipment involved in the process<br />
and the environmental impacts.<br />
• Recycled Plasterboard in Agriculture Applications Receive Funding by<br />
Wrap</p>
<p>http://www.azobuild.com/news.asp?newsID=2121</p>
<p>April 2006<br />
Page 17<br />
The waste and resource program (WRAP) has received funding for two trial<br />
programs that involve using gypsum in agricultural applications. The first<br />
project would involve using recycled plasterboard for dairy cattle bedding.<br />
The second project deal with gypsum being a good soil conditioner on<br />
commercial farms.<br />
Contaminated Soil<br />
• The Reuse and Recycling of Contaminated Soils</p>
<p>http://www.grac.org/spring98/review.htm</p>
<p>By Stephen M Tesla.<br />
Review of handbook for the use and reuse of contaminated soils. Discusses<br />
field, laboratory, and engineering considerations for the many sources of<br />
contaminated soils. (Copy of review only.)<br />
• Reuse and Disposal of Contaminated Soil at Massachusetts Landfills<br />
MA Department of Environmental Protection. Policy # Comm-97-001.<br />
The policy describes allowable contaminant levels, procedures and<br />
requirements for reuse and disposal of contaminated soils at lined landfills<br />
including testing, tracking, transport or disposal of the soils. (Copy provided.)<br />
• Memo #1 Petroleum –contaminated Soil Guidance Policy</p>
<p>http://www.dec.state.ny.us/website/der/starts/pr6star1.html</p>
<p>Spill Technology and Remediation Series (STARS) provides direction on the<br />
management of petroleum-contaminated soil in NY, including beneficial<br />
reuse. This includes in hot mix asphalt as an aggregate, in cold mix asphalt,<br />
concrete, roadway subbase<br />
• Innovative Uses of Compost- Composting of Soils Contaminated by<br />
Explosives</p>
<p>http://www.epa.gov/epaoswer/non-hw/compost/explos.pdf</p>
<p>October 1997<br />
This article written by the EPA goes over how soil at ammunition sites gets<br />
contaminated. The article goes over how composting the contaminated soils<br />
clean the soil of any contaminants. The process involves microorganisms that<br />
eat the contaminants that the soil contains. After this process the soil can be<br />
used in any application normal soil would.<br />
Page 18<br />
• Land farming: Cleaning Dirty Dirt</p>
<p>http://web.missouri.edu/soilwww/290_2002/dirtydir.htm</p>
<p>This article contained information about soils that were contaminated by<br />
gasoline. It goes over how bioremediation can clean the soil and remove<br />
contaminants. Some problems with this process involve turning the<br />
contaminated soil while the composting process is talking place. This may<br />
create air problems along with odor problems.<br />
• Remediation of Radioactively Contaminated Soils</p>
<p>http://www-emtd.lanl.gov/TD/Remediation/RadioSoils.html</p>
<p>February 1996<br />
Radioactively contaminated soils can now be cleaned and used for application<br />
that regular soils would be used for. The article goes over the process of how<br />
this is possible.<br />
• Heavy Oil Contaminated Soil Purification System</p>
<p>http://www.takenaka.co.jp/takenaka_e/techno/n41_oilsoil/n41_oilsoil.htm</p>
<p>2001<br />
Bioremediation is used in the process of cleaning soil that is contaminated<br />
with heavy oils. The site goes over the process and explains how<br />
bioremediation works as a purification system.<br />
• Bioremediation</p>
<p>http://www.ersremediation.com/bio/bio.html</p>
<p>Many examples of contaminated soils cleanup are given. They also list many<br />
different contaminants and how each is treated.<br />
• Contaminated Soil Treatment, Soil Washing, Soil Cleaning, Soil<br />
Separation, and Sediment Treatment</p>
<p>http://www.art-engineering.com/Soil%20Treatment.htm</p>
<p>Website containing different cleanup sites. Pictures are shown and<br />
explanations are given as to what is happening. Very informational and<br />
pictures help visualize the processes.<br />
• Reuse and Disposal of Contaminated Soil at Massachusetts Landfills</p>
<p>http://www.mass.gov/dep/images/97-001.pdf</p>
<p>August 1997<br />
Page 19<br />
The Massachusetts Environmental Protection Agency wrote this policy to<br />
inform the public on requirements, standards, and approvals for<br />
contaminated soil use.<br />
• Phytoremediation: Using Plants to Clean Up Soils</p>
<p>http://www.ars.usda.gov/is/AR/archive/jun00/soil0600.htm</p>
<p>August 2004<br />
The USDA goes over some examples of how plants can clean up<br />
contaminated soil and then be used to create energy. The process involves<br />
growing the plants, cutting them, bailing them, and then burning them to<br />
create energy. After that the ashes can be sold as ore because of the high<br />
metal content.<br />
• A Citizens Guide to Washing Soil</p>
<p>http://www.clu-in.org/download/citizens/soilwashing.pdf</p>
<p>May 2001<br />
The EPA put out this booklet to inform the public on how soils washing works,<br />
and what some benefits of soil washing are. An illustration shows the process<br />
and how everything is done.<br />
• A Citizens Guide to Thermal Desorption</p>
<p>http://www.clu-in.org/download/citizens/citthermal.pdf</p>
<p>April 2001<br />
A booklet written by the EPA describing how desorption works and when they<br />
choose this soil cleaning method. A picture shows how everything is prepared<br />
and how the process takes place.<br />
• Lead Contaminated Soils</p>
<p>http://epa.gov/region10/leadsoil.pdf</p>
<p>August 2005<br />
The EPA created this pamphlet to inform new home owners along with<br />
owners trying to sell their property about the possibility of lead contaminated<br />
soils surrounding their homes. The soil is generally contaminated form lead<br />
based paints that were used in the past. Health risks and testing procedures<br />
are given.<br />
• They All Like It Hot: Faster Cleanup of Contaminated Soil and<br />
Groundwater</p>
<p>http://www.llnl.gov/str/pdfs/05_98.pdf</p>
<p>May 1998<br />
Page 20<br />
This in depth review goes over how soil at the Visalia superfund site was<br />
cleaned much faster than expected by using heat as a main component in<br />
the cleaning process. Aerial photos along with pictures showing how the heat<br />
treatment works are included in the review.<br />
• Contaminated Soil Disposal</p>
<p>http://www.remtech1.com/contaminated_soil_disposal.htm</p>
<p>The first fully approved soil disposal site for petroleum-contaminated soil was<br />
approved and built near Spokane International Airport in Washington.<br />
Fly Ash<br />
• State Regulation of Fly Ash Use in Subbase Stabilization and Fill for<br />
Highway Construction in the MN Region</p>
<p>http://scitation.aip.org/getabs/servlt/GetabsServlet?prog=normal&#038;id+JMCEE</p>
<p>7000015000<br />
April 2006<br />
Review of use of fly ash in MN, IL, LA, Manitoba, ND, SD, and WI. States are<br />
looking at alternative uses for fly ash in addition to cement replacement in<br />
concrete and use in aggregate for concrete or concrete products (MN). Most<br />
states have some experimentation in flowable fill and soil stabilization<br />
applications.<br />
• Reuse of Incinerator Fly Ash in Soft Soil Stabilization<br />
J. Mat. In Civil Engineering. Volume 15, Issue 4, pp335-343 July/August 2003<br />
Fly ash is a potential source of jet grouting admixture for soil. Strength is<br />
improved to more than 75 times that of untreated clay. Leaching of metals<br />
was also reviewed.<br />
Street Sweepings and Car Wash Sand Grit<br />
• Reuse &amp; Disposal of Street Sweepings<br />
www.mass.gov/dep/recycle/laws/stsweep.htm<br />
MassDEP. Policy #BWO-94-092<br />
Street sweepings can be used for daily cover at landfills, fill in public<br />
roadways, additive to restricted use compost.<br />
• Guidance Document for Management of Street Sweepings and Other<br />
Road clean Up Materials<br />
www.state.nj.us/dep/dshw/rrtp/sweeping.htm<br />
Solid and Hazardous Waste Program for State of NJ. 2/11/04<br />
Page 21<br />
Guidance for management of street sweepings is provided along with<br />
examples of uses—fill for potholes, embankment for emergency road repairs,<br />
containment/absorption for HW spill response, subbase fill, deicing/antiskid<br />
material, landfill cover, and asphalt.<br />
• Guidance for Municipal Management Practices for Street Sweepings<br />
and Catch Basin Cleanings<br />
Connecticut DEP, January 2005.<br />
Guidance for management and reuse of street sweepings including fill on<br />
industrial or commercial property, spill clean ups, and disposal.<br />
• State of Connecticut department of environmental protection<br />
guideline for municipal management practices for street sweepings<br />
and catch basin cleanings</p>
<p>http://dep.state.ct.us/wst/solidw/street_sweepings.pdf</p>
<p>January 2005<br />
Describes street sweepings and catch basins along with planning<br />
considerations for both. Reviews storage regulations, filtering process, and<br />
reuse options. Some options include; sweepings to be mixed with new sand<br />
and used for application to roadways in winter, daily cover on active landfills,<br />
fill for roadsides and medians as long as they are not located near a lake,<br />
wetland or river, and mixing into concrete or asphalt operations.<br />
• Contamination of Sediments in street sweepings and storm water<br />
systems</p>
<p>http://www.floridacenter.org/publications/leibens00-10.pdf</p>
<p>January 2001<br />
Article written to provide information on testing street sweepings and what<br />
types of chemicals the sediment absorbs during the period of time it was on<br />
the road. Goes over the process of how to clean the sediment and uses for<br />
the sediment when cleaned. Some suggestions for cleaned sediment include;<br />
park applications, playgrounds, landscaping, fill, unpaved roads, road<br />
shoulders, and land application.<br />
• Anchorage Street Sweeping Management Plan</p>
<p>http://wms.geonorth.com/library/Documents/Reports/BMP_Guidance/02_StS</p>
<p>wep_doc.pdf<br />
Document No. WMP CPp02001, August 2002<br />
Document explaining regulations for the town of Anchorage. Briefly goes over<br />
federal solid and hazardous waste standards. Includes state of Alaska<br />
Page 22<br />
regulations. The document goes over some uses for street sweepings in<br />
anchorage, which include; regrading snow removal sites, fill for street<br />
maintenance and construction, and immediate use by street sweeping<br />
contractors on public projects. Reviews plan to ensure environmentally sound<br />
use and management of street sweepings.<br />
• Reprocessing and Refuse of Street Solids</p>
<p>http://www.cwc.org/industry/ibp975rpt.pdf</p>
<p>June 1997<br />
This report was written for the Clean Washington Center (CRC). The<br />
Washington State Department of Ecology defined street sweepings as<br />
municipal solid waste, which has had a large financial impact on both public<br />
and private parties. In Washington State street wastes fall into two<br />
categories. Class A street sweepings, which are mostly used for reuse on<br />
streets for traction. And class B Street sweepings, which are used for landfill<br />
daily cover. The report describes numerous ways that the waste is filtered<br />
and cleaned.<br />
• Reuse and Disposal of Street Sweepings</p>
<p>http://www.floridacenter.org/publications/leibens00-10.pdf</p>
<p>This policy written by the Department of Environmental Protection Reviews<br />
many ways that street sweeping wastes are used in the state of<br />
Massachusetts. Street sweepings in Massachusetts are considered solid waste<br />
and must be taken care of according to solid waste regulations. Street<br />
sweepings that meet requirements for daily cover at MSW landfills need no<br />
approval from the DEP. The DEP does not need to approve street waste when<br />
it is used for street fill or composting when certain criteria are met. Disposal<br />
of street sweepings in landfills is permitted, but only used as a last source.<br />
Alternative uses are being used because of landfill tipping fees, and increased<br />
transportation fees.<br />
• Fact sheet for Carwash Facilities</p>
<p>http://www.nmenv.state.nm.us/HWB/data/Fact_Sheets/FACT%20SHEET%20</p>
<p>FOR%20CAR%20WASH%20FACILITIES.doc<br />
This fact sheet was produced by the New Mexico Environmental Department<br />
Hazardous Waste Bureau to provide information regarding waste produced by<br />
commercial carwash businesses. Commercial carwashes produce hazardous<br />
waste primarily from the sand traps located on site. Sand trap waste must be<br />
tested and if determined hazardous waste the facility is responsible for<br />
sending the waste to the appropriate storage site. Waste from these sand<br />
traps is tested for heavy metals such as lead, Cadmium, and mercury using<br />
Page 23<br />
the EPA method 6010. Roughly 90% of this waste tested is not considered<br />
hazardous waste and can be disposed of through other methods.<br />
• Managing Street Sweepings</p>
<p>http://www.pca.state.mn.us/waste/pubs/4_54.pdf</p>
<p>September 1997.<br />
This fact sheet is written by the Minnesota Pollution Control Agency reviewing<br />
street sweepings and uses for street sweepings. Street sweepings are<br />
described as sand, salt, leaves, and debris removed from city streets,<br />
parking lots, and sidewalks. The PCA suggest not using street sweepings in<br />
certain areas such as playgrounds, children play areas, residential yards, and<br />
any area where human contact continuously occurs. Reuses suggested by the<br />
PCA include; Mix with new for winter road application, daily cover on landfills,<br />
and construction fill.<br />
• Should Worcester Use the Green Hill Park Landfill for Street<br />
Sweepings and Catch Basin Materials?</p>
<p>Http://www.wrrb.org/Reports/98-1greenhill.pdf</p>
<p>January 1996<br />
This report written by the Worcester Municipal Research Bureau goes over<br />
how Worcester should dispose of their street sweepings, and possibly use the<br />
street sweepings to cover the Green Hill Park Landfill so it meets the current<br />
landfill cap standards. This plan would take several years to complete, but<br />
would take care of large quantities of street sweepings that otherwise would<br />
need to be landfilled which would cost the community large amounts of<br />
money. Some oppose this idea and believe the landfill should be capped<br />
immediately due to environmental hazards. Worcester’s Department of Public<br />
Works has made several plans that could be used to avoid the high tipping<br />
costs and other costs involved in alternative disposal methods if the landfill<br />
cap plan is approved.<br />
• Management of Road Wastes</p>
<p>http://www.state.nj.us/dep/dshw/rrtp/ss.htm</p>
<p>This document was written by the New Jersey Department of Environmental<br />
Protection to explain the different contamination levels of road waste and<br />
describes uses for this waste. The document describes management options<br />
for both hazardous waste and non hazardous waste produced from street<br />
sweepings and goes over how both of these materials must be handled and<br />
stored. Uses for road waste are also discussed and many different options<br />
are given.<br />
Page 24<br />
• Roadside Management and Maintenance: Beyond Vegetation</p>
<p>http://environment.transportation.org/environmental_issues/construct_main</p>
<p>t_prac/compendium/manual/10_16.aspx<br />
This Policy was created by the American Association of State Highways and<br />
Transportation Officials. The policy goes over what is considered road waste.<br />
It describes how some is contaminated and cannot be used for anything;<br />
where as other waste may be acceptable for many uses. The policy includes<br />
information on catch basin waste as well as road and roadside dirt debris<br />
waste. It gives reuse options for both.<br />
• Road waste Management: A Tool for Developing District Plans</p>
<p>http://www.oregon.gov/ODOT/TD/TP_RES/docs/Reports/RoadWasteMng_tool</p>
<p>.pdf<br />
October 2000<br />
This report was done for the Oregon Department of Transportation and<br />
meant to assist in solutions for roadside waste. The report reviews current<br />
waste management recommendations as well as future recommendations.<br />
The report was created to help districts in determining how much and what<br />
type of waste is being produced on their roadsides, and how to dispose of, or<br />
manage the waste. A flowchart included in the chart helped to determine<br />
what to do with road waste.<br />
• Management of Street Wastes</p>
<p>http://www.des.state.nh.us/factsheets/sw/sw-32.htm</p>
<p>May 2006<br />
This fact sheet was written by the New Hampshire Department of<br />
Environmental Services. It includes information including disposal, reuse, and<br />
catch basin cleaning.<br />
Foundry Sands<br />
• Case Study: Low Energy Recycling of Foundry Sand</p>
<p>http://es.epa.gov/techinfo/case/michigan/mich-cs4.html</p>
<p>November 1995<br />
Wolverine Bronze Company needed to find a way to recycle foundry sands<br />
that was easy, cheap, and practical. Thermal recycling was tried first with no<br />
success due to high costs. They then tried the low energy system design.<br />
This worked better for them and results with the product were greater along<br />
with the price being lower.<br />
• Beneficial Use of Foundry Sand in Barrier Layers Construction<br />
Page 25</p>
<p>http://geoserver.cee.wisc.edu/buic/current.htm</p>
<p>Foundry sands were studied and found to be a good material for barrier<br />
layers for landfills and other environmental areas that may need some type<br />
of natural cover. Foundry sands were tested and found to be just as effective<br />
as clay so foundry sands can be used instead of virgin material for covers.<br />
• Use of Spent Foundry Sand in Manufactured Topsoil</p>
<p>http://environmentalsoils.cas.psu.edu/foundrysand.html</p>
<p>2006<br />
Foundry sands were used in topsoil applications for a Penn State experiment.<br />
Results showed that some types of plants actually grew faster with the<br />
foundry sands being the topsoil while none grew less than normal. Results<br />
are shown with many graphs and explanations for each unit.<br />
• States Regulatory Disparities, Stigma Confound Foundries Efforts to<br />
Recycle Sand</p>
<p>http://www.glbma.org/news/010625-huron-sand.html</p>
<p>June 2001<br />
State regulations determine if foundry sands are applicable to land. This is a<br />
hot topic for many because foundry sands have been found to not be harmful<br />
to the environment, yet some states still require the material to be land<br />
filled.<br />
• Foundry Sand</p>
<p>http://www.rmrc.unh.edu/Partners/UserGuide/fs1.htm</p>
<p>Foundry sand is defined and a good description is given. Disposal methods<br />
and alternatives uses are listed with the process of how sand molds are<br />
formed is shown.<br />
• Foundry Sand</p>
<p>http://www.tfhrc.gov/hnr20/recycle/waste/fs3.htm</p>
<p>Foundry sand can be used as flowable fill. Flowable fill is a fill that is used in<br />
many fill applications such as road beds, trenches that are no longer needed,<br />
and abandoned wells. The process of getting the sand ready includes<br />
crushing and screening the sand to reduce the size and remove any large<br />
pieces. Construction methods are listed.<br />
• The Foundry Industry…Recycling Yesterday, Today, and Tomorrow<br />
Page 26</p>
<p>http://www.afsinc.org/Govn/downloads/RecyclingBrochure.pdf</p>
<p>This brochure created by the American Foundry Society has many pictures of<br />
how the recycling process happens and what end results are created. Facts<br />
are given about some foundries that seem to be almost impossible, but<br />
according to them are accurate.<br />
• The Toxic Compounds and Leaching Characteristics of Spent Foundry<br />
Sands, November 2000</p>
<p>http://www.brunel.ac.uk/controls/common/getImage.aspx?imageId=298</p>
<p>Some foundry sands are considered hazardous waste while others are not.<br />
This is the problem when recycling comes into play. To be able to land apply<br />
foundry sands they need to be tested and approved by your states EPA. This<br />
report covers how leachate from foundry sands can be harmful to the<br />
surrounding environment.<br />
• Beneficial Reuse of Spent Foundry Sand</p>
<p>http://www.cwc.org/industry/ibp951fs.pdf</p>
<p>August 1996<br />
Foundry sands can be used in many different things after it has been spent.<br />
A list of many reuses is given which includes: asphalt concrete, composting<br />
additive, concrete, bricks and pavers, and Portland cement.<br />
• Using Waste Foundry Sand As Reactive Media in Permeable Reactive<br />
Barriers</p>
<p>http://www.dnr.wisconsin.gov/org/water/dwg/gw/research/reports/147.pdf</p>
<p>January 2002<br />
This study was done by the Wisconsin Department of Natural Resources<br />
along with the University of Wisconsin system.<br />
• Resource Conservation Challenge: Reusing and Recycling Industrial<br />
Materials</p>
<p>http://www.epa.gov/epaoswer/osw/conserve/resources/bene-use.pdf</p>
<p>The Environmental Protection Agency lists coal ash, foundry sands, and<br />
construction and demolition debris in this article and suggests uses for each.<br />
• Case Studies of Beneficial Uses of Foundry Sands</p>
<p>http://www.epa.gov/ispd/metalcasting/reuseb.pdf</p>
<p>October 2002<br />
Page 27<br />
Reviews case studies in Ohio, Wisconsin, Michigan, and Virginia. Uses for the<br />
sands are listed and performance is graded.<br />
• EPA Guidelines: Used Foundry Sands</p>
<p>http://www.epa.sa.gov.au/pdfs/guide_foundrysand.pdf</p>
<p>September 2003<br />
The environmental Protection Agency has guidelines that need to be followed<br />
concerning spent foundry sands. The guidelines are explained for recycling,<br />
disposal, and transportation.<br />
• Geoenvironmental Behavior of Foundry Sand Amended Mixtures for<br />
Highway Subbases</p>
<p>http://www.glue.umd.edu/aydilek/FSsand.pdf</p>
<p>June 2005<br />
A laboratory-testing program performed tests that compared the use of<br />
foundry sand for road subbase to the original material used for road subbase.<br />
The results showed that the road with foundry sands for subbase was more<br />
tolerable to cold temperatures like winter can bring. The water testing that<br />
was done on the runoff showed that both were meeting standards set by the<br />
EPA.<br />
• Spent Foundry Sands</p>
<p>http://www.p2pays.org/ref/04/03273.pdf</p>
<p>June 1996<br />
This short article gives a couple options for the use of spent foundry sands.<br />
The article recommends using sands as embankments that would normally<br />
be built out of soil. Another suggestion is flowable backfill.<br />
• University Researchers Test Using Foundry Sand and Slag in Concrete</p>
<p>http://www.p2pays.org/ref/18/17260.pdf</p>
<p>Results from studies done at the University of Wisconsin Milwaukee show<br />
that foundry sand can be effectively used in concrete when the concrete<br />
contains 35% sand. The second part of the article covers foundry sand used<br />
in Portland cement.<br />
• Waste Foundry Sand- A Resource in Composting and soil Production</p>
<p>http://www.nordicinnovation.net/article.cfm?id=3-853-326</p>
<p>2006<br />
Page 28<br />
European people are experimenting with foundry sands in a way that can<br />
help them be more sustainable. They are mixing small amounts of foundry<br />
sands into compost. The results are not yet known and the experiment is still<br />
in progress.<br />
• Recycling of Iron Foundry Sand and Glass Waste as Raw Material for<br />
Production of Whiteware</p>
<p>http://wmr.sagepub.com/cgi/reprint/24/1/60</p>
<p>2006<br />
Foundry sand and glass can be mixed to make ceramic products. This would<br />
decrease the amount of virgin material needed and be a good use for spent<br />
foundry sand and glass.<br />
• Recycled Foundry Sand</p>
<p>http://www.foundryrecycling.org/org/whatis.html</p>
<p>This article written by FIRST (Foundry Industry Recycling Starts Today)<br />
explains what foundry sands are composed of and how sand can be recycled.<br />
A beneficial reuse overview is given listing uses for recycled sand.<br />
Shredder Fluff<br />
• Texas Company Tackles Shredder Fluff- Turnpoint Engineering- Scrap</p>
<p>http://www.findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_m3MKT/is_n227_v98/ai_9154386</p>
<p>November 1990<br />
Turnpoint engineering has developed a way to create a gas from automobile<br />
shredder fluff that can run a generator to create energy. Daily amounts and<br />
other information on the process are given.<br />
• Recycling company to Pay 20,000 Penalty for Environmental Violations</p>
<p>http://www.pca.state.mn.us/news/data/newsRelease.cfm?NR=268430&#038;type</p>
<p>=2<br />
August 2005<br />
The Minnesota Pollution Control Agency fined an auto recycling center in<br />
Duluth, MN for not having correct licenses for hazardou8s waste generation.<br />
Hazardous waste is generated while the shredding process takes place and<br />
correct licenses must be present if not legal action takes place.<br />
• East Washington Fluff</p>
<p>http://www.azdeq.gov/environ/waste/sps/download/phoenix/ewf.pdf</p>
<p>Page 29<br />
A review of an auto shredder fluff site was completed and results were given.<br />
The results showed some contaminants in the soil, but not in the<br />
groundwater for the area. Future plans for the site are reviewed.<br />
• Recycling Company to Pay 20,000 for Environmental Violations</p>
<p>http://www.pca.state.mn.us/news/data/newsRelease.cfm?NR=268430&#038;type</p>
<p>=2<br />
August 2005<br />
A Duluth Minnesota salvage company has been fined for not possessing the<br />
correct licenses for hazardous waste production. The Minnesota Pollution<br />
Control Agency inspected the company and found large amounts of auto<br />
shredder fluff that was considered a hazardous waste and no license was<br />
present.<br />
• Cover to Cover: Operational Problems With Alternative Daily Cover</p>
<p>http://www.nyfederation.org/PDF2005/49Pollock.pdf</p>
<p>This power point presentation goes over many different options for daily<br />
cover at landfills. Auto shredder fluff is one possibility. Problems with stability<br />
have been noticed along with other observations.<br />
• Green vs. Green</p>
<p>http://www.findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_m3012/is_10_179/ai_57513420</p>
<p>October 1999<br />
Some automakers are now trying to create vehicles that are nearly 100%<br />
recyclable. The problem is that many products that are recycled from<br />
vehicles are much more expensive than new products that have not been<br />
recycled.<br />
• Management of End of Life Vehicles in the U.S.</p>
<p>Http://css.snre.umich.edu/css_doc/CSS01-01.pdf</p>
<p>March 2001<br />
This report covers many things involved with the use of vehicles in the U.S.<br />
Along with what happens to the vehicles when they have been dismantled to<br />
be recycled. Uses of the recycled product are reviewed and regulations are<br />
listed.<br />
• Automotive Salvage Yard Waste Management Practices in Colorado</p>
<p>http://www.cdphe.state.co.us/hm/autosalvage.pdf</p>
<p>June 2006<br />
Page 30<br />
Good review of the auto salvage process including what to do with shredder<br />
waste, and how it may be considered a hazardous waste if not shredded and<br />
emptied properly.<br />
• End of Life Vehicles in Ireland</p>
<p>http://www.epa.ie/NewsCentre/ReportsPublications/Waste/FileUpload,381,en</p>
<p>.pdf<br />
December 2002<br />
This report was written by the Environmental Protection Agency of Ireland on<br />
end of life vehicles. Environmental concerns are reviewed and alternative<br />
uses are given. Legislative topics are brought up and industry regulations are<br />
mentioned.<br />
MSW Ash<br />
• Reuse of Incinerator Fly Ash in Soft Soil Stabilization<br />
J. Mat. In Civ.Engrg. Volume 15, Issue 4, pp335-343<br />
July/August 2003<br />
Fly ash is a potential source of jet grouting admixture for soil. Strength is<br />
improved to more than 75 times that of untreated clay. Leaching of metals<br />
was also reviewed.<br />
• Case Studies for MSW Ash Residue Re-Use Applications</p>
<p>http://www.ieabioenergytask36.org/task36_supporting_documents/task36_p</p>
<p>dfs/publications/Mangement_of_Residues_from_Thernal_Processes_Appendix<br />
1.PDF<br />
Case studies from six different countries are given along with results from<br />
each.<br />
• Use of Bottom Ash From Municipal Solid Waste Incineration as a<br />
Road Material</p>
<p>http://www.flyash.info/2001/conprod3/37izqu.pdf</p>
<p>2001<br />
This article written by the University of Kentucky reviews the use of MSW ash<br />
for roadway beds. The results show that the ash is a good substrate for<br />
roadbeds because it can be compacted easily.<br />
• Municipal Solid Waste Incinerator Ash</p>
<p>http://www.des.state.nh.us/SWPlan/IV_IncineratorAsh.pdf</p>
<p>Page 31<br />
Good background on MSW ash and how it is created. Health and<br />
environmental issues are given along with recycling and disposal options.<br />
Information on policies and grant programs are listed to inform the reader of<br />
possibilities.<br />
• MSW Combustor Ash</p>
<p>http://www.rmrc.unh.edu/Partners/UserGuide/mswca1.htm</p>
<p>This site gives a lot of good information on the entire process from how MSW<br />
ash is created to how it can be dealt with. Both chemical and physical<br />
properties are given and explained with tables.<br />
Sewage Sludge and Sewage Sludge Ash<br />
• Agricultural Uses of Sewage Sludge and Water and Their Impacts on<br />
Soil Water and Environmental Health in Haryana India</p>
<p>http://crops.confex.com/crops/wc2006/techprogram/P12698.HTM</p>
<p>July 2006<br />
This article written by the International Union of Soil Sciences explains how<br />
the large population increase in India is causing problems with the amount of<br />
waste being created. The most common use for waste sludge is adding to<br />
cropland. This is good, but can only be done to a certain level due to heavy<br />
metal that is being found in the waste.<br />
• Standards for the Use or Disposal of Sewage Sludge</p>
<p>http://www.epa.gov/fedrgstr/EPA-WATER/2002/June/Day-12/w14761.htm</p>
<p>June 2002<br />
The EPA standards for the use and application of sewage sludge are given<br />
along with much more information.<br />
• Dumping Sewage Sludge on Organic Farms</p>
<p>http://www.ewg.org/reports/sludgememo/sludge.html</p>
<p>April 1998<br />
In 1997 the USDA brought up the idea of using municipal sewage sludge on<br />
organic foods. This brought up many ideas and differences among many<br />
groups. Questions regarding the food industry and sewage sludge are very<br />
common along with human health concerns. Large amounts of heavy metals<br />
such as lead, cadmium, and mercury found in the waste are concerns.<br />
• Using Composted Sewage Sludge in the Production and Maintenance<br />
of Ornamental Plants<br />
Page 32</p>
<p>http://www.agnr.umd.edu/MCE/Publications/Publication.cfm?ID=192</p>
<p>1992<br />
Article written for the University of Maryland regarding the use of sewage<br />
sludge in composting mix used for flowers, trees, and shrubs.<br />
• The Beneficial Uses of Sewage Sludge/Biosolids</p>
<p>http://cwmi.css.cornell.edu/Sludge/Beneficial.pdf</p>
<p>1996<br />
This article goes over management practices, regulations on sludge use, and<br />
land application uses for sludge. It stresses proper employee training to<br />
those who may be applying sludge along with best management practices<br />
being followed.<br />
• Considerations for Dairy Farms Regarding the Use of Sewage<br />
Sludges, Sludge Products and Septage</p>
<p>http://cwmi.css.cornell.edu/Sludge/Dairysludgesummary.pdf</p>
<p>November 2003<br />
This report covers some guidelines for the use of sewage sludge and some<br />
suggestions are given about the amount that should be applied. The<br />
surrounding areas to the land that is getting the application also need to be<br />
considered.<br />
• Biosolids Applied to Land: Advancing Standards and Practices</p>
<p>http://dels.nas.edu/dels/rpt_briefs/biosolids_final.pdf</p>
<p>2002<br />
Possible uses of sewage sludge are given including land application and<br />
landfilling. One method that was banned in 1992 was ocean dumping of<br />
sewage sludge. In 1993 the EPA created regulations regarding the amount of<br />
sewage sludge applied to land under the Clean Water Act.<br />
• Disposal and Recycling Routes for Sewage Sludge</p>
<p>http://ec.europa.eu/environment/waste/sludge/synthesisreport020222.pdf</p>
<p>February 2002<br />
This report done by the European commission covers topics such as scientific<br />
and technical analysis, regulatory analysis, economic analysis, and sludge<br />
use acceptance analysis.<br />
• Sludge Management, Processing, Treatment, and Disposal<br />
Page 33</p>
<p>http://www.fwrj.com/articles2/9911.pdf</p>
<p>November 1999<br />
Disposal of biosolids to landfill is considered a good alternative if methane<br />
gas is being collected from that particular landfill. Otherwise this is not<br />
considered a good alternative. If methane collection is not available land<br />
application is the best alternative. Currently over half (54%) of biosolids are<br />
being recycled in the U.S.<br />
• The Dirty Work of Promoting “Recycling” of Americas Sewage Sludge</p>
<p>http://www.ijoeh.com/pfds/IJOEH_1104_Snyder.pdf</p>
<p>This article goes over what is considered sludge and how sludge should be<br />
used in the environment. It also goes over how sludge can be a mixture of<br />
things people do not normally think about when the term sludge is used.<br />
• Sludge or Biosolids</p>
<p>http://www.neiwpcc.org/PDF_Docs/general.pdf</p>
<p>October 2001<br />
This packet was created by the Environmental Protection Agency to let the<br />
public know the difference between sludge and biosolids. Some suggested<br />
uses are given for the use of biosolids along with beneficial treatment<br />
procedures.<br />
• Sewage Sludge Incineration</p>
<p>http://www.neiwpcc.org/PDF_Docs/sewage.pdf</p>
<p>October 2001<br />
This packet was created by the Environmental Protection Agency to inform<br />
the public on how sewage sludge can be incinerated. It shows the process<br />
that takes place and also the equipment that is needed to complete the<br />
process.<br />
• Sewage Sludge Use on Agricultural Land</p>
<p>http://www.oznet.ksu.edu/library/crpsl2/MF1168.PDF</p>
<p>1991<br />
Kansas State University extension service wrote this article to inform people<br />
about the uses of sewage sludge. It goes over the special restrictions for<br />
sewage sludge that are required for land application to protect the<br />
environment.<br />
Page 34<br />
• A Green Blue Print for Sewage Sludge Disposal</p>
<p>http://www.sas.org.uk/SAS%20Sludge1.pdf</p>
<p>This article has many good ideas and uses for sewage sludge. Some<br />
examples include ag use, sludge compost, and forestry use. Each of these<br />
uses is described in the report. Along with uses the report includes<br />
information on heavy metals found in sewage sludge and how they may<br />
effect our environment as well.<br />
• Hard Facts About the Risks and Benefits of Using Treated Sewage<br />
Sludge/Biosolids on Land</p>
<p>http://www.slopublichealth.org/environmentalhealth/simpler_risks_english.p</p>
<p>df<br />
August 2000<br />
This article explains how nitrogen, phosphorous, and micronutrients are in<br />
biosolids and what form they are in. It also goes over the risks involved with<br />
using biosolids because they may contain pathogens and heavy metals,<br />
which may contaminate our groundwater.<br />
• Land Application of Biosolids</p>
<p>http://www.lagoonsonline.com/landapply.htm</p>
<p>2003<br />
Reviews how biosolids can be applied to land and crops for benefits. Some<br />
facts are given about the amount applied each year, roughly half of the<br />
sewage sludge in the U.S. Is land applied. Some alternative applications<br />
include parks, golf courses, cemeteries, plant nurseries, and highway media<br />
strips.<br />
• Reclamation and Recycling</p>
<p>http://www.gesui.metro.tokyo.jp/english/rr41.htm</p>
<p>March 2004<br />
This article was written by the bureau of sewerage in Tokyo. The article gives<br />
a little different view on how other countries recycle their waste. Graphs and<br />
charts show what they are doping with waste. Some pictures are given of<br />
waste that has been dried and is in the final stage of the recycling process.<br />
• Sewage Sludge Ash</p>
<p>http://www.rmrc.unh.edu/Partners/UserGuide/ss1.htm</p>
<p>Page 35<br />
This product created when sewage sludge is incinerated has a couple<br />
different uses. This website shows the process how it is made, and gives uses<br />
for the final product. One of the uses they mention is concrete.<br />
• Sewage Sludge Ash</p>
<p>http://www.rmrc.unh.edu/Partners/UserGuide/ss2.htm</p>
<p>This article is a second part to the above article. It shows results for<br />
performance testing and material processing requirements. Other subjects<br />
included in this article are engineering properties, design considerations, and<br />
construction procedures.<br />
• Resolving Application Issues When Using Sewage Sludge Ash as<br />
concrete component</p>
<p>http://www.dundee.ac.uk/civileng/research/concrete/pii/sludge.htm</p>
<p>2004<br />
This article was written about the possible uses for sludge ash and how it<br />
may be able to be used for concrete products.<br />
Coal Ash<br />
• Workshop and “Construction “Demonstration for Use of Fly Ash and<br />
Other Coal Combustion By-Products</p>
<p>http://www.uwm.edu/Dept/CBU/sept_seminr.html</p>
<p>Agenda describing use of coal ash in mixed concrete, precast concrete,<br />
flowable slurry for backfilling excavations, highway construction, etc.<br />
• Coal Ash: Its Origin, Disposal, Use, and Potential Health Issues<br />
EPRI<br />
Beneficial uses of coal ash in the US include autoclaved aerated concrete<br />
block, hazardous waste or liquid fixation, blasting grit, highway ice control,<br />
cement additive, masonry blocks, concrete admixture, material in lightweight<br />
alloys, concrete aggregate, roadway/runway construction, flowable fill<br />
material, roofing granules, grouting, and structural fill.<br />
• Combustion Products Recycling Consortium<br />
Engineering and Environmental Specifications of State Agencies for Utilization<br />
and Disposal of Coal Combustion Products<br />
Page 36<br />
Results show that all states have specifications pertaining to CCPs and their<br />
application. The single most noted application is the partial replacement of<br />
cement in concrete.<br />
• Vermont: Municipal Solid Waste Incinerator Ash<br />
MSW ash is used as landfill cover, road base material, and in cinder blocks.<br />
Bottom ash may be used as a partial substitute for aggregate in the<br />
manufacture of binder course pavement.<br />
• Other Beneficial Uses of Coal Ash</p>
<p>http://www.pacode.com/secure/data/025/chapter287/s287.665.html</p>
<p>1997<br />
This article put out by The Pennsylvania Code is about beneficial uses for coal<br />
ash other than land filling and soil substitution. The list contains uses that do<br />
not require a permit in the state.<br />
• What is Coal Ash?</p>
<p>Http://www.aep.com/about/coalCombustion/coalash.htm</p>
<p>2006<br />
This website does a good job at explaining what coal ash is exactly and gives<br />
some alternative us</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="pocd-faq">
<div class="question">
<div class="asker">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/plugins/pageonecontentdynamo/headshots/Paul.png" width="80" height="80" /></p>
<p class="name">Paul asks…</p>
</div>
<div class="pocd-content">
<h2>What is the best possible way to remodel a mobile home?</h2>
<p>I have a 1968 model 12&#215;60 with a <strong>metal</strong> roof (gets really hot in here with out air), 2 bedroom, kitchen, living room and a bathroom that is wheel chair accessable</p>
</div>
</div>
<p><!--more-->
<div class="answer">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/bob.png" /></p>
<h3>bob mcalister answers:</h3>
<p class="pocd-content">One of the things to do is put a pitch roof with asphalt shingles,maybe a farmers porch.this is easy to do right over the existing roof.foam insulation board and then vinyl siding and vinyl banking will dress up the outside while adding some R value to the insulation rating.on the inside you may replace the windows with vinyl replacement windows.they are easy to do.most mobile homes are constructed with 3 inch studs rather than 2&#215;4 so your windows and the doors that you replace will stick past about a 1/2 inch.this is fine because now you can also put up insulation board on the inside.also insulating the floor from under can really save some money in the long run.now time to sheetrock,use the thinnest you can find. 3/8 is comman,but i have seen it in 1/4 width.or if you like pine tongue and groove looks great.tile in the kitchen and bath,carpet in the rest of the rooms,maybe hardwood floors in the living room.some creative landscaping and wahlah! A trailer fit for a king.i just remodeled one using some of the materials i suggested and it came out great.i also redid the wiring and put in new oullets and switches.do a little at a time and before you know it she&#8217;ll be complete.good luck</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="pocd-faq">
<div class="question">
<div class="asker">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/plugins/pageonecontentdynamo/headshots/Jenny.png" width="80" height="80" /></p>
<p class="name">Jenny asks…</p>
</div>
<div class="pocd-content">
<h2>the rain gutters on my house shocked me while i was vaccuming them out, what is going on?</h2>
<p>it is an old house with a tin roof on top of a shingled roof. i cut the edge of the <strong>metal</strong> roof to expose the gutter. the gutter was full of broken pieces of <strong>shingles</strong>, so i got the shop vac. out and started to clean the gutters out and got a pretty good electric shock!</p>
</div>
</div>
<p><!--more-->
<div class="answer">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/bob.png" /></p>
<h3>bob mcalister answers:</h3>
<p class="pocd-content">I have seen this before.  A nail through the metal roof has nicked a hot wire and has electrified the entire roof and anything metal that is in contact with it, such as the gutters.  It may not be easy to find the right nail.  If you have an attic that will help a lot.  You are going to have to see the entire roof area.  You may be able tt see wires in easy places and trace where they go along the roof.  My friend lived in a mobile home and when he went in and out the screen door shocked him.  It took awhile to figure it out!</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="pocd-faq">
<div class="question">
<div class="asker">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/plugins/pageonecontentdynamo/headshots/Donald.png" width="80" height="80" /></p>
<p class="name">Donald asks…</p>
</div>
<div class="pocd-content">
<h2>Does a new roof qualify for the Residential Energy Improvements credit?</h2>
<p>We had a new roof put on in 2006 &#8211; 40 year Owens Corning <strong>shingles</strong>. I see that <strong>metal</strong> roofs qualify, but wasn&#8217;t sure if a regular roof would qualify as being an improvement to insulation.</p>
</div>
</div>
<p><!--more-->
<div class="answer">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/bob.png" /></p>
<h3>bob mcalister answers:</h3>
<p class="pocd-content">It should, check with your local authorities.</p>
<p>All the best!/</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="pocd-faq">
<div class="question">
<div class="asker">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/plugins/pageonecontentdynamo/headshots/Joseph.png" width="80" height="80" /></p>
<p class="name">Joseph asks…</p>
</div>
<div class="pocd-content">
<h2>metal roofing whats your take on it good or bad?</h2>
<p>I think I am leaning toward a <strong>metal</strong> roof and was wanting to hear from other people about it, if they like it, is it better than tile, stuff like that</p>
</div>
</div>
<p><!--more-->
<div class="answer">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/bob.png" /></p>
<h3>bob mcalister answers:</h3>
<p class="pocd-content">I built a cabin in the mountains of Tennessee&#8230;  I put a metal roof on it, and love it!  Another cabin was built near mine the following year, they used traditional shingles&#8230;  With high winds, and all the trees, they have already had to replace part of that roof.  My roof looks the same as the day I put it on. (i think it is 9 y/o)<br />
I wanted to use tile, but the cost difference was so much that the sensible choice was to go with metal.</p>
</div>
</div>
<p><small>Powered by Yahoo! Answers</small></p>
]]></content:encoded>
			<wfw:commentRss>http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/your-questions-about-metal-roofing-shingles-5/feed/</wfw:commentRss>
		<slash:comments>0</slash:comments>
		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Your Questions About Vinyl Siding</title>
		<link>http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/your-questions-about-vinyl-siding-5/</link>
		<comments>http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/your-questions-about-vinyl-siding-5/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 10 May 2013 11:07:02 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>bob mcalister</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Topics]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/your-questions-about-vinyl-siding-5/</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[James asks… How do you remove vine tendrils from vinyl siding? We just bought a house and there are vine [...]]]></description>
				<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div class="pocd-faq">
<div class="question">
<div class="asker">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/plugins/pageonecontentdynamo/headshots/James.png" width="80" height="80" /></p>
<p class="name">James asks…</p>
</div>
<div class="pocd-content">
<h2>How do you remove vine tendrils from vinyl siding?</h2>
<p>We just bought a house and there are vine tendrils attached to part of the <strong>vinyl</strong> <strong>siding</strong>. Is there any way to remove it?</p>
</div>
</div>
<p><span id="more-1242"></span>
<div class="answer">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/bob.png" /></p>
<h3>bob mcalister answers:</h3>
<p class="pocd-content">Not really. That&#8217;s the problem with ivy is that the tendrils permanently attach themselves to vertical surfaces and ruin the surface. If it were a concrete or brick wall, you might get away with pressure washing them off. But, you probably wouldn&#8217;t be able to use enough pressure to remove the tendrils without damaging the vinyl siding.</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="pocd-faq">
<div class="question">
<div class="asker">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/plugins/pageonecontentdynamo/headshots/Susan.png" width="80" height="80" /></p>
<p class="name">Susan asks…</p>
</div>
<div class="pocd-content">
<h2>What is the easiest way to install vinyl siding on a 2 story house?</h2>
<p>I am going to be removing the <strong>vinyl</strong> <strong>siding</strong> on my house to repair and replace some of the sheathing behind it, as the contractor used 1/2&#8243; blue foam insulation instead of OSB, per N.C. code.  I need to know what is the best and safest way to reach the 2nd floor area and gable.  Ground to peak is about 30 feet.  Anyone have suggestions for what they use on new construction of homes?</p>
</div>
</div>
<p><!--more-->
<div class="answer">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/bob.png" /></p>
<h3>bob mcalister answers:</h3>
<p class="pocd-content">Definitely rent the scaffolding, or rent a lift basket unit.  Trying to work off a couple of ladders is not safe.  It is worth the cost for safety.</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="pocd-faq">
<div class="question">
<div class="asker">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/plugins/pageonecontentdynamo/headshots/Lisa.png" width="80" height="80" /></p>
<p class="name">Lisa asks…</p>
</div>
<div class="pocd-content">
<h2>What color vinyl siding would look good against a red brick front?</h2>
<p>My house (right now) has a red brick partial front and white aluminum <strong>siding</strong>.  I am looking to re-side with <strong>vinyl</strong> and need suggestions on a color.  I am trying to avoid white again because most of the houses on the street are white and I&#8217;d like a little individuality.  Help please!</p>
</div>
</div>
<p><!--more-->
<div class="answer">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/bob.png" /></p>
<h3>bob mcalister answers:</h3>
<p class="pocd-content">You could use Tan, Beige, or Gray (light or charcoal).<br />
You could also use hunter green but you may get tired of it sooner.</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="pocd-faq">
<div class="question">
<div class="asker">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/plugins/pageonecontentdynamo/headshots/Michael.png" width="80" height="80" /></p>
<p class="name">Michael asks…</p>
</div>
<div class="pocd-content">
<h2>Is the problem improperly installed vinyl siding?</h2>
<p>Pieces of the <strong>vinyl</strong> <strong>siding</strong> on our 18 month old home keep blowing off on one side of our house during high winds. No one else&#8217;s home is affected in our cul-de-sac. Just ours.<br />
Please forgive my ignorance when it come to <strong>vinyl</strong> <strong>siding</strong>. I don&#8217;t know what kind of abuse it&#8217;s made to take.</p>
</div>
</div>
<p><!--more-->
<div class="answer">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/bob.png" /></p>
<h3>bob mcalister answers:</h3>
<p class="pocd-content">Sounds like the wrong length nails were used. When installing vinyl siding, you need to leave the siding loose enough to expand and contract. This requires a bit longer nail since you still need it secured to the sheathing. Most installers leave 1/16 gap between the nail head and the siding.</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="pocd-faq">
<div class="question">
<div class="asker">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/plugins/pageonecontentdynamo/headshots/Joseph.png" width="80" height="80" /></p>
<p class="name">Joseph asks…</p>
</div>
<div class="pocd-content">
<h2>When replacing aluminum siding with vinyl siding is the old siding removed first?</h2>
<p>I plan to replace the aluminum <strong>siding</strong> on my house and replace it with <strong>vinyl</strong> <strong>siding</strong>.  I am wondering if the old <strong>siding</strong> is removed and new foam insulating sheets are placed prior to the <strong>vinyl</strong>&#8230;  Is it difficult to remove the aluminum <strong>siding</strong>?</p>
</div>
</div>
<p><!--more-->
<div class="answer">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/bob.png" /></p>
<h3>bob mcalister answers:</h3>
<p class="pocd-content">Yes, remove the old siding. It&#8217;s really not hard to get off plus you can turn it in for cash as long as it is aluminum. The price is quite good now for it. That will help you out quite a bit towards your new foam sheeting that you put up first. Call any recycling place to find out how they take the aluminum.</p>
</div>
</div>
<p><small>Powered by Yahoo! Answers</small></p>
]]></content:encoded>
			<wfw:commentRss>http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/your-questions-about-vinyl-siding-5/feed/</wfw:commentRss>
		<slash:comments>0</slash:comments>
		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Your Questions About Metal Roofs</title>
		<link>http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/your-questions-about-metal-roofs-10/</link>
		<comments>http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/your-questions-about-metal-roofs-10/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 09 May 2013 11:07:02 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>bob mcalister</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Topics]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/your-questions-about-metal-roofs-10/</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Laura asks… Our metal roof sweats inside the room, we have not replaced the ceiling yet. What could cause this? [...]]]></description>
				<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div class="pocd-faq">
<div class="question">
<div class="asker">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/plugins/pageonecontentdynamo/headshots/Laura.png" width="80" height="80" /></p>
<p class="name">Laura asks…</p>
</div>
<div class="pocd-content">
<h2>Our metal roof sweats inside the room, we have not replaced the ceiling yet. What could cause this?</h2>
<p>We live in a mobile home with a <strong>metal</strong> room attached that has a <strong>metal</strong> roof, the ceiling started leaking, so my husband took down the old ceiling and put a new <strong>metal</strong> roof on the room. He left the old <strong>metal</strong> on the roof , put insulation on top and then put new <strong>metal</strong> roofing on top of the insulation. Now the inside of the room sweats {we have not put in a new ceiling yet} it drips almost constantly. expecially when it is cold and the warm sun hits the roof. We need to put up a ceiling, but we cant&#8217;t because the ceiling tile will just get wet and ruin. What can we do to stop the roof {ceiling} from sweating and getting everything in the room wet? Can anyone help us with this problem?</p>
</div>
</div>
<p><span id="more-1241"></span>
<div class="answer">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/bob.png" /></p>
<h3>bob mcalister answers:</h3>
<p class="pocd-content">The insulation needs to be inside the old roof, not between them.</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="pocd-faq">
<div class="question">
<div class="asker">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/plugins/pageonecontentdynamo/headshots/Thomas.png" width="80" height="80" /></p>
<p class="name">Thomas asks…</p>
</div>
<div class="pocd-content">
<h2>Will a metal roof interfere with streaming videos on my iPhone?</h2>
<p>I bought the iPhone 4 with unlimited data from Sprint.  I tried streaming video at work, but nothing would come through.  I tried it at home (15 miles away) and it worked there.  I was not logged into an wifi at either location.  I heard that a <strong>metal</strong> roof can interfere with streaming video is that what is happening?</p>
</div>
</div>
<p><!--more-->
<div class="answer">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/bob.png" /></p>
<h3>bob mcalister answers:</h3>
<p class="pocd-content">Anytime you are in a steel structure or one that has metal in it and that metal is connected securely to ground, you are standing in what is called a Faraday cage that will block radio signals. If you roof is tied securely to ground, it will block direct signals that would go through a wood roof. These signals would have to be reflected through the side of the building to get to you. Try this experiment, take a look at your signal strength in the middle of the building and watch it as you get closer to the window. The closer to the window, the better your signal strength should be.</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="pocd-faq">
<div class="question">
<div class="asker">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/plugins/pageonecontentdynamo/headshots/Steven.png" width="80" height="80" /></p>
<p class="name">Steven asks…</p>
</div>
<div class="pocd-content">
<h2>Can I use ICE AND WATER SHIELD instead of the 30# felt before installing a metal roof?</h2>
<p>ICE AND WATER SHIELD is very durable and I was wondering if it&#8217;s a good idea to install it under a <strong>metal</strong> roof.</p>
</div>
</div>
<p><!--more-->
<div class="answer">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/bob.png" /></p>
<h3>bob mcalister answers:</h3>
<p class="pocd-content">Ice and Water Shield works great under metal roofing, providing an extra layer of protection. It is especially a good idea if you have a lower sloped roof, or are in an area with a lot of snow.</p>
<p>If you choose Ice &amp; Water, make sure it has a Poly surface, NOT a granular surface. The granular surface will wear away at the protective coatings on the underside of the metal roofing panels.</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="pocd-faq">
<div class="question">
<div class="asker">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/plugins/pageonecontentdynamo/headshots/Donald.png" width="80" height="80" /></p>
<p class="name">Donald asks…</p>
</div>
<div class="pocd-content">
<h2>Are there any draw backs to putting a metal roof on your house? I know the &#8220;pros&#8221;. But what are the &#8220;cons&#8221;?</h2>
<p><strong>Metal</strong> <strong>roofs</strong> are extremely popular these days.  They look great on some houses, not so much on others.</p>
<p>I hear a lot of &#8220;pros&#8221; about <strong>metal</strong> <strong>roofs</strong>.  But what are the &#8220;cons&#8221;?</p>
</div>
</div>
<p><!--more-->
<div class="answer">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/bob.png" /></p>
<h3>bob mcalister answers:</h3>
<p class="pocd-content">The new metal roofs are far superior to asphalt shingles, but they do have some drawbacks. Snow and ice can suddenly slide off and hurt someone. They can be noisy in hail, sleet and rain. They can get ugly dents from large hail. They can be to slippery to walk on safely. The steel roofs formed to appear like shingles have gravel and don&#8217;t have some of these problems. It is apparent that the previous posters are not familiar with the new metal roofs, they aren&#8217;t ugly, they are expensive. They can be made to look like slate or shingles or wood shakes.</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="pocd-faq">
<div class="question">
<div class="asker">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/plugins/pageonecontentdynamo/headshots/Michael.png" width="80" height="80" /></p>
<p class="name">Michael asks…</p>
</div>
<div class="pocd-content">
<h2>Which is the best choice &#8211; metal roofing or asphalt shingle roofing?</h2>
<p>Which is the ideal choice for residential roofing- <strong>metal</strong> roofing or asphalt shingle roofing? any suggestions?</p>
</div>
</div>
<p><!--more-->
<div class="answer">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/bob.png" /></p>
<h3>bob mcalister answers:</h3>
<p class="pocd-content">Http://blog.metalroofing.com/2010/03/pros-and-cons-of-metal-roofing-complete.html</p>
</div>
</div>
<p><small>Powered by Yahoo! Answers</small></p>
]]></content:encoded>
			<wfw:commentRss>http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/your-questions-about-metal-roofs-10/feed/</wfw:commentRss>
		<slash:comments>0</slash:comments>
		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Your Questions About Roofs</title>
		<link>http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/your-questions-about-roofs-35/</link>
		<comments>http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/your-questions-about-roofs-35/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 08 May 2013 11:07:02 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>bob mcalister</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Topics]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/your-questions-about-roofs-35/</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Daniel asks… What is the cheapest way to catch water from the roof of my house? I was thinking about [...]]]></description>
				<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div class="pocd-faq">
<div class="question">
<div class="asker">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/plugins/pageonecontentdynamo/headshots/Daniel.png" width="80" height="80" /></p>
<p class="name">Daniel asks…</p>
</div>
<div class="pocd-content">
<h2>What is the cheapest way to catch water from the roof of my house?</h2>
<p>I was thinking about the piping along the roof edge and let it drop into a large plastic garbage can?  What is the best/lowest priced piping?  Are can I use other materials?</p>
</div>
</div>
<p><span id="more-1240"></span>
<div class="answer">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/bob.png" /></p>
<h3>bob mcalister answers:</h3>
<p class="pocd-content">If you have a rain gutter and downspout installed, all you need is a diverter. See link.</p>
<p>Otherwise, you could rig a simple system to catch the rain from the edge of the roof and direct it into a barrel or garbage can. A couple of 10-foot lengths of gutter attached to a 2&#215;4 and supported by 2&#215;4 legs, kind of like an elongated version of a simple sawhorse, with one end discharging into the barrel and the other elevated a foot higher, would be enough to do the trick and easy to move and store between rains.</p>
<p>See the second link for things to consider.</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="pocd-faq">
<div class="question">
<div class="asker">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/plugins/pageonecontentdynamo/headshots/William.png" width="80" height="80" /></p>
<p class="name">William asks…</p>
</div>
<div class="pocd-content">
<h2>How much would it cost to rebuild a roof from scratch ?</h2>
<p>My house is 1,117 sq ft and i would like to know how much would it cost to rebuild  the roof &#8230;not talking about the shingles but the wood work..the whole thing&#8230;i had termites and i tented the house but the termites still come back and i think the wood is getting weaker and weaker&#8230;.im afraid it will collapse some day on top of me &#8230;so my guess is that i would have to rip the roof off completely and rebuild one? How much would that be?</p>
</div>
</div>
<p><!--more-->
<div class="answer">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/bob.png" /></p>
<h3>bob mcalister answers:</h3>
<p class="pocd-content">This is an extensive project.  With termites it is always an issue of how far they got.  If it is just some of the rafters, you may be lucky and be able to replace some of the damaged ones instead of all the supporting roof timber.  Rafters are easy once they are layed out properly and a pattern is made.  It takes a little work and manpower to get them into place.  If you find that it is necessary to replace all the roof totally, contact a lumberyard about getting truss&#8217;s made.  They are pre engineered rafters that will make your job easy.  It is simple as laying out your rafters on the top plates, using a crane to set them in place, centering them and installing plywood.  I know this isnt a fair representation of all the work needed, but I am hoping it is enough for you to realize this WILL BE an expensive undergoing.  Looking at 20-30 thousand for all said and done depending on your roof size.  Thats a guess based on trusses, plywood, and roofing material.  I hope this helps, good luck.</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="pocd-faq">
<div class="question">
<div class="asker">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/plugins/pageonecontentdynamo/headshots/Charles.png" width="80" height="80" /></p>
<p class="name">Charles asks…</p>
</div>
<div class="pocd-content">
<h2>What is a gable vent and where does it lead from the roof in?</h2>
<p>What exactly is a gable vent? From the roof, where does it go into the attic? Is there an opening in the attic where it comes in at? How can I close this off so squirrel&#8217;s and mice can&#8217;t enter? Thanks!</p>
</div>
</div>
<p><!--more-->
<div class="answer">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/bob.png" /></p>
<h3>bob mcalister answers:</h3>
<p class="pocd-content">It is a screened opening on the gable close to the hip (top) of the roof.  Hot air rises and accumulates around the hip of the roof.  On the soffit eaves, there are openings to help cooler air enter the attic and &#8220;push&#8221; the hot air up and out the vent.  It is more likely that the vermin are entering the attic through the soffit holes than through the gable vent.  Check to make sure there is screening intact over all the soffit holes.  This is the cheaper method than putting up aluminum or vinyl soffit panels, but may become necessary.</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="pocd-faq">
<div class="question">
<div class="asker">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/plugins/pageonecontentdynamo/headshots/Carol.png" width="80" height="80" /></p>
<p class="name">Carol asks…</p>
</div>
<div class="pocd-content">
<h2>How to fix a broken sun roof in a Mazda 6?</h2>
<p>I need the help of a Mazda Mechanic?<br />
I have a 2006 Mazda 6 and the sun roof stopped working for no apparent reason.<br />
My husband has looked for fuses and what not but cant find any thing.<br />
Does any one know what could be the matter?<br />
The roof is closed.  It doesnt appear to be stuck.  It worked fine and then one day I went to push the button and nothing.  Seems like more a short in the wire or fuse blown?</p>
</div>
</div>
<p><!--more-->
<div class="answer">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/bob.png" /></p>
<h3>bob mcalister answers:</h3>
<p class="pocd-content">Roof is jammed/thats a capsule/whole thing comes down and gets replaced/try wd 40 all over it and see if you can getit too close/see if you can get the gear in front exposed and get tool into it to manually close it/take your time and rock it back and forth/lube it freely</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="pocd-faq">
<div class="question">
<div class="asker">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/plugins/pageonecontentdynamo/headshots/Steven.png" width="80" height="80" /></p>
<p class="name">Steven asks…</p>
</div>
<div class="pocd-content">
<h2>How to prep a mossy roof for new shingles?</h2>
<p>The roof on my garage needs new shingles. They are asphalt and I plan on using asphalt for the new ones. The roof had a good amount of moss, I used a stiff broom to scrape the moss off. I then used a garden hose to rinse all the debris off. It is a lot better but still has some stubborn moss. Can I lay shingles over it or do I have to completely clean it off?</p>
</div>
</div>
<p><!--more-->
<div class="answer">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/bob.png" /></p>
<h3>bob mcalister answers:</h3>
<p class="pocd-content">It is always better to do a rip and replace. Meaning tearing off all the old roofing material and replacing it with new material. A go over reduces the shingle life of the replacement shingles, often it looks bulgy or humped, also adds additional weight to the building structure. And is twice as hard to remove the next time it has to be done. Besides if you take off all the old material the moss is no longer a issue. When you decide on replacing the shingles make sure you get a algae resistant shingle as well. Good luck EDIT: is moss growth on a roof  a indication of a high moisture conditions on the roof? Yes, due to the fact you probably have a considerable amount of trees near the house and the roof cannot dry out after it rains, therefore promoting algae, lichen, and moss growth. Ventilation: key word here is garage, 9 out of 10 garages are unheated areas, it is not mandatory to ventilate a unheated area. (recommended yes). Moss growth has very little to do with a ventilation problem, a heated unventilated area will promote moisture on the underside of your roof essentially rotting away your wood from the inside out. This is what usually causes plywood roof decking to de laminate. It will also promote mildew and mold growth inside the attic and on the underside of your roof decking.</p>
</div>
</div>
<p><small>Powered by Yahoo! Answers</small></p>
]]></content:encoded>
			<wfw:commentRss>http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/your-questions-about-roofs-35/feed/</wfw:commentRss>
		<slash:comments>0</slash:comments>
		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Your Questions About Roofing Supplies</title>
		<link>http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/your-questions-about-roofing-supplies-4/</link>
		<comments>http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/your-questions-about-roofing-supplies-4/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 07 May 2013 11:07:03 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>bob mcalister</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Topics]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/your-questions-about-roofing-supplies-4/</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Helen asks… What office supplies can I use to remotely pop a balloon? There are these big balloons (in celebration [...]]]></description>
				<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div class="pocd-faq">
<div class="question">
<div class="asker">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/plugins/pageonecontentdynamo/headshots/Helen.png" width="80" height="80" /></p>
<p class="name">Helen asks…</p>
</div>
<div class="pocd-content">
<h2>What office supplies can I use to remotely pop a balloon?</h2>
<p>There are these big balloons (in celebration of us hosting the world cup) hanging from the roof about six meters from where I am sitting. Man, I&#8217;d just love to remotely pop one of them, but nobody can no that it was me or that it was done intentionally by somebody (cause then they&#8217;d know it was me anyway).</p>
</div>
</div>
<p><span id="more-1239"></span>
<div class="answer">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/bob.png" /></p>
<h3>bob mcalister answers:</h3>
<p class="pocd-content">Bent staples and a rubber band- use it like a slingshot.</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="pocd-faq">
<div class="question">
<div class="asker">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/plugins/pageonecontentdynamo/headshots/Susan.png" width="80" height="80" /></p>
<p class="name">Susan asks…</p>
</div>
<div class="pocd-content">
<h2>Who supplied the roof deck material for Aloha Stadium, Hawaii in the last two years?</h2>
<p>Does anyone know who provided the <strong>roofing</strong> material for the current roof deck (the section which was replaced recently) on Aloha Stadium?</p>
</div>
</div>
<p><!--more-->
<div class="answer">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/bob.png" /></p>
<h3>bob mcalister answers:</h3>
<p class="pocd-content">Malaysians</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="pocd-faq">
<div class="question">
<div class="asker">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/plugins/pageonecontentdynamo/headshots/Richard.png" width="80" height="80" /></p>
<p class="name">Richard asks…</p>
</div>
<div class="pocd-content">
<h2>what tools to buy a roofer?</h2>
<p>For fathers day I would like to set him up fairly well with some new <strong>roofing</strong> <strong>supplies</strong>. Just have no idea where to begin as far as what&#8217;s most useful or best brands. Please  Help me pick a good tool belt and fill it with what he needs.</p>
</div>
</div>
<p><!--more-->
<div class="answer">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/bob.png" /></p>
<h3>bob mcalister answers:</h3>
<p class="pocd-content">Erin, that is a cumbersome job, meaning&#8230;.a hammer holder would be the best thing. I bet he could use a few pairs of cargo shorts.</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="pocd-faq">
<div class="question">
<div class="asker">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/plugins/pageonecontentdynamo/headshots/Thomas.png" width="80" height="80" /></p>
<p class="name">Thomas asks…</p>
</div>
<div class="pocd-content">
<h2>Does anyone know of any Firms in the South and Southeast areas that can supply and fit Decra roof tiles?</h2>
<p>These tiles were suggested recently as an answer to my question on polycarbonate <strong>roofing</strong>. Thank you again for your helpful contributions.<br />
&#8230;.. to a polycarbonate conservatory roof. Thank you again for answering.<br />
I have since contacted prestige developments but have not received an answer yet. </p>
<p>Also did contact decra website and via e-mail. They too have yet to respond.</p>
<p>Thank you all once again.<br />
Hope to check with B&amp;Q soon.</p>
</div>
</div>
<p><!--more-->
<div class="answer">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/bob.png" /></p>
<h3>bob mcalister answers:</h3>
<p class="pocd-content">There is a company called prestige developments .the tel number is 01933 433607 ,fax number is 01933 223028.<br />
They specialise in mobile home renovation and they are officially registerd decra contractors. I hope this sorts your problem out for you.</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="pocd-faq">
<div class="question">
<div class="asker">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/plugins/pageonecontentdynamo/headshots/Chris.png" width="80" height="80" /></p>
<p class="name">Chris asks…</p>
</div>
<div class="pocd-content">
<h2>we have a centralized a/c unit in our office. Now the problem is the moisture on the supply duct. Why ?</h2>
<p>Supply duct was installed above the ceiling board and it was distributed at the production area with supply diffusers. Above ducting is the <strong>roofing</strong> sheet with insulation. Supply duct  was insulated using fiberglass insulation. However, the main problem now is the presence of moisture along the duct line that would always damage our ceiling boards. Now we need your recommendations and suggestions on how to stop this problem or to improve our ducting system.</p>
</div>
</div>
<p><!--more-->
<div class="answer">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/bob.png" /></p>
<h3>bob mcalister answers:</h3>
<p class="pocd-content">Make sure the air filter is clean (ive seen this problem before),  have a service tech come make sure the unit is properly charged, and operating correctly,  operate the fan continiously (it costs more to start the fan motor than to let it run all the time)</p>
<p>just someplace to start</p>
</div>
</div>
<p><small>Powered by Yahoo! Answers</small></p>
]]></content:encoded>
			<wfw:commentRss>http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/your-questions-about-roofing-supplies-4/feed/</wfw:commentRss>
		<slash:comments>0</slash:comments>
		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Your Questions About Metal Roofing Materials</title>
		<link>http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/your-questions-about-metal-roofing-materials-6/</link>
		<comments>http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/your-questions-about-metal-roofing-materials-6/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 06 May 2013 11:07:02 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>bob mcalister</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Topics]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/your-questions-about-metal-roofing-materials-6/</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Carol asks… How much approx would a different roof cost? I have been given a quote on a 50 yr [...]]]></description>
				<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div class="pocd-faq">
<div class="question">
<div class="asker">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/plugins/pageonecontentdynamo/headshots/Carol.png" width="80" height="80" /></p>
<p class="name">Carol asks…</p>
</div>
<div class="pocd-content">
<h2>How much approx would a different roof cost?</h2>
<p>I have been given a quote on a 50 yr shingle (GAF Timberline HD) with peel and stick underlayment (which is good because I understand you have to have this for the Wind Mitigation discount on insurance).  They&#8217;ll replace the flashings around the chimneys, etc, fix some items that have been damaged by animals.  Anyway, I have a quote of $320/square from a master elite roofer and that includes the Golden Pledge Warranty so labor is covered for 25 years as well. Since this home is located in Tampa Bay, FL the lifetime roof, as it is called will last for only 20-30 years in the FL elements and then it will need to be replaced.  I anticipate still being in the house in 20 years.  Would it make more sense to buy a different roof, like a <strong>metal</strong> roof??? What are the pros &amp; cons of different <strong>roofing</strong> material?  How much per square should I be looking at for a <strong>metal</strong> roof or any other material you recommend?  </p>
<p>About the roof, it is cut up with multiple ridges, it has one of the steepest pitches you can walk on so it has great water shed.  I think it&#8217;s a 7/12?  Ask any other questions and I will check back. Thank you for your time!</p>
</div>
</div>
<p><span id="more-1238"></span>
<div class="answer">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/bob.png" /></p>
<h3>bob mcalister answers:</h3>
<p class="pocd-content">Stephanie, $320/sqft seems to be very high for the kind you want.  </p>
<p>Your best bet is to get additional LOCAL free written estimates from local roofing contractors&#8211;the rule of thumb is three, since a lot of money is involved. It&#8217;s important that you get a local estimate and not rely on guesses found here on Yah, as the cost of material and labor greatly varies by location. As it is, there are plenty of local roofing contractors seeking to give free estimates with no obligation, and taking advantage of this is the consumer-smart way to go about finding an accurate answer to your question</p>
<p>Here&#8217;s a great link to a handyman site that offers free very resourceful information to assist you in your project, and, ultimately, selecting a local roofing contractor in an effort to get the best deal for you:</p>
<p>ROOF ING CONTRACTOR INFO:</p>
<p>http://yourhandymanzone.com/Your_Handyman_Zone_Free_Estimates_Roofing.htm</p>
<p>I&#8217;m sure you&#8217;ll find the information you need, specifically the tips, useful as it relates to being treated fairly by contractors and exploring the consumer-wise approach of getting free written estimates to find the best contractor in your area.</p>
<p>.<br />
 Source(s):<br />
 The Internet. Just whatever is available online and what I have on my mind, including relevant sites like the one cited that came about from my creative efforts, which is intended to be useful.</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="pocd-faq">
<div class="question">
<div class="asker">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/plugins/pageonecontentdynamo/headshots/Jenny.png" width="80" height="80" /></p>
<p class="name">Jenny asks…</p>
</div>
<div class="pocd-content">
<h2>How to give a metal shed a new look? Adding shingles to a metal roof.?</h2>
<p>I would like to update my <strong>metal</strong> shed to match my house. I would like the roof to be black, to match my black shingles. The roof on the shed is not completely flat, some ridges from the design. I would like to apply a black material to it but I&#8217;m not sure if shingles are the best idea. Would shingles be too heavy for a <strong>metal</strong> roof? it&#8217;s 10&#8242; x 14&#8242;.</p>
<p>Here is a photo of the shed off the lowes website:   http://images.lowes.com/product/026862/026862100245.jpg</p>
<p>What is the best material to apply to the <strong>metal</strong> roof and  what would I use to attach it?</p>
<p>thanks</p>
</div>
</div>
<p><!--more-->
<div class="answer">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/bob.png" /></p>
<h3>bob mcalister answers:</h3>
<p class="pocd-content">You will not be able to put shingles down directly onto the metal roof due to the ridges in it.  As an alternative, you could put plywood on top of the metal roof probably and then shingles on the plywood.  Might be more than you&#8217;d want to spend just to have them match though, good luck!</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="pocd-faq">
<div class="question">
<div class="asker">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/plugins/pageonecontentdynamo/headshots/Sandy.png" width="80" height="80" /></p>
<p class="name">Sandy asks…</p>
</div>
<div class="pocd-content">
<h2>What is the best roof style in the Philippines climate?</h2>
<p>Ladion Builders frequently used for their costumer is Gable Type. Then, all <strong>materials</strong> they use to built a house are fire free; like long span color steel <strong>roofing</strong>, light <strong>metal</strong> for ceiling and drywall partition, gypsum board or hardiflex.</p>
</div>
</div>
<p><!--more-->
<div class="answer">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/bob.png" /></p>
<h3>bob mcalister answers:</h3>
<p class="pocd-content">I am an English man building in Tanzania. It&#8217;s best to copy what other people have done. They know the climate and the cost of local materials. If you build differently it will either cost you more or it will fail. For example, the electrician wired in a permanent lamp in the roof space. Why ? It keeps out the bats, who will crap in the roof and make your house uninhabitable. My advice is for you to take local advice.</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="pocd-faq">
<div class="question">
<div class="asker">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/plugins/pageonecontentdynamo/headshots/Ruth.png" width="80" height="80" /></p>
<p class="name">Ruth asks…</p>
</div>
<div class="pocd-content">
<h2>How do we handle tax exempt customers?</h2>
<p>My husband has been a contractor who just opened up his own lumber yard and <strong>metal</strong> <strong>roofing</strong> sales.  A farmer who is tax exempt just came in and purchased some material.  He gave us his tax exempt number, but I&#8217;m new at this and I don&#8217;t know what to do with it.  We had to pay taxes on the lumber &amp; <strong>metal</strong>, so if we don&#8217;t charge for that, that cuts deeply into our profit because my husband (as the newest sales biz) is charging so little in order to draw in customers.  This is not my thing, somebody please help.<br />
We are located in Tennessee (USA).</p>
</div>
</div>
<p><!--more-->
<div class="answer">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/bob.png" /></p>
<h3>bob mcalister answers:</h3>
<p class="pocd-content">This is your state tax site: http://state.tn.us/revenue/tntaxes/salesanduse.htm<br />
You will find all your information there.  You purchase without paying tax &#8211; your add a profit to the cost of material and sell to your customers, collecting sales tax at that time. At the end of the month or quarter you must pay the state the tax you have collected.  You would also pay use tax on any items that you purchases tax free for your own use such as office supplies and such (these you should have paid tax on when you purchased them since they are not part of your inventory for resale.  The farmer would fall into that same category &#8211; except he is trying to fly under the radar. When he purchases supplies (seedlings, plants, fertilizer etc) he would be tax exempt until he sells the end product.  He is not selling his barn &#8211; he should pay tax &#8211; but to avoid a pissing match with a new customer just take his certificate and call the tax department and ask them.  They should discover the error if and when they audit his books.  You will create a tax exempt sales account in your books which will be substantiated with the exempt certificates you collect from those customers who have them.  Your tax forms should have a place for that information. Ain&#8217;t being in business for yourself FUN?</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="pocd-faq">
<div class="question">
<div class="asker">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/plugins/pageonecontentdynamo/headshots/Charles.png" width="80" height="80" /></p>
<p class="name">Charles asks…</p>
</div>
<div class="pocd-content">
<h2>Joining PVC pipe to galvanized sheet metal for downspout?</h2>
<p>what&#8217;s the best way to connect these two <strong>materials</strong> together for use as a roof downspout? the pvc is 4&#8243;  diameter thick wall, 90 degree bend. can&#8217;t have screw threads on the inside of the opening due to leaves and twigs getting caught.</p>
</div>
</div>
<p><!--more-->
<div class="answer">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/bob.png" /></p>
<h3>bob mcalister answers:</h3>
<p class="pocd-content">You could use a fernco rubber coupling but don&#8217;t ever spend a cent in Home Depot unless you like getting ripped off. (long story)   I would get a 4&#8243; thin wall cap (it will fit into your sch 40 90 elbow) cut the shape of your downspout into it, slide the metal in and caulk the heck out of it.</p>
</div>
</div>
<p><small>Powered by Yahoo! Answers</small></p>
]]></content:encoded>
			<wfw:commentRss>http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/your-questions-about-metal-roofing-materials-6/feed/</wfw:commentRss>
		<slash:comments>0</slash:comments>
		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Your Questions About Metal Roofs Pricing</title>
		<link>http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/your-questions-about-metal-roofs-pricing-10/</link>
		<comments>http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/your-questions-about-metal-roofs-pricing-10/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sun, 05 May 2013 11:07:03 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>bob mcalister</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Topics]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/your-questions-about-metal-roofs-pricing-10/</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[William asks… Mobile Home Roof needs to be re-sealed.Should I use the older tar w/ aluminum particles or the newer [...]]]></description>
				<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div class="pocd-faq">
<div class="question">
<div class="asker">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/plugins/pageonecontentdynamo/headshots/William.png" width="80" height="80" /></p>
<p class="name">William asks…</p>
</div>
<div class="pocd-content">
<h2>Mobile Home Roof needs to be re-sealed.Should I use the older tar w/ aluminum particles or the newer acrylics?</h2>
<p>I know I need to seal arond all the vents so I figue I will do the whole roof. I can&#8217;t seem to find anyone who can tell me if the newer more reflective coatings will work on my 25 yearr old roof. They are twice the price but are suppose to last 3-4x longer. I am sure they will work on the flat sections, my concern is where the roof folds over the edge and is attached to the sides.</p>
</div>
</div>
<p><span id="more-1237"></span>
<div class="answer">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/bob.png" /></p>
<h3>bob mcalister answers:</h3>
<p class="pocd-content">I have been researching this exact thing for my job as a maintenance manager. Our building is 500,000 sq ft metal roof (which leaks). I am so impressed with a couple of products I am thinking on using it on my Mobile home.<br />
You didn&#8217;t say if your roof was metal, or shingled so I am going to tell you about 2 different products. The first from AMES is a water based Acrylic/ rubber product which they claim has a stretchability of 750% (it is very stretchy) and will cover either a metal roof or a shingled roof.  It will also reflect 90% of the suns rays and make your home cooler and save you on energy bills.<br />
The second is a petroleum based product from Truco it does and acts pretty much the same as the other, but they don&#8217;t recomend it for shingles. It seems to be thicker, when applied. It has an oder, but dries faster, and resist wash off in case it rains while our appling it. It also reflects the sun and saves you energy, and keeps your home cooler.<br />
Yes, they both cost a little more, but I figure I can coat my roof for around 350.00 and have a good roof for many years. I don&#8217;t know about you but my moble home gets mighty hot in the summer, and I know I will save a bunch of money on A/C bills if I do this.</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="pocd-faq">
<div class="question">
<div class="asker">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/plugins/pageonecontentdynamo/headshots/Donna.png" width="80" height="80" /></p>
<p class="name">Donna asks…</p>
</div>
<div class="pocd-content">
<h2>If metal prices continue to rise, will people start selling their plumbing?</h2>
<p>The central planners say there&#8217;s not enough gold around to create a gold standard so they continue to flood the economy with paper money that&#8217;s driving the <strong>metal</strong> prices through the roof. Combine this with exported manufacturing increases that create unemployment and removes main the avenue for the lower classes to achieve middle-class status and becomes obvious that our society is going down the toilet.<br />
The wealthy are destroying the middle-classes and this is being supported by government because its the wealthy that get them re-elected.</p>
<p>So I&#8217;m wondering, how long will it be before people start selling their own plumbing?<br />
(My advice would be to sell it the day before the bank repossesses your property.)<br />
@djaca70<br />
Central planners would be governments, federal reserve and the wealthy elite who dictate to government in exchange for electoral donations and other individual capitalist ventures that politicians might be conducting whilst in public office. You know, what any sane normal person would call corruption but which is acceptable if your in the 1% and your authority extends that of the police commissioner.<br />
@djaca70<br />
I agree it sounds absurd, HOWEVER, if the prices continue to rise as they have done for the last 4/5 years, it won&#8217;t be long until the copper pipes are worth more than the land the house is built on. This recession will NEVER end until they stop printing more money and eventually, local <strong>metal</strong> prices will start to exceed global prices if we continue to export it all to china. The whole economic structure of society right now is broken and it will continue to get worse with all this quantitative easing which is just delaying the inevitable collapse. This is the consequences of a debt based monetary system.<br />
@Random Guy<br />
I agree with most of what you said and I liked the way you pointed out my &#8216;rant&#8217; A rant is only a rant when people don&#8217;t like the facts of what is being said. Every online article, newspaper is just a rant to someone. Anyway, you were wrong about copper prices, they are predicted to continue to rise for the foreseeable future by many of the most respected commodity traders. Research it like I have and you will see I&#8217;m speaking the truth. &#8211; You can&#8217;t look at daily or weekly trends for metals and announce a change. There is no justifiable good reason for the trends to change right now so they will CONTINUE to rise as China continues to buy.<br />
@Random Guy<br />
Gold will not deflate either, not for a while. I would LOVE to put a wager on this with you but it&#8217;s more profitable for me to use that money to buy gold. Haha. I believe gold will reach 3k an ounce in the next year. Gold will NEVER decline while your still in a recession. The recession is predicted for another 3-5 years so gold will keep rising for 3-5 years. It&#8217;s basic economics.</p>
</div>
</div>
<p><!--more-->
<div class="answer">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/bob.png" /></p>
<h3>bob mcalister answers:</h3>
<p class="pocd-content">People will not cannibalize their own plumbing. Instead, they will steal pipes from abandoned or poorly guarded buildings. </p>
<p>That has been happening a lot in collapsed economies like former soviet union. And it has lead to quite a few Darwin Awards as people tried to steal live wires or structural beams. </p>
<p>It even happens in US. I hear people steal empty kegs when bars put them out for pickup by beer companies.</p>
<p>Regarding your rant:<br />
- Your list of &#8220;central planners&#8221; omits the labor unions that are primary force behind Democratic party. And labor unions mostly represent the middle-class and poor people. </p>
<p>- Copper price has peaked and began declining:</p>
<p>http://www.infomine.com/investment/metal-prices/copper/all/</p>
<p>- Gold is mostly fiat too. 90% of it is bought and stored not for some productive use, but to sell it at a later day. Kinda like people were &#8220;investing&#8221; into houses during the bubble. Look at gold price:</p>
<p>http://www.infomine.com/investment/metal-prices/gold/all/</p>
<p>it was increasing 3 times faster than inflation for the past 7 years, just like house prices before the bubble burst:</p>
<p>http://www.jparsons.net/housingbubble/</p>
<p>Gold bubble will deflate as well. So sell your gold while price is high.</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="pocd-faq">
<div class="question">
<div class="asker">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/plugins/pageonecontentdynamo/headshots/Mark.png" width="80" height="80" /></p>
<p class="name">Mark asks…</p>
</div>
<div class="pocd-content">
<h2>can a log home be remolded to include larger windows and bigger front entrances?</h2>
<p>We are thinking of purchasing a log cabin that is about 30 years old. How difficult and expensive would it be to change/heighten the front entrance and add much larger windows for more natural lighting?<br />
It has a huge <strong>metal</strong> roof that slopes over the top and it looks rather odd and unattractive from the front<br />
All one sees is the roof basically. We would eventually like to redo the front entrance and add/ enlarge the windows in the front and on the sides of the cabin. Would this be a difficult or impossible task?<br />
Would this be very costly to do?</p>
</div>
</div>
<p><!--more-->
<div class="answer">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/bob.png" /></p>
<h3>bob mcalister answers:</h3>
<p class="pocd-content">=== the costs and the work will be provided by the company that offers you the best BID and service .. It will not be costly as will be relative to building another log home &#8230; Choose the door that you like and see that cost and then find the cost that a bidder will charge and key off those prices === you will want to take photos of before and after remodeling === you should try to get several bids and talk about the work to be performed [[[ do not take on a bidder that wants front money -- that is a rip-off tactic --- so, you pay for work when done that is correct business ]]] also before you move into the home ask the bidders to estimate a finished NEW roof &#8212; so you know and can possibly do the roof before you have all your furniture and things in the house &#8230; Talk that over with the spouse &#8230;.. Some areas have better construction rates than others &#8212; that&#8217;s why you need bids &#8230;&#8230;.</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="pocd-faq">
<div class="question">
<div class="asker">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/plugins/pageonecontentdynamo/headshots/Sharon.png" width="80" height="80" /></p>
<p class="name">Sharon asks…</p>
</div>
<div class="pocd-content">
<h2>How does the price of making repairs on a manufactured house compare with making repairs on a regular house?</h2>
<p>My husband and I are considering purchasing a mobile/manufactured house. I know that you have to purchase special parts for a mobile house. I know that the doors and even the furnace and hot water heater and cabinets and so many other parts are specially designed for a mobile home. My question is how does the price compare with having to replace or repair things on a traditional site built home? Are the prices higher, lower or about the same. Thank you and may God bless you!</p>
</div>
</div>
<p><!--more-->
<div class="answer">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/bob.png" /></p>
<h3>bob mcalister answers:</h3>
<p class="pocd-content">As far as I can tell, after living in this 1990 mobile for 6 years, the cost of fixing stuff is about exactly the same as in a regular house. Mind you, I haven&#8217;t had to make any major repairs. As far as I can tell, also, most of the stuff in this house is exactly the same as in a stick built house. The same is probably true for any reasonably modern mobile. I don&#8217;t know how old the one is that you&#8217;re looking at. Take a tape measure and use your eyes when you look at it. You&#8217;ll soon know if stuff is different from a site built home.</p>
<p>My interior doors are 28&#8243; x 80&#8243;. My exterior doors are 32 x 80&#8243; I can buy both sizes at Home Depot, non-custom. If you find yourself sidling and ducking down to get through doorways when you view this home, there&#8217;s your clue that the doorways are small. You will still be able to find doors to fit them. How often do you replace doors, anyway?</p>
<p>My water heater came from a similar store. I didn&#8217;t buy it, but the store sticker is still on it. You can, in any case, buy water heaters off the shelf small enough to fit under a counter, so unless you have a water heater more like something meant for an RV, you can buy one at any big box lumber store.</p>
<p>I don&#8217;t know about the furnace, but I don&#8217;t know why it would be a different size from an electric furnace meant to heat any house this size.</p>
<p>My sinks and faucets and toilets and bath tubs and shower enclosure are exactly what you find in millions of stick built homes.</p>
<p>My kitchen and bathroom cabinets are standard size. If I wanted to replace them, I&#8217;d get some from Ikea and have the same fitting problems I&#8217;d have in retrofitting cabinets to any existing kitchen.</p>
<p>My windows are not standard double glazed windows but if I was forced to replace them, something I didn&#8217;t have to do in 30 years of owning conventional homes, I could find something to fit the openings. They can be custom made if worst comes to worst, something you might have to do in a stick-built home anyway if your windows are not a standard size.</p>
<p>Unless the home has single glazed windows and you want to upgrade or unless one of them gets totally destroyed, how often do you replace windows?</p>
<p>If I ever have to replace the entire plumbing system, I can see that costing more than usual, or at least more than a house with pipes in an open basement, because the pipes are inside the insulation in the underbelly. It might not cost any more than replacing pipes in a place with a finished basement where you&#8217;d have to tear down a ceiling to get at them and put it back up after.</p>
<p>My drywall is slightly thinner than it is in most stick-built homes. I can buy that thickness, though unless I&#8217;m trying to replace only part of a wall, I would buy the thicker stuff which is cheaper.</p>
<p>My wiring is exactly the same as in a stick-built house.</p>
<p>If I needed a new roof, I might have to go with metal because of the weight and that would probably cost more than shingles. Of course, most metal lasts 5 times as long as shingles, so on a cost per year basis it&#8217;s no more expensive.</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="pocd-faq">
<div class="question">
<div class="asker">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/plugins/pageonecontentdynamo/headshots/Sandy.png" width="80" height="80" /></p>
<p class="name">Sandy asks…</p>
</div>
<div class="pocd-content">
<h2>About how much $ to rip off and replace roof on 8X16 room on a trailer?</h2>
<p>Just looking for a range to go by. Right now the roof is just sheet <strong>metal</strong> with no support 2&#215;2 or 2&#215;4&#8242;s. Some terrible DIYer built this roof and I need this rebuilt the right way.</p>
</div>
</div>
<p><!--more-->
<div class="answer">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/bob.png" /></p>
<h3>bob mcalister answers:</h3>
<p class="pocd-content">This can easy enough to find out by getting a least 2/3 estimates on cost of putting a new roof on.  What kind of materials are needed, quality of roofing (cheap or something that will last for many years), labor costs.  Make sure you hire a qualified person to do this job.  </p>
<p>Could ask friends, neighbors, etc. For qualified company and if they were satisfied with work done.  Word of mouth is often the best way to go to find an honest company to deal with.</p>
<p>If you plan on &#8220;do it your self&#8221; the same applies.  Go to at least three companies that deal in roofing, ask for estimates, guarantees,can they be trusted, cost.  Again, ask friend, neighbors and/or others about which company they dealt with and quality of work and no run rounds.  </p>
<p>Also makes a difference if you&#8217;re going to have old roof completely removed and replaced with new.  Do the leg work and get all estimates put down on paper so you don&#8217;t forget prices which they should do any way.</p>
</div>
</div>
<p><small>Powered by Yahoo! Answers</small></p>
]]></content:encoded>
			<wfw:commentRss>http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/your-questions-about-metal-roofs-pricing-10/feed/</wfw:commentRss>
		<slash:comments>0</slash:comments>
		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Your Questions About Metal Roofing</title>
		<link>http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/your-questions-about-metal-roofing-6/</link>
		<comments>http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/your-questions-about-metal-roofing-6/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sat, 04 May 2013 11:07:02 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>bob mcalister</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Topics]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/your-questions-about-metal-roofing-6/</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Carol asks… need a roof mount attic fan for a hip metal roof. What kind will work on a metal [...]]]></description>
				<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div class="pocd-faq">
<div class="question">
<div class="asker">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/plugins/pageonecontentdynamo/headshots/Carol.png" width="80" height="80" /></p>
<p class="name">Carol asks…</p>
</div>
<div class="pocd-content">
<h2>need a roof mount attic fan for a hip metal roof. What kind will work on a metal roof, and not leak?</h2>
<p>Also, there is 4 box shaped vents on the roof, I am going to install a <strong>metal</strong> roof in a couple weeks. I want to remove the 4 vents and add a solar powered attic fan. Will the perforated soffit provide enough air intake for the attic fan? This way i can do away with the ugly vents and have just the one attic fan. Thanks</p>
</div>
</div>
<p><span id="more-1236"></span>
<div class="answer">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/bob.png" /></p>
<h3>bob mcalister answers:</h3>
<p class="pocd-content">Your question poses several other questions&#8230;.sorry&#8230;..i&#8217;m a professional roofer who installs metal roofing everyday.first of all if your soffitt vents are installed properly they&#8217;ll do their job.  The box vents can be removed , more holes cut in the existing roof  (towards the ridge)&#8230;and have a vented ridge installed. They are made for metal roofing these days.this is a passive technique and requires no wiring or mechanicals&#8230;&#8230;solar powered attic fan?&#8230;.perhaps if you&#8217;re in the southern belt&#8230;&#8230;anyway &#8230;.all things considered it comes down to flashing this fan in the end&#8230;..the roofer should be able to do this&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.i&#8217;m known as THE ROOF DOCTOR in these parts&#8230;..upstate NY</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="pocd-faq">
<div class="question">
<div class="asker">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/plugins/pageonecontentdynamo/headshots/Ken.png" width="80" height="80" /></p>
<p class="name">Ken asks…</p>
</div>
<div class="pocd-content">
<h2>Which roof provides a cooler temperature; ceramic roof or metal roof?</h2>
<p>Some <strong>metal</strong> roof manufacturer claims that their roof is cooler than the old ceramic roof. True? Any literature to support this?</p>
</div>
</div>
<p><!--more-->
<div class="answer">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/bob.png" /></p>
<h3>bob mcalister answers:</h3>
<p class="pocd-content">Http://www.edcmag.com/Articles/Cool_Roof/f99aabe75d697010VgnVCM100000f932a8c0____</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="pocd-faq">
<div class="question">
<div class="asker">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/plugins/pageonecontentdynamo/headshots/Lisa.png" width="80" height="80" /></p>
<p class="name">Lisa asks…</p>
</div>
<div class="pocd-content">
<h2>How do you attach gutters to a metal patio roof overhang?</h2>
<p>Have a patio with a <strong>metal</strong> roof with about a 12in overhang. Is there an easy way to attach gutters??</p>
</div>
</div>
<p><!--more-->
<div class="answer">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/bob.png" /></p>
<h3>bob mcalister answers:</h3>
<p class="pocd-content">If there&#8217;s absolutely no wood, then buy metal gutter straps which wrap around the gutter.  You can screw these into the metal roof, or even better, use large rivets.  If the holes created by the screws or rivets can possibly create a leak problem, make sure you clean the metal and seal it up with a commercial/industrial grade silicone sealant [Tremco or similar, not DAP, not GE (typical household interior sealants) -- roofing environment is very harsh -- Tremco will hold up for a long time].</p>
<p>If there&#8217;s strong solid wood at all, attach it to the wood somehow, gem circle, hidden hangars, spike and ferrules, whatever will work best.</p>
<p>Sounds like you will want what is called Half-round gutters.  Usually these come in copper or galvanized steel, but they are making aluminum half-round now so you should consider the aluminum also.</p>
<p>Really it would be good if you could provide us with more info, or even a picture of how it is now.</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="pocd-faq">
<div class="question">
<div class="asker">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/plugins/pageonecontentdynamo/headshots/Chris.png" width="80" height="80" /></p>
<p class="name">Chris asks…</p>
</div>
<div class="pocd-content">
<h2>Can you use Great Stuff foam as insulation under a metal roof?</h2>
<p>Have a patio with <strong>metal</strong> roof, gets very hot during summer. Will Great Stuff insulate and stick to hot roof during summer? Thanks</p>
</div>
</div>
<p><!--more-->
<div class="answer">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/bob.png" /></p>
<h3>bob mcalister answers:</h3>
<p class="pocd-content">Great Stuff (and similar products) stick to just about anything&#8230;and with vengeance.  If you haven&#8217;t used it ever, DO NOT let it get on anything else: it is the nastiest.<br />
To your Q; It&#8217;s possible to cut this stuff after it dries up, but still would look like crap.<br />
Get some sheets of &#8216;blue board&#8217; (an extruded polystyrene) and cut it to fit around structural members.  Cuts with a hand saw, knife, and is easy to work.<br />
There&#8217;s a glue for it but I haven&#8217;t used it on all surfaces.<br />
It would look far better than Great Stuff alone.</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="pocd-faq">
<div class="question">
<div class="asker">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/plugins/pageonecontentdynamo/headshots/William.png" width="80" height="80" /></p>
<p class="name">William asks…</p>
</div>
<div class="pocd-content">
<h2>I&#8217;m looking for a portable AM radio that will work in a large stadium made of concrete with a metal roof.?</h2>
<p>I want to listen to the play-by-play at football games but it is tough to get good reception inside even though the station has a strong signal and is close.  Does anyone know of a portable AM radio or headset that gets good reception in difficult conditions like a concrete stadium with a <strong>metal</strong> roof?  Your help would be greatly appreciated.</p>
</div>
</div>
<p><!--more-->
<div class="answer">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/bob.png" /></p>
<h3>bob mcalister answers:</h3>
<p class="pocd-content">The main issue is that with a portable set, you don&#8217;t have a big enough antenna to pull in the signal.  All I can think of to try is sit toward the back and/or on the side of the stadium toward the station so there&#8217;s less concrete and metal the signal has to get through.</p>
<p>Another possibility is you could check and see if the stadium has a frequency where they broadcast the play-by-play for in-stadium listening.  For example, the arena where our local junior league hockey team plays broadcasts the play-by-play at the top end of the FM dial for people to hear in the arena, as well as on a local AM station.</p>
</div>
</div>
<p><small>Powered by Yahoo! Answers</small></p>
]]></content:encoded>
			<wfw:commentRss>http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/your-questions-about-metal-roofing-6/feed/</wfw:commentRss>
		<slash:comments>0</slash:comments>
		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Your Questions About Roofing With Strength</title>
		<link>http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/your-questions-about-roofing-with-strength-3/</link>
		<comments>http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/your-questions-about-roofing-with-strength-3/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 03 May 2013 11:07:03 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>bob mcalister</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Topics]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/your-questions-about-roofing-with-strength-3/</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Nancy asks… Does it take weakness, or does it take strength? A permanent solution to a temporary problem &#8211; that [...]]]></description>
				<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div class="pocd-faq">
<div class="question">
<div class="asker">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/plugins/pageonecontentdynamo/headshots/Nancy.png" width="80" height="80" /></p>
<p class="name">Nancy asks…</p>
</div>
<div class="pocd-content">
<h2>Does it take weakness, or does it take strength?</h2>
<p>A permanent solution to a temporary problem &#8211; that is what the wise and good people state to help. The way they make suicide look like a decision based on cowardice is remarkable, when in the end it is a clear statement of one&#8217;s <strong>strength</strong> &#8211; at least mine. I cannot speak for all those others.</p>
<p>For all those others that take sleeping pills to attract attention.</p>
<p>For those that wait on the roof of a skyscraper until someone notices them to call the cops.</p>
<p>I can only speak for myself, and my decision is not based on weakness but on absolute power. Hamlet said it, Schopenhauer, Nietzsche, Camus and Sartre considered the question.</p>
<p>It is not based on weakness but on a free will, the liberty to contemplate the unthinkable. It is a question only the strongest can face.</p>
<p>They say it is easy to escape life but hard to go on <strong>with</strong> it. What fools. How many people can hold a gun to their head and pull the trigger?</p>
<p>How many can cut a knife into their arms to pierce arteries and veins?</p>
<p>How many can make the little step off a skyscraper?</p>
<p>How many can swallow the cyanide pill?</p>
<p>Small movements, a jerk of an index finger, a cut, a step, a swallow.</p>
<p>How many think they can do that but have to face their weakness on the doorsteps of a mysterious, scaring new existence?</p>
<p>How many have the mental <strong>strength</strong> to deal <strong>with</strong> such a decision?</p>
<p>How many can question their lives?</p>
<p>How many can face the fact that all they have done is useless and that there is no use apart from procreation -and what kind of a goal is that? Fucking, as the meaning of life. A goal for rabbits, for sheep, not for humans. And yet it is good enough for most.</p>
<p>To wait, to wait for something to come, to save them, something that does not exist, something that does not come. And so they keep on giving birth while standing on their graves, waiting like sheep.</p>
<p>How many can ask those questions?</p>
<p>How many can draw the consequences?</p>
<p>Those mentioned philosophers did not. None of them did agree to it in the end. None of them. Because suicide is wrong? Because as Nietzsche stated, the philosopher has to live his thoughts and hence set an example in dying. None of them were strong enough to do that. Whimps. Intellectual wankers, smart asses, suckers. Unworthy to have been read by me.</p>
<p>It is easy to live, to go on <strong>with</strong> it, to stand the treatmill. All you have to do is switch off your brains, not think, do what you are told and expected to and you will get old. There is nothing easier than living. Man is built to endure pain. He can easily bear the whips and scorns of time as long as he doesn&#8217;t question them, and as long as he is not confident enough to wonder whether it is worth suffering. All it takes is to stick to the routine. There is nothing simpler than that.</p>
<p>Yeah, sure they will find reasons when they dig in my past. They will say:</p>
<p>He could not stand the pressure his profession had put on him, he had always suffered from depression, he was suffering from a broken heart when his girlfriend left him. He could not stand loneliness, unrequited love of all sorts. He was too sensitive.</p>
<p>Those would be their words.</p>
<p>Bullshit.</p>
<p>And they will be feigning sympathy and compassion, they will look at the art, the literature and state how great it was, what a loss it is, what a great future lay ahead of him.</p>
<p>The sympathy of the deaf, dumb and blind, the braindead, the sympathy of the hens in the battery.</p>
<p>This is not the reason.</p>
<p>Sure, I am bleeding all over the place, sure I am suffering from pressure, sure I have always been depressed, sure all of this is true. But it is not the reason. I am not doing this out of pain. This is a decision based on positivity. Lust for life. But not that stale and dull life. Real life, genuine emotions.</p>
<p>To shake off this mortal coil,<br />
To step up to the Gods and to spit in their faces,<br />
To make the final decision, the only one that cannot be undone.<br />
Knowing that it might be a terrible mistake, a Faustian mistake, a bargain <strong>with</strong> the devil.<br />
A voluntary step into something unknown.<br />
Emptyness?<br />
Heaven?<br />
Hell?</p>
<p>Suicide is not based on weakness, it is based on absolute power &#8211; at least in my case.</p>
<p>Imagine:</p>
<p>To stand on top of the highest cliff.<br />
To feel the wind tearing at my clothes, the elements.<br />
The only truth left in a world of lies and hypocrisy.<br />
The beauty of the abyss.<br />
The anticipation, like anticipating the greatest sex, an existential foreplay.<br />
Looking down into oblivion and voidness.<br />
The ground far, far away as it seems from here, but in reality only a couple of seconds away.<br />
Standing there.<br />
Feeling eternity in a restricted world.<br />
Feeling a decision in a prefabricated existence.</p>
<p>To draw the final breath,<br />
To make that little step,<br />
To know, that for once a decision was made,<br />
To feel one foot above the abyss,<br />
To think for a split second you can float in the air like the cartoon characters on TV,<br />
To feel losing balance,<br />
To fall,<br />
To gain speed,<br />
To have the air<br />
tear at your hair and clothes,<br />
To feel the cold wind violently caress you,<br />
To see the ground coming closer,<br />
To scream in orgiastic excitement,<br />
To know what you have done,<br />
To know that you have done something for once.</p>
<p>Maybe even: To doubt,<br />
To regret,<br />
To wish yourself back to the top of the peak that you are pacing away from.<br />
Mercilessly<br />
To fly into annihilation,<br />
To see the truth, whether it is a beautiful or an unbearable truth for the fraction of a second only.</p>
<p>Those 10 seconds would be &#8211; must be &#8211; will be much more revealing than 10 years of most other people,<br />
Than the whole life of most other people. More true, essential, focused, divine. Purer. 70 years forced into seconds. Refined into pure knowledge and truth.</p>
<p>Those 10 seconds would be &#8211; must be &#8211; will be worth a lifetime.</p>
<p>A worthy payment for endless agony</p>
<p>No more endless, unbearable pain.<br />
No more routine.<br />
No more repetition.<br />
No more</p>
<p>&#8211; Peace.</p>
<p>To sleep, perchance to dream.</p>
<p>To give in to the<br />
to the tiredness.</p>
<p>To fall asleep.</p>
<p>To find solace.</p>
<p>No more agony.</p>
<p>To end.</p>
<p>The end.<br />
I&#8217;m not quoting a movie, although you&#8217;re correct in assuming I didn&#8217;t write it. I found it. It was titled &#8216;To Shake off Mortal Coils; Last Entry into A Diary&#8217; and it touched me deeply.</p>
<p>But you see, that&#8217;s the exact attitude I hate. Can you honestly say people who killed themselves were just stupid? Did you really overcome these feelings, or did you push them out of your mind?</p>
</div>
</div>
<p><span id="more-1235"></span>
<div class="answer">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/bob.png" /></p>
<h3>bob mcalister answers:</h3>
<p class="pocd-content">If your killing yourself for power then you must Truly be a weak man.</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="pocd-faq">
<div class="question">
<div class="asker">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/plugins/pageonecontentdynamo/headshots/Betty.png" width="80" height="80" /></p>
<p class="name">Betty asks…</p>
</div>
<div class="pocd-content">
<h2>Is there any way to have the roof framed such that the framing height is only 2&#8243; but has sufficient strength?</h2>
<p>I basically have to make a walk in chamber inside a laboratory and the height of the laboratory limits the height of my chamber. More-over  the chamber is to be lined in <strong>with</strong> wedges which are 13.5&#8243; in depth. Considering that and still trying to make it a walk-in chamber, I have very little left for the framing. I tried putting 2&#215;4 studs flat for the roof and my calculations gave me a deflection of 0.5&#8243;. Can I enforce it somehow without incresing the height of framing?<br />
The chamber is an anechoic chamber but it doesnt need to be completely sound proof since it is inside another room. The lab ceiling has an I beam running its length, and also some water pipes hanging on the ceiling, which restrict the height of our chamber. The total avaiable height for the chamber now is 120-122&#8243;. Since we have to vibrationally damp the chamber, that reduces another 5&#8243;. Since we need a walk-in chamber, it must atleast be 6&#8242;, and since the chamber inner dimension is a multiple of the wedge (anechoic wedges), and adding the depth of wedges of the floor and the ceiling, i get a total height (minus framing ad vibrational damping) of around 111&#8243;. Adding 5&#8243; for vibrational damping, I am left <strong>with</strong> only 4-6&#8243; for the framing of both the floor and the ceiling.<br />
I cannot add a column as the interior of the chamber has to be obstruction free. There is nothing on the roof apart from the wegdes,  500lbs worth of which are on the roof.<br />
The chamber ext plan is 3.2&#215;3.4 m</p>
</div>
</div>
<p><!--more-->
<div class="answer">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/bob.png" /></p>
<h3>bob mcalister answers:</h3>
<p class="pocd-content">Can you give us some more details? What is the total height to the lab ceiling? What is the purpose of the chamber (Airtight? Soundproof? Etc.)? How much weight will be on the roof? What are the plan dimensions of the chamber? Could you elaborate on the wedges, and how they are relevant? </p>
<p>0.5&#8243; sounds like a lot of deflection. Either the chamber is big (could you add a column?), or there&#8217;s something heavy on the roof.</p>
<p>Does the chamber even have to have a roof? Can you attach the walls to the lab ceiling so it acts as ceiling for the chamber also?</p>
<p>Edit: I concur with your calculated deflection of 0.5&#8243; (I used a span of 10&#8242;). I assumed you have the joists touching (spacing 3.5&#8243;), which is as strong as you can go with 1.5&#8243; thickness.</p>
<p>Can you spare another 3/4&#8243;? If you take those 2&#215;4 joists and glue them to sheets of 3/4&#8243; plywood, you get a structural panel of depth 2.25&#8243;, but its moment of inertia goes from 3.375 in^4 per foot of width to 11.4 in^4. Given the same wedge load (I used 5 psf), you get a deflection of 0.14&#8243;, bending stress of 178 psi, and a horizontal shear stress of 3.33 psi &#8211; all well within allowable levels for pine lumber. Note that every joist must be 100% glued to the plywood to get the composite action and the higher moment of inertia.</p>
<p>Could you sacrifice the thickness of your floor framing if necessary?</p>
<p>Could you add stiffeners along the top of the roof, strategically located to miss the I-beam and water pipes? Do they all run the same direction?</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="pocd-faq">
<div class="question">
<div class="asker">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/plugins/pageonecontentdynamo/headshots/George.png" width="80" height="80" /></p>
<p class="name">George asks…</p>
</div>
<div class="pocd-content">
<h2>Does this sound bad to say as a strength and weakness for my interview tomorrow?</h2>
<p>Weakness- My weakness would be that I can sometimes be too self-critical of myself. I don`t like to displease the people I am around so I try to perfect everything I do and if I do make an error, it can stress me out the rest of the day. But i`ve started to understand that I shouldn`t beat myself up over minor mistakes because they are bound to happen occasionally and if anything I can learn from the mistakes so I don`t do them a second time around. <strong>Strength</strong>- My <strong>strength</strong> would be that I  work well <strong>with</strong> a variety of people. I understand that there are many types of personalities under one roof when working at a job and that everyone handles situations differently. I work well <strong>with</strong> my coworkers and can find a compromise or solution to a problem that may arise without it esclading into something further&#8230;do these sound bad to say at my interview tomorrow if they ask. I`m 19 so i`m tryiing my best to make a good impression of myself. It`s for a yogurt shop. thanks in advance.</p>
</div>
</div>
<p><!--more-->
<div class="answer">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/bob.png" /></p>
<h3>bob mcalister answers:</h3>
<p class="pocd-content">I agree- too emotional. Rather say that your weakness is that you are a perfectionist and that you always make sure that your work is done to the best of your ability and leave no room for error. The idea is to portray your weakness as a strength. So you can also add that you find it difficult to deal with minor errors because you are a perfectionist, but are also good at finding solutions to errors or problems</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="pocd-faq">
<div class="question">
<div class="asker">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/plugins/pageonecontentdynamo/headshots/Mary.png" width="80" height="80" /></p>
<p class="name">Mary asks…</p>
</div>
<div class="pocd-content">
<h2>I am getting involved with a woman that has a family and I don&#8217;t want to lead her on.?</h2>
<p>I am 33 and have no children. I recently got back in touch <strong>with</strong> an old friend from high school and we went out a few times. One thing lead to another and we have spent a few days together. The thing is she has 4 kids one daughter <strong>with</strong> a child of her own. I like her as a person and she&#8217;s even attractive to me. However, I would like to have kids some day, she&#8217;s told me she can not have children. Also, I&#8217;ve never been involved <strong>with</strong> someone <strong>with</strong> all those kids under one roof. I admire her <strong>strength</strong> and know she&#8217;s a struggler. But, what about me? I&#8217;m very kind and I want to help her youngest son and at the same time I want my own one day. It&#8217;s only been one week but this needs to stop before I hurt a whole family and myself. Does anyone understand me? What would you say to this friend?</p>
</div>
</div>
<p><!--more-->
<div class="answer">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/bob.png" /></p>
<h3>bob mcalister answers:</h3>
<p class="pocd-content">What I would say to her: &#8220;I really like and admire you, and if circumstances were different, I could have seen us together.  However, circumstances are what they are, so I must sadly bid you good-bye and set you free to find someone who would be a better fit for you in your life.&#8221;</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="pocd-faq">
<div class="question">
<div class="asker">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/plugins/pageonecontentdynamo/headshots/Maria.png" width="80" height="80" /></p>
<p class="name">Maria asks…</p>
</div>
<div class="pocd-content">
<h2>Is higher strength concrete more or less prone to cracking?</h2>
<p>I am pouring a concrete roof/ceiling over my basement entrance tomorrow (12&#8242;x13&#8242;). I have the center peaked so the center is much lighter than the outside edges. It will be setting on poured concrete walls. I ordered the concrete earlier today and asked for the strongest concrete they had. One thing led to another &amp; the guy told me he could make 5000 PSI concrete. I didn&#8217;t even know 5000 existed-I thought 4000 was the strongest (I&#8217;m having the structural fiber in it too). I have ALOT of 5/8&#8243; rebar ($300 worth) ran in both directions thru the form <strong>with</strong> ALOT of bracing underneath. Anyhoo, does higher PSI concrete tend to crack more or less then lower PSI crete? Maybe I&#8217;m just thinking crazy cause I&#8217;m nervous about the pour. I&#8217;m thinking maybe it&#8217;s possible 3000 or 4000 PSI concrete would tend not to crack because it flexes ever so slightly? I don&#8217;t know&#8230; Any concrete gurus please advise. Thanx!</p>
</div>
</div>
<p><!--more-->
<div class="answer">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/bob.png" /></p>
<h3>bob mcalister answers:</h3>
<p class="pocd-content">Concrete will do two things. Get hard and crack. The goal is to keep any crack from becoming a break. It sounds like you have taken as many precautions as possible. The 5000 PSI should work just fine for you. Good Luck</p>
</div>
</div>
<p><small>Powered by Yahoo! Answers</small></p>
]]></content:encoded>
			<wfw:commentRss>http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/your-questions-about-roofing-with-strength-3/feed/</wfw:commentRss>
		<slash:comments>0</slash:comments>
		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Your Questions About Roofs</title>
		<link>http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/your-questions-about-roofs-34/</link>
		<comments>http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/your-questions-about-roofs-34/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 02 May 2013 11:07:03 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>bob mcalister</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Topics]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/your-questions-about-roofs-34/</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Carol asks… The roof of my house is blue, what colour should the outside walls be to match the blue [...]]]></description>
				<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div class="pocd-faq">
<div class="question">
<div class="asker">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/plugins/pageonecontentdynamo/headshots/Carol.png" width="80" height="80" /></p>
<p class="name">Carol asks…</p>
</div>
<div class="pocd-content">
<h2>The roof of my house is blue, what colour should the outside walls be to match the blue corrugated iron roof?</h2>
<p>I built a house in The Gambia, West Africa.The colour of the windows and the roof are blue. What colour of paint is suitable for the outside walls?</p>
</div>
</div>
<p><span id="more-1234"></span>
<div class="answer">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/bob.png" /></p>
<h3>bob mcalister answers:</h3>
<p class="pocd-content">Sterling grey always goes well with blue. I own a roofing and siding co. And thats what I chose for my home. A great reflective colour of the sun as well.</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="pocd-faq">
<div class="question">
<div class="asker">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/plugins/pageonecontentdynamo/headshots/Mandy.png" width="80" height="80" /></p>
<p class="name">Mandy asks…</p>
</div>
<div class="pocd-content">
<h2>What should I do before changing the roof of my house myself?</h2>
<p>Here is my question, do I need a permission from the city to change my roof and where do I get it? Me and my two friends can do it ourselves, but I was wondering if I need a permission from the city how much is it and do I have to rent a dumpster also? Thank you anything will help.</p>
</div>
</div>
<p><!--more-->
<div class="answer">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/bob.png" /></p>
<h3>bob mcalister answers:</h3>
<p class="pocd-content">Actually your question is not clear that which city you living now. If your city commissioner give you permission or set change city roof, than you can do it.</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="pocd-faq">
<div class="question">
<div class="asker">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/plugins/pageonecontentdynamo/headshots/Laura.png" width="80" height="80" /></p>
<p class="name">Laura asks…</p>
</div>
<div class="pocd-content">
<h2>is it possible to redo a roof in sections due to economics,, do some work each pay period?</h2>
<p>Our roof (manufactured home) leaks and it is soft is some areas, but we are not well off&#8230;. Can we parse the work out over a period of time, is so how?</p>
</div>
</div>
<p><!--more-->
<div class="answer">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/bob.png" /></p>
<h3>bob mcalister answers:</h3>
<p class="pocd-content">You could do one side at a time up to the peak but it sounds like you may have more problems if the roof is soft. The sheathing may need replacing.</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="pocd-faq">
<div class="question">
<div class="asker">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/plugins/pageonecontentdynamo/headshots/William.png" width="80" height="80" /></p>
<p class="name">William asks…</p>
</div>
<div class="pocd-content">
<h2>How to stop a roof leaking water when it rains ?</h2>
<p>Its a flat roof and when it rains it starts to leak drops of water,and there is black mold growing to<br />
please help.</p>
</div>
</div>
<p><!--more-->
<div class="answer">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/bob.png" /></p>
<h3>bob mcalister answers:</h3>
<p class="pocd-content">Someone with roofing knowledge will have to walk the roof and try to find out where the water is coming in. While logic will say that is right above where the water is coming through the ceiling, that is not always the case. </p>
<p>The best way to repair the roof will depend on what you have installed and the severity of the problem. A built up roof will be different from the different kinds of membrane roof. Your best bet is to hire a reputable roofer to answer some of those questions for you.</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="pocd-faq">
<div class="question">
<div class="asker">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/plugins/pageonecontentdynamo/headshots/Betty.png" width="80" height="80" /></p>
<p class="name">Betty asks…</p>
</div>
<div class="pocd-content">
<h2>How to deal with birds nesting in the roof space?</h2>
<p>I think we may have birds nesting in our roof.  We can hear very loud chirping every morning that sounds like it&#8217;s comming from directly above the bedroom.  What&#8217;s the best way to deal with this?</p>
</div>
</div>
<p><!--more-->
<div class="answer">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/bob.png" /></p>
<h3>bob mcalister answers:</h3>
<p class="pocd-content">First you have to locate where they enter the roof. Then you have to find out what birds you have there. Then you place a bird trap, that you buy or make yourself. </p>
<p>Http://www.critterridders.com/pigeon_trap.htm</p>
<p>Or  if the hole where they enter and leave is in a  wall  you can buy or make  a trap door that acts as a one way door so the birds can leave the place but are not able to re enter.<br />
Look at a sample door for pigeons.</p>
<p>Http://www.gundogsupply.com/-3724-.html</p>
<p>http://www.gundogsonline.com/Img/EStore/Products/11233Lg.jpg</p>
</div>
</div>
<p><small>Powered by Yahoo! Answers</small></p>
]]></content:encoded>
			<wfw:commentRss>http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/your-questions-about-roofs-34/feed/</wfw:commentRss>
		<slash:comments>0</slash:comments>
		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Your Questions About Vinyl Siding Styles</title>
		<link>http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/your-questions-about-vinyl-siding-styles-5/</link>
		<comments>http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/your-questions-about-vinyl-siding-styles-5/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 01 May 2013 11:07:03 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>bob mcalister</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Topics]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/your-questions-about-vinyl-siding-styles-5/</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Michael asks… Cost to paint a Victorian in Central PA? Hi, Does anyone have any idea of what the going [...]]]></description>
				<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div class="pocd-faq">
<div class="question">
<div class="asker">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/plugins/pageonecontentdynamo/headshots/Michael.png" width="80" height="80" /></p>
<p class="name">Michael asks…</p>
</div>
<div class="pocd-content">
<h2>Cost to paint a Victorian in Central PA?</h2>
<p>Hi,</p>
<p>Does anyone have any idea of what the going rate would be to paint a Victorian in Central PA? It is a large Queen Anne style, about 60 windows, no turret.  About just over 1/2 the windows are original and are 12 panes over 1 large pane. The windows in the 1st floor are all <strong>vinyl</strong> replacements. 3 entry doors total. The porches do not need painting. </p>
<p>It will need the old paint scraped off although I believe that should be very easy. The house is currently covered with asbestos/cement shingles and the original <strong>siding</strong> underneath probably hasn&#8217;t been painted in at least 60 years. I pulled several of the asbestos shingles off and the paint on the original shingles underneath comes off with just minimal effort.</p>
<p>I am not including the cost of removing the asbestos shingles with the painting (already have that worked out). Just the actual scraping/prep work and painting.</p>
<p>Thanks in advance.</p>
</div>
</div>
<p><span id="more-1233"></span>
<div class="answer">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/bob.png" /></p>
<h3>bob mcalister answers:</h3>
<p class="pocd-content">Check with the Historic Society in your city. I have heard that in my city (Grand Rapids, Michigan), you can get some type of financial help if you intend to paint the home in original Victorian style/colors.</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="pocd-faq">
<div class="question">
<div class="asker">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/plugins/pageonecontentdynamo/headshots/Steven.png" width="80" height="80" /></p>
<p class="name">Steven asks…</p>
</div>
<div class="pocd-content">
<h2>Stone Fireplace?</h2>
<p>We have an A-Frame style home with a   blue stone fireplace running outside &amp; in. We&#8217;ve had a water leak with this fireplace since day 1. The stone extends 3&#8242; above the peak of the roof. On the back side of the outside section of the fireplace you can see white stains from water running towards the places where the fireplace joins with the roof. The water travels to the inside of the fireplace and where the sheet rock abuts with the fireplace, causing sheet rock damage. You can also see the water stains running down the inside rock. Attempts were made to solve this problem, including replacing the roof. We had several roofing firms seal the fireplace around the roof line and the top section that extends above the top roof line. We also have a large piece of slate covering the opening at the top. Our house is being <strong>vinyl</strong> sided and we have asked if a cap can attached at the top. The problem is since the stone is so hard, there doesn&#8217;t seem to be a way to secure anything to the stone.</p>
</div>
</div>
<p><!--more-->
<div class="answer">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/bob.png" /></p>
<h3>bob mcalister answers:</h3>
<p class="pocd-content">Use mortar to seal the stone, they have a poly mortar sealer that works real at Lowes.</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="pocd-faq">
<div class="question">
<div class="asker">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/plugins/pageonecontentdynamo/headshots/Betty.png" width="80" height="80" /></p>
<p class="name">Betty asks…</p>
</div>
<div class="pocd-content">
<h2>How much can vinyl siding increase the value of your home?</h2>
<p>Our new house has wood <strong>siding</strong> that has seen better days.  Rather than painting it, we thought about having it sided.  Would this increase the value? <strong>Siding</strong> is virtually maintenance free&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.Will it help the resale value in the future?</p>
</div>
</div>
<p><!--more-->
<div class="answer">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/bob.png" /></p>
<h3>bob mcalister answers:</h3>
<p class="pocd-content">People love maintenance free siding (or anything, for that matter!)<br />
You might want to look into the various styles of vinyl siding &#8211; there are various grades and some are even insulating!<br />
See the following web page:</p>
<p>http://www.building-your-green-home.com/vinyl-siding-styles.html</p>
<p>and this page on all types of siding options:</p>
<p>http://www.building-your-green-home.com/house-siding.html</p>
<p>Hope this helps.</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="pocd-faq">
<div class="question">
<div class="asker">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/plugins/pageonecontentdynamo/headshots/Daniel.png" width="80" height="80" /></p>
<p class="name">Daniel asks…</p>
</div>
<div class="pocd-content">
<h2>What can I do with left over blind slats? Any suggestions?</h2>
<p>I&#8217;ve removed the excess number of slats from faux wood blinds to match the length of my windows.  I don&#8217;t want to just put them in the trash.  I&#8217;ve thought of buying premade birdhouses and using the slats to make something like <strong>vinyl</strong> <strong>siding</strong> to go on them.  Does anyone else have any suggestions what I could use them for?  Serious replies only please.</p>
</div>
</div>
<p><!--more-->
<div class="answer">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/bob.png" /></p>
<h3>bob mcalister answers:</h3>
<p class="pocd-content">Here&#8217;s an idea, if you have a flower bed.  Use the slats to make a small bridge as decoration.  Two slats could be used as the curved section of an arch style bridge. The other slats could be the boards across the bridge.  OR you could make a covered bridge.  Be creative with it like maybe use a large stainless steel bowl as a pond.  Dig a hole just deep enough for the bowl to sit in.  Fill it with water using a little big of blue dye.  Find some small smooth stones to put around the &#8221;pond&#8221; and then put your bridge over the pond.  To continue the same theme just make a path through your flower bed with brown gravel like people use in fish tanks.  Maybe you could use Popsicle sticks as posts and a piece of one slat to make a sign.  For example a sign by the bridge that might say &#8221;Roscoe&#8217;s Pond.&#8221;   As far as flowers go that would be up to you but I would use small evergreens that you could keep cut low so people can see the pathway and the bridge.</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="pocd-faq">
<div class="question">
<div class="asker">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/plugins/pageonecontentdynamo/headshots/Lisa.png" width="80" height="80" /></p>
<p class="name">Lisa asks…</p>
</div>
<div class="pocd-content">
<h2>Where the heck can I find replacement siding for my mobile home?</h2>
<p>It is a Shultz and is 26 years old.<br />
It&#8217;s 3/8 and has groves that are 4 inches apart.<br />
I can find some <strong>siding</strong>, but the grooves are much deeper than  mine.<br />
Does anyone know?</p>
</div>
</div>
<p><!--more-->
<div class="answer">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/bob.png" /></p>
<h3>bob mcalister answers:</h3>
<p class="pocd-content">26 years old, i would just put vinyl on the whole house. You might be able to find it at a shultz dealer but it most likely has changed style by now</p>
</div>
</div>
<p><small>Powered by Yahoo! Answers</small></p>
]]></content:encoded>
			<wfw:commentRss>http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/your-questions-about-vinyl-siding-styles-5/feed/</wfw:commentRss>
		<slash:comments>0</slash:comments>
		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Your Questions About Metal Roofing Systems</title>
		<link>http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/your-questions-about-metal-roofing-systems-6/</link>
		<comments>http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/your-questions-about-metal-roofing-systems-6/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 30 Apr 2013 11:07:02 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>bob mcalister</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Topics]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/your-questions-about-metal-roofing-systems-6/</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Laura asks… How much does it cost for roof repair? I had a leak in my home when it pours [...]]]></description>
				<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div class="pocd-faq">
<div class="question">
<div class="asker">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/plugins/pageonecontentdynamo/headshots/Laura.png" width="80" height="80" /></p>
<p class="name">Laura asks…</p>
</div>
<div class="pocd-content">
<h2>How much does it cost for roof repair?</h2>
<p>I had a leak in my home when it pours down raining. A roofer came to cement the part of the roof that lifted. I still see where the flashing is lifted on the corner where it pours in my home. This roofer charged me $400 dollars to cement the roof on one side. Was this price close to cost of repair?</p>
</div>
</div>
<p><span id="more-1232"></span>
<div class="answer">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/bob.png" /></p>
<h3>bob mcalister answers:</h3>
<p class="pocd-content">When a roof begins to leak, it may need to be replaced. However, on an otherwise sturdy roof, a repair of a small area may be all that is needed.</p>
<p>Typical costs:</p>
<p>* Repairing a 10&#215;10-foot square of asphalt shingles, considered one square of roofing, runs $100-$350 using a roofing company. Repairing a few missing or broken asphalt shingles through a handyman service runs $95-$127.<br />
* Reparing wooden shingles using a roofing company for a 10&#215;10-foot square costs $210-$1,000. Repairing a couple of broken or missing shingles using a handyman can run $135-$175.</p>
<p>What should be included:</p>
<p>* Roof repair jobs should include the installation of new shingles, sealing with a roof cement product and cleanup of any old shingles and debris.</p>
<p>Additional costs:</p>
<p>* Flashing is the metal or vinyl stripping that acts either as a sealed barrier between the roofing material and chimneys or skylights, or when the roof slopes into a valley where the flashing material helps water run off into a gutter system.<br />
* When the vinyl or metal flashing that seals the edge of a skylight to the roofing material tears or is pulled away from the skylight, a leak will appear and costs $300-$500 to repair.<br />
* Valley roof flashing, which is used anywhere on a roof where slopes create a valley where water drains off, runs $15-$25 per linear foot to repair.<br />
* Faulty flashing around a chimney is priced $200-$500.</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="pocd-faq">
<div class="question">
<div class="asker">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/plugins/pageonecontentdynamo/headshots/George.png" width="80" height="80" /></p>
<p class="name">George asks…</p>
</div>
<div class="pocd-content">
<h2>Is their a way to install gutters without nailing into the fascia, Is their a better system?</h2>
<p>I was wondering if their was a better system. My Dads house in NJ  was a pain in the butt with nails pulling out and having to re nail. I heard that they have a strap that mounts under the shingle.</p>
</div>
</div>
<p><!--more-->
<div class="answer">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/bob.png" /></p>
<h3>bob mcalister answers:</h3>
<p class="pocd-content">Yes they do have a strap for them and they work well with shingles but metal roof is a different story. I would go with them.</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="pocd-faq">
<div class="question">
<div class="asker">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/plugins/pageonecontentdynamo/headshots/Donna.png" width="80" height="80" /></p>
<p class="name">Donna asks…</p>
</div>
<div class="pocd-content">
<h2>what is the Safety Canopy System that is in new Ford Suvs?</h2>
<p>I&#8217;m thinking about  getting a new Edge and i was just wondering what a Safety Canopy System is.<br />
is it just another name for side-curtain airbags?</p>
</div>
</div>
<p><!--more-->
<div class="answer">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/bob.png" /></p>
<h3>bob mcalister answers:</h3>
<p class="pocd-content">Safety Canopy™ System with Rollover Sensors<br />
A system that combines side curtain airbags and rollover sensors to help provide protection for outboard first- and second-row passengers in some vehicles and for all three rows in other select vehicles in certain side-impact and rollover situations. </p>
<p>The Safety Canopy deploys in certain side-impact collisions and in rollover events<br />
The Safety Canopy deploys from above the sheet metal roof rail between the A-pillar and C-pillar on two-row Safety Canopy vehicles, and between the A-pillar and D-pillar on three-row Safety Canopy vehicles<br />
The Safety Canopy deploys from the headliner across the side glass area to help protect first-, second- and, in certain applications, third-row occupants in outboard seating positions during a side-impact collision<br />
Inflators for the airbags are located near the roof rail between the side pillars<br />
Two side-impact sensors are located on each side of the vehicle<br />
Rollover sensors detect a potential rollover and trigger the Safety Canopy<br />
The Safety Canopy stays inflated for a longer period of time to help prevent injuries from multiple impacts or rollovers<br />
The Safety Canopy System on Fusion does not include rollover sensors</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="pocd-faq">
<div class="question">
<div class="asker">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/plugins/pageonecontentdynamo/headshots/Steven.png" width="80" height="80" /></p>
<p class="name">Steven asks…</p>
</div>
<div class="pocd-content">
<h2>How much work is it to replace the exhaust vent pipe of a natural gas appliance such as a water heater?</h2>
<p>If the appliance is in the utility closet of a one-story A-frame house (on the main floor, not basement) and the vent pipe goes straight up to the roof, what tools do you need to replace the vent pipe?  How heavy is it likely to be?</p>
</div>
</div>
<p><!--more-->
<div class="answer">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/bob.png" /></p>
<h3>bob mcalister answers:</h3>
<p class="pocd-content">Thats pretty easy.  The hardest part is getting to the mounts for the vent that may be in the wall and could be set every few feet.  The vent sections are not that heavey, but if you try to move the whole thing all at once, you may have trouble by yourself.  For the tools, you will need a drill, some mounting strips (i used the metal plumber mounts.  It comes in a spool and you just cut off what you need as you need it, mount with a few screws and attach to your vent &#8211; a cutter like tin snips if you use this type of mount) Most of the time, the vent sections have a linking system to let the sections pop together, but check and make sure; you may need a gromit gun if the sections to self-attach.  Thats the basics for hanging the vent, but you may need more tools if you have to dig into your wall.  If thats the case, you will need some tools for cutting and repairing drywall / plaster.  Take special care attaching to the water heater.  Any leak there could leave you with a carbonmonoxide problem.</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="pocd-faq">
<div class="question">
<div class="asker">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/plugins/pageonecontentdynamo/headshots/Helen.png" width="80" height="80" /></p>
<p class="name">Helen asks…</p>
</div>
<div class="pocd-content">
<h2>To what extent do garden plants &amp; trees absorb environmental toxins?</h2>
<p>If there is leaking sewage from your neighbors, will your edible plants like lettace, rhubarb and fruit trees absorb the toxins and make you sick?  And what is the effect of coal ashes, which have heavy metals?     How do you know the food you buy is free of problems like this?</p>
</div>
</div>
<p><!--more-->
<div class="answer">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/bob.png" /></p>
<h3>bob mcalister answers:</h3>
<p class="pocd-content">Plants can absorb toxins and store them. That is why dissolved toxins are so dangerous. They can be spread with the water or through the fish and concentrated in carnivores higher up the food chain.<br />
Sewage sludge and food safety as defined by federal regulations.</p>
<p>Http://www.iatp.org/foodandhealth/showFile.cfm?refID=31700Keepeing</p>
<p>Many materials spayed on crops leave residual quantities in the soil for plants to take up. Not every non-organic crop ever becomes tainted with questionable chemicals but some do but there is no way to tell which ones. </p>
<p>Http://www.faqs.org/nutrition/Foo-Hea/Food-Safety.html</p>
<p>The soils pH at 6.5 -7 has shown crop plants absorb less of the metals. Soil nutrients are most available at this pH so the plants will grow well.</p>
<p>Http://books.google.com/books?id=gJhgCQF2wPkC&#038;pg=PA156&#038;lpg=PA156&#038;dq=vegetable+plant+absorb+sewage&#038;source=web&#038;ots=wHboxkqeU5&#038;sig=ZE_YgKpDIabXMTOouWNh7Esqr80</p>
<p>The best way to avoid worrying might be to create raised beds or convert the roof to support one of the roof top growing systems that are so popular in Europe. There are a few companies in the USA also. When you grow your own you know what went in the crop. This way you could enjoy fresh vegetables and can the extra. Home made chow chow is the best. </p>
<p>Http://www.baylocalize.org/projects/rooftop/report/neighborhood/assessment</p>
<p>http://www.greenroofs.com/</p>
<p>Inspiration page<br />
http://www.ecogeek.org/content/view/902/</p>
</div>
</div>
<p><small>Powered by Yahoo! Answers</small></p>
]]></content:encoded>
			<wfw:commentRss>http://metal-roofing-contractors.com/your-questions-about-metal-roofing-systems-6/feed/</wfw:commentRss>
		<slash:comments>0</slash:comments>
		</item>
	</channel>
</rss>
